Carb O Rings & Sometimes Seafoam Doesn't Work!!! - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-25-2012, 08:03 AM Thread Starter
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Carb O Rings & Sometimes Seafoam Doesn't Work!!!

Greetings: I really wasn't looking forward to pulling the carbs out....Tried Seafoam in the tank and direct injection to the float chamber with only a slight improvement: Out came the carbs and at the same time removed all of the non essentials to do an ear shave: The front carb which was giving me all my grief was as bad as any I've ever seen...Check out the pics....: So, my question is can I go to Ace hardware or similar to match up the float chamber o rings...or do they need to be Kaw oem: Not even sure if they need replacing...they're not dried out but maybe a little flattened. At about $12.00 ea...I'm hoping for an alternative: Also, I will be re-jetting with 142/42 jets....who would you source from and would aftermarket be as good as oem? Thanks for any recommendations...Ride Safe!!!
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-25-2012, 09:00 AM
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Eww That's nasty! Worst carbs I've ever seen...

Let's see when I ear shaved mine, I called Sudco and gave the guy the part numbers and they mailed them to me. I did some shopping around, researched how other guys did it and sudco was the cheapest place I could find, and the parts I received were quality. Here's the info you'll need.
1 Mikuni (Sudco) Needle Shims Item# 009-396 $7.95
2 Keihin PN: 99101-393 Main Jet Size: 142 $13.90
2 Keihin PN: N424-22 Pilot/Slow Jet Size: 42 $13.90
Total $35.75

Double check that those are the right numbers by entering them on Sudco.com

As for the O-rings, I can't say for sure that Ace will have what you need, each one is different. I would take a trip down there and see though. I just replaced an O-ring for the final drive and found one that matched up perfectly from Ace. However, for the ear shave I ordered mine off Ebay I believe.

1990 VN750 Red and Black
Bought on 6/30/2012 w/ 13,230 miles
At ~20,000
To Do List: Paint Front Rim, Acct- mcct mod

Done: Adjusted Float Bowls, R/R Replace and Relocate, Coastered, Ear Shave, Front/Rear Tire Change, Replaced Final Gear Seals, Splines Lubed, Relay Coil Mod, Replaced Fork Seals, Rebuilt Starter
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-25-2012, 10:07 AM
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-25-2012, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlacoLove View Post
Wow. That must of came out of your tank. My advise is do NOT put any more seafoam into your tank if you are uncertain whats in the bottom! Seafoam has disintegrating properties that will loosen gunk/debris. Seafoam (which I use all the time) can be dangerous. When I first bought my bike, it ran perfect for the first two years until I put seafoam in my tank. It was then (2 years ago) that I learned how to dismantle our carbs, and rebuild petcocks. (BTW: same result as yours). Ride safe.
I would suggest that you get a good look into your tank as soon as you can drain it down as much as possible. You may have to do a good tank cleaning to avoid the same situation again in the near future. It would be a PITA to clean up the carbs and then have them all junked up again in a few months. Better now than later. JMHO.

and always remember, "Ride until you rot!"
**Really not sure if the Big "C" is back right now
but having to face the fact that this is a lifetime routine
going forward. Five operations done and it still continues.

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-25-2012, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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In all fairness I probably overdid it with the seafoam.... ( if a little is good...then more is better); Your advice is right on....I will be checking the tank and pulling the petcock....any suggestions regarding the petcock??? I have mixed feelings about using a filter after the petcock...what if any filters are recommended??? Live Long and Prosper and Ride Safe! Tnx
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-25-2012, 12:37 PM
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If you have a Harbor freight nearby check out their large boxes (382 & 397 pieces) of nitrile rubber O-rings, They have both metric and SAE, cost about $5.00 - $6.00 each. So far I have found a match for everything I needed by looking through both and the o-ring for the drain plug is better than Kawasaki's.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-25-2012, 12:53 PM
..have a vulcan good day!
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Green1 View Post
If you have a Harbor freight nearby check out their large boxes (382 & 397 pieces) of nitrile rubber O-rings, They have both metric and SAE, cost about $5.00 - $6.00 each. So far I have found a match for everything I needed by looking through both and the o-ring for the drain plug is better than Kawasaki's.
This is the way to go !

WilliamTech

'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-25-2012, 08:03 PM Thread Starter
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Tnx Green: I do have an HF nearby....tnx for the headsup....on the o rings...
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-26-2012, 08:38 AM
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Last edited by FlacoLove; 03-25-2013 at 03:55 AM.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-26-2012, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlacoLove View Post
Absolutely! 'which is why I had replaced my tank (new/used, mint on the inside) immediately (2-3 years ago).

If buying a new/used tank is not an option, you may want to google, or go to utube (or our browser above) and type "how to clean motorcycle gas tank" and get ideas. Maybe you can just remove tank; drain the gas; dump in seafoam (or similar); shake intermittently; let sit over night; repeat. Some ppl add bolts and nuts with their Foam and shake, shake, shake your booty. Ride safe.
Seems metal BB's are more efficient. They can be had at wally world for cheap.

Basically:
- Drain tank
- Let it air dry
- Tape off holes with duct tape
- Dump in a tube of BB's and tape off the hole
- Wrap in a well padded blanket
- Tumble in dryer on a non-heat setting for a while
- Check on progress and repeat until satisfied
- Dump out BB's making certain none are stuck
- Wash out with water then alcohol to evaporate the water quicker
- ???
- Profit!

The BB's should remove most of the surface rust and break off any loose flakes.

Good luck

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