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After perusing the forum for the past month or two, I did some research, bought the parts and modified a couple things all at once on the bike. First the R/R relocate and replace. Then I coastered it and completely removed the emissions component/hoses. Last, I did the ear shave, which meant re-jetting the carb. Currently running 142's/42's and 2 shims on the needle.
It's running and rideable again now, and I definitely notice a difference when it's WOT. it's got decent power at low rpms too, but when I'm doing 3-5k RPM the bike will bog down some, and i can feel it "pulling" intermittently. I've been experimenting with the Air mixture screws, too far in makes it worse. Right now they're like 3 turns or more out, almost to the point of falling out; and I'm still getting the bog.
I'm afraid to go out anymore, and am running out of options. Ideas?
It's running and rideable again now, and I definitely notice a difference when it's WOT. it's got decent power at low rpms too, but when I'm doing 3-5k RPM the bike will bog down some, and i can feel it "pulling" intermittently. I've been experimenting with the Air mixture screws, too far in makes it worse. Right now they're like 3 turns or more out, almost to the point of falling out; and I'm still getting the bog.
I'm afraid to go out anymore, and am running out of options. Ideas?
1990 VN750 Red and Black
Bought on 6/30/2012 w/ 13,230 miles
At ~20,000
To Do List: Paint Front Rim, Acct- mcct mod
Done: Adjusted Float Bowls, R/R Replace and Relocate, Coastered, Ear Shave, Front/Rear Tire Change, Replaced Final Gear Seals, Splines Lubed, Relay Coil Mod, Replaced Fork Seals, Rebuilt Starter

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What do your plugs look like? That is what I would look at before adjust the screws a bunch.
Try with the screws at 1 1/2 out, and move from there. You could be running really rich. Make sure your carbs are seated properly.
I'm curious about the plug's condition, though.
Try with the screws at 1 1/2 out, and move from there. You could be running really rich. Make sure your carbs are seated properly.
I'm curious about the plug's condition, though.
1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R
1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
1998 Honda VFR800 FI
2014 Honda VFR800F
1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
I can check 3 of the plugs... one I stripped and decided to just leave it in and deal with it later. Heli-coils don't look fun. Last time I looked at the plugs, a month ago, I cleaned the tips off, and they looked good I know they are decently new. I don't know gap sizes though...
By seated properly, you mean the rubber connections from the cylinder to the carb? If so, I had trouble getting those to align and cover both carbs entirely, but I do believe they are on enough to seal...
By seated properly, you mean the rubber connections from the cylinder to the carb? If so, I had trouble getting those to align and cover both carbs entirely, but I do believe they are on enough to seal...
1990 VN750 Red and Black
Bought on 6/30/2012 w/ 13,230 miles
At ~20,000
To Do List: Paint Front Rim, Acct- mcct mod
Done: Adjusted Float Bowls, R/R Replace and Relocate, Coastered, Ear Shave, Front/Rear Tire Change, Replaced Final Gear Seals, Splines Lubed, Relay Coil Mod, Replaced Fork Seals, Rebuilt Starter

Last edited by 1stVulcan; 08-26-2012 at 09:05 PM.
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I need to ask, what air filter did you use?

Only the best, K&N RC-2340's
1990 VN750 Red and Black
Bought on 6/30/2012 w/ 13,230 miles
At ~20,000
To Do List: Paint Front Rim, Acct- mcct mod
Done: Adjusted Float Bowls, R/R Replace and Relocate, Coastered, Ear Shave, Front/Rear Tire Change, Replaced Final Gear Seals, Splines Lubed, Relay Coil Mod, Replaced Fork Seals, Rebuilt Starter

How about the air hose that goes to the right ear. Have you tucked it under the feul tank away from direct air flow?

Are you talking about the hose that goes in to the front of the front cylinder head? This pic shows the crankcase filter that I attached to that part.
Or the one that was apart of the emissions system that I removed?
Or the one that was apart of the emissions system that I removed?
1990 VN750 Red and Black
Bought on 6/30/2012 w/ 13,230 miles
At ~20,000
To Do List: Paint Front Rim, Acct- mcct mod
Done: Adjusted Float Bowls, R/R Replace and Relocate, Coastered, Ear Shave, Front/Rear Tire Change, Replaced Final Gear Seals, Splines Lubed, Relay Coil Mod, Replaced Fork Seals, Rebuilt Starter

No. It is the one that comes off of the carbs. It has a "T" and it comes off of both carbs.

I don't know what you're talking about, and just examined the bike and can't find anything like that..
1990 VN750 Red and Black
Bought on 6/30/2012 w/ 13,230 miles
At ~20,000
To Do List: Paint Front Rim, Acct- mcct mod
Done: Adjusted Float Bowls, R/R Replace and Relocate, Coastered, Ear Shave, Front/Rear Tire Change, Replaced Final Gear Seals, Splines Lubed, Relay Coil Mod, Replaced Fork Seals, Rebuilt Starter

there are two hoses that connect to the top of the float chamber on the carbs they tee into each other and the one hose coming off of the tee is usually tucked into the right ear but since you have shaved those puppys off you need to tuck it back under the tank out of direct air flow or the wind whipping across it will cause the slugging you describe
at idle you dont feel it cause there is little wind and at WOT you are pouring in enough fuel to not notice it
its the hoses that come off these things at the ends of my fingers
at idle you dont feel it cause there is little wind and at WOT you are pouring in enough fuel to not notice it
its the hoses that come off these things at the ends of my fingers

Last edited by new rider 9984; 08-27-2012 at 06:38 PM.
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