What is Throttle "Play"? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-20-2013, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
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What is Throttle "Play"?

Hey Guys!

Forgive me, but I've got someone coming over for dinner, so I don't have time to do a lot of research. What is throttle "play" exactly? I mean, left by itself, there is some slight movement if you jiggle the grip lightly with a finger tip--is that it?

Or is it a degree of play in the *twist* of the grip itself?

My throttle didn't close on the way home from work today a couple times. I engined braked, turned the idle low, and high rev'd a lower gear than go up one.

I did try to adjust the play like the manual says, but I'm not sure what "play" should be/is? Now it doesn't want to close the throttle, no matter how I adjust the cables.

Sorry I'm rushing...my guest just arrived!
Thoughts? Thanks!!
-Anth

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-20-2013, 06:13 PM
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I could be totally wrong, but here is how I have mine set. From closed to barely adding throttle is about 3mm or so of movement. That essentially is just a wiggle like you said. That's how I have mine and I am completely used to it now.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-20-2013, 06:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anth View Post
Hey Guys!

Forgive me, but I've got someone coming over for dinner, so I don't have time to do a lot of research. What is throttle "play" exactly? I mean, left by itself, there is some slight movement if you jiggle the grip lightly with a finger tip--is that it?

Or is it a degree of play in the *twist* of the grip itself?

My throttle didn't close on the way home from work today a couple times. I engined braked, turned the idle low, and high rev'd a lower gear than go up one.

I did try to adjust the play like the manual says, but I'm not sure what "play" should be/is? Now it doesn't want to close the throttle, no matter how I adjust the cables.

Sorry I'm rushing...my guest just arrived!
Thoughts? Thanks!!
-Anth
With the throttle grip closed you should be able to move the grip about an !/8 of an inch in either direction. When adjusting the cables do the decelerator cable first until you have this play. Then adjust the accelerator cable.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-20-2013, 06:22 PM
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One of your cables might be cutting into its sleeve, which makes it stick. The other probability would be the throttle sticking at the carbs.

Sometimes changing the cable routing will make them stick.

What you can do is detach the cables and see if the throttle is working fine without them, by manually pulling at the place they attach at the carbs and seeing if it closes back by itself.

If it all works right without the cables, the safest bet is to replace them.

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-20-2013, 06:29 PM
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Play in the throttle is really just adjusting the cable so there is a detectable amount of movement when twisting the throttle before it effects the motor.

This is usually done because turning the bars from full left to full right can bend the cable and effect the motor (increase engine RPMs). To avoid this from I occouring... One adjusts the cable so it has a tiny bit of slop in it before twisting the throttle causes a reaction.

Best way to do this is to actually check this by putting the bike on the centerstand, starting the bike and seeing if the RPMs go up (or down) when you swing the front wheel from left to right. Basicly you want the cable as small as you can get it without the RPMs changing when you do this.

In the Vulcsn you also want to make sure the return cable closes the twist grip all the way when you let go of it no matter where the bars are turned.

The manual lists a safe "gap" for the cable, but this might be looser than it needs to be (or sometimes tighter) so this is why I always adjust the cables with the engine running....

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-20-2013, 09:49 PM
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Actually I have the play adjusted out of my bike, had more problems with her when their was play in the cables. Caused me to be at a uncomfortable position when at crusing speed.

As to throttle return, mines always been slow on the return. However since the bike has a return cable that pushes the throttle close I've just got used to closing the throttle manually. Just a querk of the bike I'm used to.

As a thought u could try fitting a external spring onto your carb. That should give u a bit more snap on the return

Keep her rubber side down.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-21-2013, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamesoct1990 View Post
Actually I have the play adjusted out of my bike, had more problems with her when their was play in the cables. Caused me to be at a uncomfortable position when at crusing speed.

As to throttle return, mines always been slow on the return. However since the bike has a return cable that pushes the throttle close I've just got used to closing the throttle manually. Just a querk of the bike I'm used to.

As a thought u could try fitting a external spring onto your carb. That should give u a bit more snap on the return
It's your bike and your life but I think you have a very dangerous situation. The cables should be adjusted so they work properly. JMO

JM2001

" Loud Pipes Risk Rights "

2001 Vulcan 750
marbled
TOC upgrade on ACCT
Air/fuel mixture set to 2 1/2 out
rectifier relocated
splines lubed
iridiums
decals removed
upgraded mirrors
Pic up coil mod done
degoated
All LED lighting
Upgraded Mosfet rectifier
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-21-2013, 08:39 AM
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One of the main problems for a sticking throttle is the way the cables are routed under the radiator cap. If one of the tips of the cap is wedged against the cables it will cause binding. If the throttle is binding, take off the right tank cover and move the cable ( or cables) away from the cap tip. You can immediately see how it affects the throttle.

JM2001

" Loud Pipes Risk Rights "

2001 Vulcan 750
marbled
TOC upgrade on ACCT
Air/fuel mixture set to 2 1/2 out
rectifier relocated
splines lubed
iridiums
decals removed
upgraded mirrors
Pic up coil mod done
degoated
All LED lighting
Upgraded Mosfet rectifier

Last edited by JM2001; 06-21-2013 at 10:30 AM.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-21-2013, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
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Guys, once again, great insights. Thanks! After our guest left I went out to the garage and took your collective thoughts and wrench and went to work. I also looked up a couple YouTube videos on lubricating & adjusting the throttle cables. 30 minutes later and I was back in business!

I've had a few quirky issues like this since I got the bike a couple weeks, but I think it just needed some TLC. The PO had it for only 60 miles--he bought it for his son from a pawn shop, but his son turned his nose up at a it (wanted a sport bike instead--no surprise.) Who knows how little care it had before that...

Anyway, 120 miles on the odo from me so far, and (knock on chrome) it's idling better than ever. :-)

Muchas gracias

'01 VN750
All stock except for the SpitFire windshield
Louisville, KY
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-21-2013, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamesoct1990 View Post
Actually I have the play adjusted out of my bike, had more problems with her when their was play in the cables. Caused me to be at a uncomfortable position when at crusing speed.

As to throttle return, mines always been slow on the return. However since the bike has a return cable that pushes the throttle close I've just got used to closing the throttle manually. Just a querk of the bike I'm used to.

As a thought u could try fitting a external spring onto your carb. That should give u a bit more snap on the return
Quote:
Originally Posted by JM2001 View Post
It's your bike and your life but I think you have a very dangerous situation. The cables should be adjusted so they work properly. JMO

+1 JM..

if the cables are too tight (read that as too little or no slack), the throttle will not return properly.

I have maybe 2-3 mm of movement in my throttle.. works free as a could be.
when I adjusted mine, I was watching the cables at the carb end to see how much movement there was... there is an ever so slight amount of slack that can be seen there.

also, the return cable is not a push cable if I recall, it connects to the throttle linkages on the opposite side as the opening cable does.. therefore it pulls the throttle shut if your primary (opening) cable fails, or you close it by the grip faster than the spring on the linkage can
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