For those that miss Gypsy's website.... - Page 3 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Carbs and Fuel System
From the gas tank to the carbs
All fuel system discussion

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post #21 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-24-2009, 08:51 AM
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Gypsy:

If you ever read this, I want to thank you for sharing your wisdom, experience, and thoughts. All of it has been beneficial.

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
_____________________________________________
"Black Beauty"
1989 VN750 acquired December, 2008, 6,711 miles
Currently 23,298 miles

Old Blue
2001 Honda CMX250 Rebel acquired July, 2008

1987 VN750 project bike, acquired August, 2009, 33,000 miles and balancer sticking out of the case, currently awaiting attention and parts
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post #22 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-24-2009, 11:05 AM
 
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What does it mean, She's moved on and started a new life? No more motorbiking??
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post #23 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-15-2009, 04:26 PM
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I remember gYpSy. She and I corresponded by email a couple of times. I always wondered what happened to her. She felt the same way as I do about a lot of things. We has a mutual friend, the late Gene Berg, the worlds greatest air cooled VW builder, mechanic, tuner, and racer. I also used to drag race a VW bug, now I race an '85 Camaro S/ST. Jerry.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike

Last edited by VN750Rider/Jerry; 12-15-2009 at 04:49 PM.
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post #24 of 37 (permalink) Old 03-11-2010, 10:55 PM
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(More of a misplaced post right now I believe. )

Dianna
Conway, AR
Patriot Guard Rider
2000 VN750 Sere (Serendipity)
1990 GL1500 (Ole Blue)
1986 VN750 EVie (project bike, heavy custom)
VROC # 11628 / 25000-H
ARVROC # 12 Coordinator and Crowd Control
OKVROC # 18 (H)
TNVROC # 45 (H)
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post #25 of 37 (permalink) Old 05-07-2010, 03:50 PM
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Correction - Regulator/Rectifier not grounded through casee

gYpSy Michelle, I have learned a lot from your website, and will be coming back for future reference I am sure.

I have found one error in your #3 tech article on "Undercharged Battery", part of which is copied here. The bold and color emphasis are mine.

Quote: "I suspected a dying alternator/regulator and the battery wasn't being charged consistently--that would explain the weak battery and missing due to low voltage.. I addressed the weak battery condition by suspecting either a faulty battery or poor charging flow to the battery. In all cases, (running or not) the voltage tested fine as per the Kawa Service Manual—12.5 volts without engine running/13.5-15 volts revving engine to 4000 rpm (at the battery terminals). It wasn't until a friend suggested a similar problem he once had with an old Harley and he ran a "jumper wire" from the metal regulator case (under battery) to a good ground (frame) that his problems went away. I figured what's to loose in doing so, so I tried it and my battery cranking amps suddenly worked like a miracle! Quite noticably, a battery that once only cranked the starter 3 trys with a great deal of effort, now spins the starter into outer space (!) and I can now run all my light accesories without that idling fear of the battery being undercharged. I simply ran a 12 gauge wire with eye connector ends, from the regulator fastener (bolt head and I put a star washer underneath it) up to the frame ground fastener tab for the battery. Difference of night and day....!

Corrosion over time has a way of "insulating" any electrical connection, and the ground side is completely dependent on clean connections. Since the regulator on the Vulcan 750 is dependent on good ground conduction *through the battery box*, it's no wonder with all that tortuous sheetmetal and the fact that Kawasaki uses a smooth surfaced fastener flanged bolt at the regulator mount, it's entirely possible that if your bike has seen some goodly miles, this may help you too!" Close Quote

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
After double checking with an open thread on the electrical forum, and a response from lance328 to confirm my facts, I would like to make a correction to this article.

The regulator/rectifier IS NOT GROUNDED THROUGH THE CASE. It is grounded through the black wire in the wiring harness connection.

It seems to me that the improved electrical performance must be due to a better ground connection after taking the battery ground cable bolt out and reattaching it to the frame, or even the redundant ground to the frame via the jumper wire. But the fact remains that the r/r case does not ground to the frame.

Respectfully, OlHoss.

