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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-16-2007, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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Throttle plates

This should probably not be an issue...but it is on Orleans. After pulling the carbs three times now, I was fiddling around to make sure everything was "just so" before I go putting 'em back where they belong. (Perhaps) oddly, the throttle plates are not seated the same. On the rear carb, the plate - at rest - sits forward about 1mm; and the front carb plate - at rest - is resting firmly within the body.

Is this normal? 'Cause it doesn't look right. And if it's not normal, how do I get the plates to be even-up? I pulled the circlip off the rod on the front plate, but that did nothing 'cept leave the two washers exposed to fall out.

Thanks, anyone!

C
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-16-2007, 09:55 PM
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Haven't looked at this yet, but could it be the sync adjustment is way out?

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-16-2007, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
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I tried moving the sync screw to see if the rear plate moved, but I didn't see anything noticeable. In theory, I would think that once the plates are in line, they would stay in line...and if they don't, there's gotta be some screw or mechanism somewhere right around there that's subject to being thunked. But I sure can't see it.

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-17-2007, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
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For anyone who might be curious - or who might have his/her carbs off and wants to get a good sync - there are a couple of steps to this.

First, turn the idle adjust screw (which impacts front and rear carbs) until both plates are visibly open. In my case, the rear plate was up about 1mm, the front one firmly up against the housing. Turning the idle adjust screw in eventually put the rear plate up about 2-3 mm, front plate up about 1 mm. But at least both were clearly open.

Second, turn the carb sync screw until both plates are about even. REM that the sync screw only affects the rear carb - so turning the screw allows you to adjust that plate back to about where the front plate is. For fine-tuning, place a small item - paperclip, thin wire, etc. - between each plate and the housing, and then turn the carb sync screw until both plates are seated against the object.

Then, once the carbs are back on the bike, sync'ing 'em should be a matter of degrees.

C
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-17-2007, 03:26 PM
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That is great inofrmation Cindy. If I ever do my Carbs I will keep that in mind.

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-17-2007, 06:47 PM
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Great tip Cindy !
You are becoming quite a carb info specialist !!

I was trying to get a VN750.com logo made up, it's not going too good as of yet. Maybe I'll take a break from that and see what kind of "Carb Removal/Rebuild Extraordinaire" design I can make up for ya!


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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-17-2007, 09:00 PM Thread Starter
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Ha ha...third time's a charm, I hope. I still haven't mastered the art of getting the carbs out of the block and back in without a whole lot of swearing, but I'm beginning to think that that should be a step described in the Clymer's manual. "Before attempting to reinstall the carbs, warm the air around the engine block with a hearty _([email protected]#$_(*@#+)*@#$+). That should make the intake boots more pliable and installation of the carbs easier."

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