Getting rid of the air box !!! - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-14-2006, 09:02 AM Thread Starter
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Getting rid of the air box !!!

Ok, well I have the engine out and I want to get rid of the air box and ears.
Anyone know the mods I have to make to the carbs and where those hoses should be re-routed to. Also open to suggestions as to what else to check or
mod while the engine is out. TIA
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-14-2006, 09:56 AM
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Some helpful info from the VN750 Yahoo group files

Parts list for SCP Vulcan 750 Ear-shave kit.

1 set of SCP coasters for VN750
1 EMGO Crankcase breather,
p/n: 14-20900
1 UNI Podkit high performance foam air filter kit,
p/n: PK-92 (2-1/4 2-1/8 in / 55 53 mm)
1 Factory Pro Tuning jet kit for VN750.
p/n: CRB-K24-3.0 config 30

Thanks to Bulldog for providng this info!


Here's some valuable information that I have collected regarding the Ear Shave.
This should get you started, but may require some more research.
Please note that I am not a mechanic. This is information only. If you're
unsure, have a pro do it. Feel free to email me or post any q's.

Check out Jason's Ear Shave: http://photos.yahoo.com/jaster131/

Check out Frank's Ear Shave: http://photos.yahoo.com/fcb64

Thanks to Jason Spivy for posting the parts list.

Ron Ayers:
1 x 14-20900 EMGO crank case filters* = $10.63
(this one mounts on the left side and connects to the crankcase
or you can order one more for the right side, connects to the
breather on the carb float bowl assebly)
Shipping = about $8.00 from California
*There has been problems with the adhesive on these filters,
most of us who have them used a stronger silicone or epoxy.

Auto Zone
1 x Spectre 3995 Breather Filter $9.00
(this one is used for the breather on the carb float bowl and
can be placed underneath & behind the seat)

Sudco:
2 x 019-812 40-Idle jet = $8.90
1 x 019-194 140-Main jet = $4.45 (2-140's seems to work for most)
1 x 019-195 142-Main jet = $4.45 (optional)
1 x 009-396 0.126" Shim 12 pack = $4.00
Shipping = about $8.75

Auto Zone (may have to special order)
2 x K&N RC-2340 = $71.82 (not including local tax)
-or-
AJ USA (www.ajusa.com) 1-800-877-1911
2 x K&N RC-2340 = $58.70 (includes "FREE" shipping!!)

1 x 1/4" rubber vacuum cap $1.59 (Autozone comes in pkg of 4)
(Used on right side of carb vacuum fitting)

Small cable tie (for the vacuum cap)

True Value: (optional)
2 x 20mm chrome bolts = $6.38
2 x chrome washers = $1.78
(non-chrome bolts and washers about $ .75)

Total = about $135.00

In case I made a typo, verify parts numbers before ordering.

The chrome bolts and washers were used to mount the crank case filters
(stock bolts were too short). One filter was used for the crank case
and the other for the carb breather hose. There are cheaper filters
than K&N but that is a personal preference.

You'll also need a new breather hose which can be bought at any auto
store. I used some hoses laying around here but it looks like you need
the hose, 45 elbow, and 90 elbow.
------------------------------------------------------

To answer several questions in one post:

Q: Why do you add shims?
A: After the ear shave, the needles need to be shorter.
As far as I can tell, no one makes a shorter needle for these carbs.
You may have read some other members posts about Sherm's rebuild
kit that includes replacement needles. I used the stock needles.
The only way to shorten the stock needles are to add shims
(obviously doesn't shorten it but raises it up a little).

Q: How many shims did you use on each needle?
A: I put two under each needle and that seems to work fine.
Two shims seems to be the standard that works for most people.

<This is assuming that you are using the original stock needles.>

The following is part of a discussion regarding the stock
needles -vs- the needles that are supplied with The Factory Pro
Jet Kit from Sherm's:
--------------------------------------------------------

Just to clarify -- I used 4 shims ON "TOP OF" each
needle, not under. -Pick
-------------------------------------------------------------

The shims go "UNDER" the head of the needle (like the head of a nail).

If someone said that they put a washer under a nail, it would most
likely be understood that the nail went "through" the washer, not that
the point of the nail was on top of the washer.

The needle is tapered, and with more air flow from the ear shave, more
fuel is needed to maintain the correct fuel to air mixture, so raising
the needle opens more area around the needle to flow more fuel.
I removed each needle, slid two spacers on, then put the needles back
in. This puts the spacers on the top end on the needle but not on top
of the needle. ??? I'm confused. What does putting spacers on top of
the needle do?-doowriter123
---------------------------------------------------------------

OK, I don't claim to know the whys and wherefores, but I got the ear shave
kit from Sherm's before they went out of business. I got a selection of
jets, shims, and new needles with the kit. I used 40 pilots and 140 mains,
with the clip in the 3rd position on the new needles. IIRC, that was in the
middle slot. I did not use any shims. The bike ran fine while
accelerating, but when I let off the throttle, it would stumble badly --
sort of like it was running out of gas or something (maybe it was
flooding?). I popped the tops off of the carbs and put 4 shims on top of
each needle, and the stumbling disappeared. The bike ran great all the
time, throughout the rpm range, accelerating or decelerating. I don't know
why this worked for me. It didn't make any sense to me either. I thought
the shims would have to go under the needles. I can only guess that putting
the shims on top causes more pressure to be applied downward, keeping the
needles from "floating" as much, or something like that. -Pick
----------------------------------------------------------------

Sooooo.... You didn't use the original needles. You had needles that
used clips that came with Sherms kit. The clip position limits the maximum
down limit of the needle. This explains the 3rd clip position.