Gordon

1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

H-D windshield
Relocated R/R
MF-AGM battery
Fiamm Freeway Blaster horns
F&S luggage rack and engine guard
Kury Offset Hiway pegs
July 13, 2016, Riding on the DARKSIDE now, Classic Radial 165/80-15


TOP TEN THINGS A NEW RIDER/OWNER SHOULD DO. Click on link.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/11-vn750-general-discussion/9127-top-ten-items-you-would-suggest-new-owner-do-his-new-ride.html
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post #26 of 37 (permalink) Old 05-07-2010, 03:54 PM
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Correction - Regulator/Rectifier not grounded through case

gYpSy Michelle, I have learned a lot from your website, and will be coming back for future reference I am sure.

I have found one error in your #3 tech article on "Undercharged Battery", part of which is copied here. The bold and color emphasis are mine.

Quote: "I suspected a dying alternator/regulator and the battery wasn't being charged consistently--that would explain the weak battery and missing due to low voltage.. I addressed the weak battery condition by suspecting either a faulty battery or poor charging flow to the battery. In all cases, (running or not) the voltage tested fine as per the Kawa Service Manual—12.5 volts without engine running/13.5-15 volts revving engine to 4000 rpm (at the battery terminals). It wasn't until a friend suggested a similar problem he once had with an old Harley and he ran a "jumper wire" from the metal regulator case (under battery) to a good ground (frame) that his problems went away. I figured what's to loose in doing so, so I tried it and my battery cranking amps suddenly worked like a miracle! Quite noticably, a battery that once only cranked the starter 3 trys with a great deal of effort, now spins the starter into outer space (!) and I can now run all my light accesories without that idling fear of the battery being undercharged. I simply ran a 12 gauge wire with eye connector ends, from the regulator fastener (bolt head and I put a star washer underneath it) up to the frame ground fastener tab for the battery. Difference of night and day....!

Corrosion over time has a way of "insulating" any electrical connection, and the ground side is completely dependent on clean connections. Since the regulator on the Vulcan 750 is dependent on good ground conduction *through the battery box*, it's no wonder with all that tortuous sheetmetal and the fact that Kawasaki uses a smooth surfaced fastener flanged bolt at the regulator mount, it's entirely possible that if your bike has seen some goodly miles, this may help you too!" Close Quote

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
After double checking with an open thread on the electrical forum, and a response from lance328 to confirm my facts, I would like to make a correction to this article.

The regulator/rectifier IS NOT GROUNDED THROUGH THE CASE. It is grounded through the black wire in the wiring harness connection.

It seems to me that the improved electrical performance must be due to a better ground connection after taking the battery ground cable bolt out and reattaching it to the frame, or even the redundant ground to the frame via the jumper wire. But the fact remains that the r/r case does not ground to the frame.

Respectfully, OlHoss.

Gordon

1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

H-D windshield
Relocated R/R
MF-AGM battery
Fiamm Freeway Blaster horns
F&S luggage rack and engine guard
Kury Offset Hiway pegs
July 13, 2016, Riding on the DARKSIDE now, Classic Radial 165/80-15


TOP TEN THINGS A NEW RIDER/OWNER SHOULD DO. Click on link.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9127
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post #27 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-05-2010, 10:26 PM
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Thx.
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post #28 of 37 (permalink) Old 11-13-2010, 02:28 AM
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2011 Suzuki VSTROM DL650 with ABS Purchased Jan 28 now with 39,000miles WRECKED JAN 12 ,2013
"To strive, to seek, to find, not to yield."
05 Vulcan 750 26,050miles *Traded in*
Ventura guards
MadStadt mount
Givi windshield/Heated grips
Backoff
Riderbeads
Givi 52 topcase
Pat Walsh Crash bars skid plate
OEM centerstand
Headlight modulator
Battery tender
Aquarium thermometer with forward probe mount
Admore LED Lighting/Givi E36N panniers
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post #29 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-03-2010, 10:53 AM
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Garage
Thanks for the correction Gordon. I agree that good amperage to the starter requires a solid grounding of the frame to the battery. I definitely saw a difference in the "life" of the bike after cleaning and tightening the ground points. I was at one point having the same type issue. I think maybe that should be a pointer given as a necessary thing to do to the new folks here, same as telling them to get a gel battery.

~~C8> Ratt
________________________
'91 VN750 - Cosmic Splendor/Candy Wine
Done: Coastered, .020 ign., Iridiums, VM
Plexistar II, MCCT's, Relocated MOSFET
Next: LED's
Will Do: Horns, Shave(maybe)
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post #30 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-23-2011, 09:22 PM
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Pretty bike!
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