POR-15 and drying the tank - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-23-2006, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
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POR-15 and drying the tank

Hey,

I finally got tired of fighting eBay finding a new tank for my VN700, and got ahold of the POR-15 heavy duty tank kit. (This was recommended to me on one of the forums...Either here, over at VROC or at kawasakimotorcycle.com) Of course, this week, now that I have it, has been busier than ever, and I have been getting home late enough not to have a lot of time to work on it...

I was wondering if any has any experience with POR-15 here, because I have a couple of questions. The key secret I took away from earlier discussions with folks on the forum and the folks that sold it to me was to follow the instructions to the letter. The end of step 2 says

Code:
Hose the tank out very thoroughly. let the tank dry. Pour the Metal Ready into a dry tank.
Step 3 says

Code:
...In order to ge the tank completely dry, you must blow warm air into it. No tank will dry out on the inside by itself. The only way to do this is to use forced air. THE TANK MUST BE COMPLETELY DRY BEFORE SEALING. SEALER WILL NOT STICK TO A DAMP OR WET TANK.
1. First issue (obviously) is drying the tank. What is the best way to accomplish this? I have been thinking about this for a couple of days. My wife has a blowdryer, but she doesn't "want it ruined" What is the best way to dry the gas tank, and what is the best indication that it is? I was thinking about buying a cheap blowdryer and some kind of cheap tubing to get the hot air into the tank...Someone please tell me they have a better idea...

2. Any other caveats and gotchas I need to be aware of in sealing this tank?

Thanks,
--Storm

Storm16
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-23-2006, 02:20 PM
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Here in South Texas all you would have to do is let a fan blow into it as the air here is already hot!!.
You could probably use the cheap blow dryer trick or if you have access to a compressor, you could use that as well.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-23-2006, 02:23 PM
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Hair dryer works the best. You can put that nozzle right nest to the tank opening. Buy a cheepy !

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-23-2006, 04:35 PM
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The hair dryer sounds like a good idea.
After letting it blow into the tank for awhile, I'd suggest giving the tank a few good shakes (to move around any spots of wettness that might be stuck in the corners of the tank) Maybe do this atleast a couple of times.
There's also something in the Vulcan Verses about using alcohol to help with getting ALL the water out.
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Originally Posted by Vulcan Verses
The alcohol helps dry out the last of the water left after draining that.


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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-23-2006, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hyperbuzzin
The hair dryer sounds like a good idea.
After letting it blow into the tank for awhile, I'd suggest giving the tank a few good shakes (to move around any spots of wettness that might be stuck in the corners of the tank) Maybe do this atleast a couple of times.
There's also something in the Vulcan Verses about using alcohol to help with getting ALL the water out.
I'm just not sure what effect the alcohol would have on the rest of the treatment. I didn't want to take the chance on the alcohol leaving a residue or causing the por-15 not to adhere to the metal.

Storm16
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-23-2006, 11:33 PM
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You would need to get real alcohol, not the isopropyl from walmart. It tends to have glycerine in it as a skin lubricant. Go to a liquor store, and get some PGA.

As to the hot air, do you know any politicians?

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-24-2006, 11:38 PM
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May I sugest you remove the petcock and fuel sending unit to give you access to all parts of the tank, It will also dry better because you now have three holes in it to help air circulation.

You can then use compressed air or reverse your shop vac to blow, or use a power blower all of these blow warm air from the heat of the motor, (except the air compressor).

FYI, the power blower is also a great bike dryer after a wash.

Hope this helps, and PLEASE let us know how you like the coating, and details of the procedure.....

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-26-2006, 11:46 AM
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What are the problems with the tank? rust I assume? Flakey rust or just brown coating?

I used the acid method and then treated the tank with phosphoric acid (navel jelly) but had to rinse the tank afterward, flushing with water hose to remove the residue from the navel jelly. I had removed all the stuff off the tank, which I'm sure you have also. (petcock, fuel sensor, gas cap) I used an older blow dryer of my wife's, and used it on the warm, not hot setting. I duct taped it to the gas cap hole and sat the tank on it's side for a while, then on it's end, then other side, you get the picture. I let it run for over an hour just to make sure it was dry.

My tank was crusty inside and the acid method restored it to like new. It still is silver inside after nearly a year.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-30-2006, 12:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fergy
What are the problems with the tank? rust I assume? Flakey rust or just brown coating?

I used the acid method and then treated the tank with phosphoric acid (navel jelly) but had to rinse the tank afterward, flushing with water hose to remove the residue from the navel jelly. I had removed all the stuff off the tank, which I'm sure you have also. (petcock, fuel sensor, gas cap) I used an older blow dryer of my wife's, and used it on the warm, not hot setting. I duct taped it to the gas cap hole and sat the tank on it's side for a while, then on it's end, then other side, you get the picture. I let it run for over an hour just to make sure it was dry.

My tank was crusty inside and the acid method restored it to like new. It still is silver inside after nearly a year.

Actually, I'm not sure what the problem is. Originally, the tank was leaking at the base (rust), and the previous owner brazed it and repainted. I got the bike, and it was still leaking at the base, beween the flange with the bolt hole and the bottom of the tank. I sealed with JB Weld.

The summer was too busy or hot to work on the bike (I know you Texans would say "That ain't hot..." ) with vacations, insane work schedules etc. So it sat with about 1/3 or a tank of gas and SeaFoam in it. I got a chance to go for a quick ride, I filled it up, and noticed the carbs were not right. So I pulled the air cleaner and was blasting with carb cleaner, and noticed a puff of smoke coming from the left side about every 10-20 seconds. I went over there and saw that gas was leaking on the exhaust pipe. At first, I thought it might be the petcock, but when I pulled the tank and drained it, I saw the paint was bubbled by the front left mounting flange.

I dremelled all of the paint off, but could not get the tank to leak again, nor could I see the source of the leak. So I decided at this point, sealing it from the inside was kinda like nuking it from orbit: Its the only way to be sure. Got my POR15 kit and have been workin to get it done.

--Storm

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-30-2006, 05:40 PM
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A friend of mine did the Por 15 treatment to his bike ( Yamaha 850 ) and he taped the hair drier to the filler neck ( with EVERYTHING removed ). But he left it for a "FEW" hours... he is kind of anal about being sure and all! I believe he also tipped and turned it as he went. When he did get to put in sealer... he said it did not seem like enough.... but he waited like the directions said!! and sure enough, the stuff puffed up and sealed the tank real good!! He even waited longer than what was called for before filling with gas.... just to be sure!

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