If the clip on the needle is enough smaller than the vacuum slide
spring seat, the needle could possibly be able to wiggle around and
up and down, so putting shims on top could hold the needles down
where they should be.

The needles and clips are a more expensive way to get the result,
but they may have been chosen because of their profile. -doowriter123
------------------------------------------------------------------

That sounds plausible to me. The new needles came with the Factory Pro jet
kit, so I thought I may as well use them. If I had stayed with the stock
needles, I would most likely have used a different configuration to get it
to run right. -Pick
------------------------------------------------------------------

After the ear shave, the needles need to be shorter.
As far as I can tell, no one makes a shorter needle for these carbs.
The only way to shorten the needle is to add shims
(obviously doesn't shorten it but raises it up a little).

BOTTOM LINE-
Use the stock needle, and two shims "UNDER" each needle. -Frank Braun
---------------------------------------------------------------------

Q: My new jets seem shorter than the stock jets, is that okay?
A: The jets that come with the PRO Jet Kit are the same length
as the stock jets. The jets from Sudco seem to be shorter but
have the same effect. So length does not seem to be an issue.

Q: you mention bolts to mount the crank case & breather filters. Where
did you mount these?
A: I mounted them at the top bolt hole from the ears. (Some have
mounted to the bottom bolt hole) The old bolts
were too short so they had to be replaced.

Q: Whats the vacuum cap for?
A: The carbs have two vacuum connectors. One goes to the gas tank
petcock and the other one used to go to the surge tank. I decided to
plug the vacuum on the right side of the bike and secure it with the cable
tie. The engine seemed to idle better. Some people buy a small filter
and connect it under the seat. It's optional.

Q: did you take carbs out or do the needle & jet work with them in place?
A: I installed the shims with the carbs in place. I did everything I
could to install the jets without removing the carbs but couldn't do
it. Removing the carbs was easier than I expected. Plus it gave me a
chance to inspect the diaphrams and the connections.

Q: what is wrong with the ears ? why remove them ?
A: There's nothing wrong with them*. Some want to increase air flow in
order to increase power (and decrease fuel economy*). Others want a
cleaner, less cluttered appearance. I had one ear busted and needed to
replace it. Also, it seems that every time I did work on the bike, I
was hitting the ears with my elbow, head, etc. I don't mind the look of
the ears, but I do enjoy having less stuff in my way.

*Keep in mind that the ear shave may be illegal in some states due to the emmissions.
Save all the old parts just in case the laws change.

Dianna
Conway, AR
Patriot Guard Rider
2000 VN750 Sere (Serendipity)
1990 GL1500 (Ole Blue)
1986 VN750 EVie (project bike, heavy custom)
VROC # 11628 / 25000-H
ARVROC # 12 Coordinator and Crowd Control
OKVROC # 18 (H)
TNVROC # 45 (H)
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-14-2006, 11:46 AM
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NO!!!!!! lol, just kidding. let us see pics when your done!

'04 Vn750
Currently Installed
nat'l cycle deflector shield
westco 12v30 MF, 30A/h w/ 350 CCA's w/ custom box
TOC stator cover w/ Frankenstator mod!
R/R relo

Soon to have (own or on order)
TOC ACCT's
Mez's 110-FRT 170/80-Rear
Custom rear fender and tail light
Givi hard bags w/ custom rear turn signals


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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-14-2006, 12:31 PM
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according to wiki:
"The ear is the sense organ that detects sound. The vertebrate ear shows a common biology from fish to humans to motorcycles, with variations in structure according to order and species. It not only acts as a receiver for sound, but plays a major role in the
sense of balance and body position"

why would you want to shave off your ears? IMO without the ears it looks like something is missing.

http://agrasyuk.googlepages.com/home
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Wheeling, IL
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-14-2006, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
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It's not so much the ears as that stinkin' air box......it makes getting the engine out a lot more difficult than it has to be.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-14-2006, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artman
It's not so much the ears as that stinkin' air box......it makes getting the engine out a lot more difficult than it has to be.

Now I hadn't thought of that! If I ever have to pull my engine, maybe then I will do the mod. But until then, I like the ears.

kait

My Blog:

http://kaitbr.blogspot.com


VROC #21146

Mods and other stuff:
nat'l cycle deflector shield
final drive splines lubed 8/06
replaced broken speedometer cable (5194 miles) 9/06

Vehicles:
95 S-10 Blazer 187K miles (Black and Silver)
01 Kawasaki VN750 3300+ my miles, 5300+ total miles (Black and Silver)
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-15-2006, 01:32 AM
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hummm interesting... maybe i should pull the air box out, but leave the ears.... would make a great place to install additional electronics. You know, like my radar jammer, electronic counter measures, HID ballasts, gps reciever, strobe controler, and who knows, maybe even the efi controler if i ever do fuel injection.....

'04 Vn750
Currently Installed
nat'l cycle deflector shield
westco 12v30 MF, 30A/h w/ 350 CCA's w/ custom box
TOC stator cover w/ Frankenstator mod!
R/R relo

Soon to have (own or on order)
TOC ACCT's
Mez's 110-FRT 170/80-Rear
Custom rear fender and tail light
Givi hard bags w/ custom rear turn signals


Band Engineer/Webmaster for Josey Contreras Tejano Band
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