Rust was the problem - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 43 (permalink) Old 08-20-2006, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
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Rust was the problem

Ok, determined it is some rust in the tank. Without going to radical in the steps, which is the best way to get the rust out? The BB trick with acid, the 3 step creme process, or just keep flushing it with seafoam and gas (I could use the gas in my beatup car )

I know my carbs will gunk up again if I don't get to it right away.
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post #2 of 43 (permalink) Old 08-20-2006, 08:03 PM
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Check out THIS section of the Vulcan Verses.

It's a little extreme in a way, but should work, with little cost.

There's also THIS ONE there too.


AKA: Tim & 'The Adventure Cycle' VROC #24567, NEVROC, SteelCity VROC


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post #3 of 43 (permalink) Old 08-20-2006, 08:18 PM Thread Starter
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The first one with the BB's sounds the easiest to do, I probably won't throw it in the dryer (my girlfriend would kill me). After you do this do you coat the tank? If so, with what.
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post #4 of 43 (permalink) Old 08-20-2006, 09:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by photohap
After you do this do you coat the tank? If so, with what.
Well, there are products out there for coating the inside of a tank. I don't know off hand what/where, but someone here should.

If ya did the second process, while cleaning it, it creates it's own rustproof coating.


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post #5 of 43 (permalink) Old 08-20-2006, 09:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by photohap
Ok, determined it is some rust in the tank. Without going to radical in the steps, which is the best way to get the rust out? The BB trick with acid, the 3 step creme process, or just keep flushing it with seafoam and gas (I could use the gas in my beatup car )

I know my carbs will gunk up again if I don't get to it right away.

When I got my bike there was a lot of gunk and rust in the tank. I used the POR15 kit to restore my tank. The inside cleaned up well.

Bob
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post #6 of 43 (permalink) Old 08-20-2006, 11:22 PM Thread Starter
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I am debating, but I will probably go the creme route, kind of nervous on this since my tank doesn't leek and isn't severely rusty. The bike will be a daily rider , even in the winter here in Seattle. I have done the creme before and had success, but I am still nervous on it.
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post #7 of 43 (permalink) Old 08-20-2006, 11:54 PM
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In doing some searching on this subject, it would seem as though the biggest thing is following directions, exactly, and be patient. Don't rush whatever way ya end up doing it and things should work out just fine.
You're a Vulcaneer, you can do it !!!


AKA: Tim & 'The Adventure Cycle' VROC #24567, NEVROC, SteelCity VROC


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post #8 of 43 (permalink) Old 08-21-2006, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
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I did lots of research

I am starting the tank cleaning here shortly.

The method I will be using is listed below,it seems pretty widely used. I called a few radiator shops and they recommended this also over using creme to seal the tank. copied from another website:

Most recently, I've settled on a Muratic acid wash followed by a dose of phosphoric acid as the best method, mostly because it always gets the job done and doesn't require a lot of physical effort. To do the job you first have to decide if the tank has scaly rust or just surface rust. If the rust hasn't gotten to the point where it's scaly you can skip the 1/4" nuts, referred to later.

Flush out any oily varnish that may be coating the lower regions of the tank with acetone or any of those engine degreasers. If you choose the engine degreaser flush the tank with water.

Remove the fuel level sensor. Seal it's opening with GOOD duct tape.

Remove the petcock and seal it up with an appropriate plug or capped section of hose.

Dump 30 or so 1/4" nuts into the tank.

Pour in a pint or so of Muratic acid. Seal up the fill spout with GOOD duct tape. Wear gloves, old clothes, and safety goggles. Agitate the tank for 10 to fifteen minutes. During this time you can monitor the pressure in the tank by watching the duct tape bulging at the fill hole. If too much pressure develops, carefully vent it by peeling the tape back than reseal and keep shaking.

Next pick a piece of concrete that you don't particularly care about. Remove the tape from the sender opening and fill hole and flush the tank with cold water. The acid that has not already been consumed will neutralize itself on the concrete. You're still wearing goggles and gloves right?

Now dry off the openings and reseal them with GOOD duct tape. This time pour in a pint of naval jelly, or milk stone remover or tile haze remover. These are all phosphoric acid formulations. Phosphoric acid is not as aggressive as Muratic acid and therefore is mostly a waste of time if you're trying to really remove rust. What phosphoric acid will really do well is leave the inside of the tank coated with iron phosphate, which is somewhat rust resistant. For this step you do not need much agitation. Just tumble the tank over several times and let it set for a half hour or so and then tumble it again. After about two hours of this go back to the concrete slab and open the tank and flush it out thoroughly, THOUROUGHLY.

Now bring it back in the shop and secure a blow dryer to the fill hole and force dry the tank. This may take two hours. Position the tank in different orientations during this process to make sure that no seam holds water. Once it's really dry you're done. If you skip the phosphoric acid step the inside of the tank will flash rust before you can get it dried out. I've probably cleaned ten tanks with the method I described and never damaged the exterior paint or eaten through the steel.
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post #9 of 43 (permalink) Old 08-21-2006, 02:42 PM
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I used the Yamaha tank cleaner on mine. It's a two step process that doesn't require BBs or coating after treatment is completed. I had a fairly severe rust problem in that my tank had sat for 4 years half full of gas. The process took about 5 hours total and once the tank was reassembled and back on the bike, I haven't had a problem and it's been about 4 months or so.

Jim W
93 VN 750 "Ursula"
Moved R/R 08Sep06
R/R rewire 17Feb07
New R/R, Installed 14Jun08
New Stator installed 10 Jun08
Maintenance Free Battery 12Jan08
21480 Miles
VROC #8542
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post #10 of 43 (permalink) Old 08-21-2006, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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Looking around in the tank, there isn't heavy rust, only a few spots here and there. There is something roaming around in the tank that won't come out, fuel filter maybe? My petcock still has one on it, I have read that some bikes have two? Mine is a 93, non california model
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