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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-04-2006, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
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Dealer Carb Overhaul

I just had my carbs overhauled at the dealer (too much work, not enough time). Expensive, but hey...I want to ride. I picked up the bike this morning.

I noticed several things are different:
1. Rougher idle - not terribly rough, but not the smooth idle I had a year ago. After temp gauge moved into the operating range, I removed all choke and the bike died. Perhaps idle was set too low, so I raised the idle and it doesn't die now, but not as smooth as I would like.
2. Choke now appears to work as it should. Full choke, no throttle and the bike starts. I reduce choke as it warms up and reducing the choke drops RPM. That's good.
3. I have to roll the throttle back quite a bit to shift or the engine RPM climbs when I disengage the cluth. I didn't have to do that before. Is this "normal" to have to roll the throttle to idle before shifting?
4. I get the occasional backfire when downshifting and letting the engine brake the bike.

Thanks in advance for your expertise.

Texas Cruiser
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-04-2006, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas Cruiser
I just had my carbs overhauled at the dealer (too much work, not enough time). Expensive, but hey...I want to ride. I picked up the bike this morning.

I noticed several things are different:
1. Rougher idle - not terribly rough, but not the smooth idle I had a year ago. After temp gauge moved into the operating range, I removed all choke and the bike died. Perhaps idle was set too low, so I raised the idle and it doesn't die now, but not as smooth as I would like.
2. Choke now appears to work as it should. Full choke, no throttle and the bike starts. I reduce choke as it warms up and reducing the choke drops RPM. That's good.
3. I have to roll the throttle back quite a bit to shift or the engine RPM climbs when I disengage the cluth. I didn't have to do that before. Is this "normal" to have to roll the throttle to idle before shifting?
4. I get the occasional backfire when downshifting and letting the engine brake the bike.

Thanks in advance for your expertise.

Texas Cruiser
For the idle, I'd run a healthy dose of Seafoam through it. They might have knocked some junk loose and didn't get it all out.

The bike should run fine with the idle set at 1100 rpm when the bike's warmed up.

If you have the idle set too high, I can see where it would act wierd when you shift. Reset the idle.

Maybe the carbs need to be synched. It should have been done after they put the carbs in but you never know.

If it doesn't run right with the idle set correctly and after running some Seafoam through it, you should take it back and have them look it over again.

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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-04-2006, 07:12 PM
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you may also wanna check the cable adjustments on the choke to make sure when you have it off, it is really off, and also make sure that the throttle isnt too tight. But to be honest, the idle issue sounds like they messed up shimming or something.

also the popping is somewhat normal. before your carbs were gunked some. so at idle and decel, you run lean, so no pop, but now it may run a lil rich (which is normal).

i suggest a normal check out on the carbs. this includes seafoam, syncing, draining the bowls, check the boots (yes makes a difference), check the cable adjustments, after all that, then adjust the idle. also i would check the air filters, when was the last time they were cleaned? I am in dallas and drive by construction, so i clean mine every 6-9k miles.

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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-04-2006, 08:20 PM
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Man good are getting harder and harder to find.You would think with the training they get at the service schools that Im sure that they send them to that they could make your bike run like new.I used to be a small engine mechanic and that motor I worked on ran like it was brand new I just dont understand.........
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-04-2006, 09:16 PM
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I don't know if I'd do anything yet, except to take the bike back and tell them that it's not right. And, you don't expect to be charged to have them fix their mistake.
The expense of having a (authorized?) dealer do it should mean it's done right, the first time.


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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-04-2006, 10:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hyperbuzzin
I don't know if I'd do anything yet, except to take the bike back and tell them that it's not right. And, you don't expect to be charged to have them fix their mistake.
The expense of having a (authorized?) dealer do it should mean it's done right, the first time.
I agree

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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-05-2006, 09:38 AM
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Quote:
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I agree

The shifting problem does remind me of the idle. I've had that problem before, and yeah, it's a pain. Drop the idle and it dies. I just cranked on the air/idle mixture screws until it lined out. That was, of course, a SOHC4 Honda, and not the Vulcan.

Take it back and complain. If you don't, it only gives more credit to the mechanic. I was proud of the lack of returns I got, which gave me a pretty good reputation, but I couldn't help but wonder how many people took their stuff to other mechanics after I was done.

I know it happened a couple times, but those people couldn't understand when I told them that Craftsman power equipment is garbage to begin with, and not worth repair.

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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-05-2006, 05:21 PM
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And that would be power equipment, not tools. Although I did go through several 13mm sockets taking off the head bolts of my last car. But they were replaced for free.

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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-06-2006, 08:46 AM
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backfire......intake leak at the boots
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-06-2006, 09:23 AM
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Engine not wanting to throttle down during shifts could be badly adjusted throttle cables, or vacuum leaks. Rougn idle could be vacuum leaks and/or carbs out of sync. I'd be back there as soon as they open!

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