One Piece Airbox/Surge Tank Removal-no cutting - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-14-2013, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
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Lightbulb One Piece Airbox/Surge Tank Removal-no cutting

This is much quicker than the hour or so some have reported for sawing the box into pieces to remove it.

The key to removing the airbox in one piece is unplugging the wiring harness and pulling the harness out of the frame. This makes just enough free space for the box to move up in the frame and clear the front head. With a few more steps you can then wiggle box out of it's nest.

1) Remove the usual intake plumbing for carb removal, including the two oval tubes at the front of the airbox connecting to the ears.

2) Remove the crankcase vent hose at the lower left front of the airbox. You can remove the smaller drain hose off the lower front right but I was able to leave it on the box, just un-clipped it from the frame.

3a) Remove the one bolt holding the bracket for the six wiring plugs beside the front ignition coil so it's free to move upward. 3b) Pull right front plug and move it to the left side.

4) Remove one bolt holding the coolant tube on the rear head, wiggle it out of the head carefully, it has an o-ring. Also removed the thermostat and hoses.

5) Remove the air injection hoses from the engine and airbox, one vacuum line from the rear carb, then pull the valve and hoses out together. I'm doing coasters so this isn't going back on. Perfect time to do coasters!

6) Unplug the wiring harness at the rear, battery box, rear ignition coil, etc. Unlock the headlight trigger wire and pull it from it's plug, this wire stays with the stator wires. It's impossible to reconnect the harness wrong unless you really try. Wires on bullet connectors are color coded and plugs only fit in one spot. The only two to remember are on the rear coil, grey on bottom, red on top. Remove the harness straps as you go, then pull the harness out of the frame. I left the relay connected to the harness since it was dangling free.

7) With the right hand, lift the front of the airbox and slide it back until it hits the frame tab at the rear. With the left hand, lift the rear up, flexing the tank slightly, while applying rearward pressure with the right hand at the wishbone of the frame. I just wrapped my hand around the frame used my fingertips to push back. Wiggle the rear of tank with rearward pressure from the front and the airbox pops right out.

I kept the airbox intact in case I don't earshave, but had no idea it would be so quick or easy. With all the free space, I can't imagine not earshaving now. And with all that junk off the top of the engine, it may just run a bit cooler, besides making carb work easier.

This is really only adding 2 or 3 steps to the airbox removal process, the harness, rear head coolant tube, and the front electrical bracket. I have little doubt I can reconnect the harness in five minutes. Just a bit of extra work, but we know our bikes are put together like clocks, or nuclear subs, anyway.

Did this from memory, so if anyone sees a mistake, feel free to point it out and I'll correct.

Last edited by Spockster; 04-18-2013 at 10:25 PM. Reason: plug wire
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post #2 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-14-2013, 10:27 PM
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Sounds a lot easier than fighting with a sawzall cutting up the airbox. Great post!
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post #3 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-14-2013, 10:51 PM
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Well, I just did the ear shave and while cutting out the airbox wasn't fun... it only took me about 15 minutes using a flexible saw blade with tape wrapped over one end.

I'm sure this way works... but for me it seems mire cumbersome. But to each their own and heck, nothing wrong with having another option.

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post #4 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-15-2013, 12:01 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FoolAmI View Post
Sounds a lot easier than fighting with a sawzall cutting up the airbox. Great post!
Thank you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris32250 View Post
...
I'm sure this way works... but for me it seems mire cumbersome. ...
It looks like a lot in print, but it really took a lot longer to lay out the post than to do the work.

In my situation, coasters and a stator job, it just added a few minutes.
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post #5 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-15-2013, 01:35 AM
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Thanks Spockster.

I was wanting to keep my air box intact when I did my ear shave on the off chance I ever decided to go back and reverse it.

......I'd rather wake up in the middle of nowhere then in any city on earth.

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post #6 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-15-2013, 01:43 AM Thread Starter
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You're welcome Ndr.

Made an edit at - 3b) Move right front plug wire to left side.
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post #7 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-15-2013, 06:10 AM
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Found it was super easy to remove front valve cover for just a little.extra room.
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post #8 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-15-2013, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
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Didn't think of that. But I'd hate to break the gasket and have to buy that right now. The warden says this project is getting out of hand , but doesn't understand the joys of riding.
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post #9 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-15-2013, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
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Thanks Spockster.

I was wanting to keep my air box intact when I did my ear shave on the off chance I ever decided to go back and reverse it.
^^ My thoughts exactly.

I haven't decided if I even want to do it yet.

Thanks for the write-up Spockster



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post #10 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-15-2013, 01:48 PM
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If you are careful you won't break the gasket. It doesn't even really move if you do it right.
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