Like POOGS but not - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Carbs and Fuel System
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-20-2012, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
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Like POOGS but not

OK i am new to this forum so please bare with me. I have a 94 Vulcan 750 that is really starting to upset me. Heres the issue. It dies at random whether the tank is full or very low, whether it is hot out or cold (although usually it is hot here), the vent from the tank is perfectly clear all the way down, I shortened that hose to eliminate cross wind on it due to the fact that it is always windy here. I pulled the hose from the right air filter and cut it at a 45 degree angle. I also have had my carbs pulled and repaired at the nearest Kawasaki shop. The mechanic there told me I should only mess with the high altitude adjustment if I want to touch the idle or carbs. I have done that and after my bike warms up it idles right around 1050rpm. When my bike is not giving me trouble (this is the one issue I have) It runs like a top. Fast as hell. I am at my wits end. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am very mechanically inlcined and can fix or build whatever but first I have have to know what to fix. Thank you in advance..
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-20-2012, 01:19 PM
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Check your wiring. Especially anything related to ignition....coils,plug wires,ignitor , etc....

Make sure you have a good grounds.... And lastly check your ignition switch, a loose connection or bad contact will cut your motor too...as will bad kill switch.....

Run some SeaFoam to make sure your carbs are clean, drain the float bowls afterwords.

It can still be POOGS if your gas cap vent is blocked.....

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-20-2012, 01:37 PM
..have a vulcan good day!
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knifemaker View Post
Check your wiring. Especially anything related to ignition....coils,plug wires,ignitor , etc....

Make sure you have a good grounds.... And lastly check your ignition switch, a loose connection or bad contact will cut your motor too...as will bad kill switch.....

Run some SeaFoam to make sure your carbs are clean, drain the float bowls afterwords.

It can still be POOGS if your gas cap vent is blocked.....
Great post Km !

'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-20-2012, 02:17 PM Thread Starter
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Ok thank you I will be checking all the wiring especially around the ignition. Let me clear this up though (my Bad) the bike does not quite die, it kind of kicks hard and acts as if its not getting fuel, or maybe it is getting too much, not sure. Sometimes when it happens if I "floor" it it will kind of chug for a moment and then get full gas and I take off or it just finishes dieing. I have tried riding with the gas cap open but that does me no good.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-20-2012, 02:27 PM
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Have you cked, cleaned your petcock, poss a vavume leak going to it! Could be a pinhole in that line causing sparadic vacume. Just a thought!!

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-20-2012, 02:29 PM
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When it dies, does it start back up?, do you sit a while cranking?

04-3,200 miles bought July 2011 with 928 miles. Loaded with acessories to many to list here, see my albums for more details! I also make a custom tank bib specific for the 750 if anyone is interested, ck my albums for some pics.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-20-2012, 04:47 PM
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I had a similar issue with my bike just a few weeks ago that actually persisted during the previous 2 months.

Shortly after getting the bike, I got ripped off when I had a shop in town that was supposed to pull, clean, install new gaskets and floats, reassemble and install my carbs. They did none of that, and got a good chunk of my money.

What happed over the next couple of months started in a similar fashion to what you descirbe.

About 15mins to 20mins after I started the bike and began riding it on the highway, the bike felt like it kinda lost a bit of power; I had to roll the throttle back a bit to maintain speed. Then several miles down the road it would die. If I cracked the gas cap open or waited a few minutes it would sputter to life, and off I'd go to work or home.

Three weeks ago, I was on the way home, I had that slight loss of power, then the bike died. This happened twice on I95 South, outside temps in to 90s. I filled up with gas when I got off the interstate, and 20mins later as I closed the throttle while I was coming to a stop, the bike backfired alot, and loud to boot, then sputtered out and died. After 20mins or so of sitting there, I got the bike to sputter to life. It backfired, and sputter up to 3000rpm, then seemed to smooth out, but lacked power. At idle is was a mess.

Long story short, I ended up pulling the carbs my-self and cleaning them. Here's what I found. The needles that we turn in all the way, and turn out 2 1/2 turns was filthy with crud. The coasting enrichment diaphragm on the rear carb was torn. At the inlet of each carb, in the mouth are three drilled holes. The hole on the left of each carb was partially clogged. Both the low speed and high speed jets were partially clogged/dirty. The large velocity diaphragm was improperly seated and leaking. The carbs had the original aluminum oxide encrusted, leaking gaskets in the bowels, as well as the gaskets in the same condition that are used in the low speed, high speed circuit. After replacing all the gaskets, and giving the carbs a complete cleaning, the bike runs like Kawasaki intended it to.

I gues what I'm saying is, it sounds like you may have a set of carbs that could be in need of some good cleaning. Sorry so long winded.

Hope this helps.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-20-2012, 04:52 PM
..have a vulcan good day!
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RustyFuryIII View Post
I had a similar issue with my bike just a few weeks ago that actually persisted during the previous 2 months.

Shortly after getting the bike, I got ripped off when I had a shop in town that was supposed to pull, clean, install new gaskets and floats, reassemble and install my carbs. They did none of that, and got a good chunk of my money.

What happed over the next couple of months started in a similar fashion to what you descirbe.

About 15mins to 20mins after I started the bike and began riding it on the highway, the bike felt like it kinda lost a bit of power; I had to roll the throttle back a bit to maintain speed. Then several miles down the road it would die. If I cracked the gas cap open or waited a few minutes it would sputter to life, and off I'd go to work or home.

Three weeks ago, I was on the way home, I had that slight loss of power, then the bike died. This happened twice on I95 South, outside temps in to 90s. I filled up with gas when I got off the interstate, and 20mins later as I closed the throttle while I was coming to a stop, the bike backfired alot, and loud to boot, then sputtered out and died. After 20mins or so of sitting there, I got the bike to sputter to life. It backfired, and sputter up to 3000rpm, then seemed to smooth out, but lacked power. At idle is was a mess.

Long story short, I ended up pulling the carbs my-self and cleaning them. Here's what I found. The needles that we turn in all the way, and turn out 2 1/2 turns was filthy with crud. The coasting enrichment diaphragm on the rear carb was torn. At the inlet of each carb, in the mouth are three drilled holes. The hole on the left of each carb was partially clogged. Both the low speed and high speed jets were partially clogged/dirty. The large velocity diaphragm was improperly seated and leaking. The carbs had the original aluminum oxide encrusted, leaking gaskets in the bowels, as well as the gaskets in the same condition that are used in the low speed, high speed circuit. After replacing all the gaskets, and giving the carbs a complete cleaning, the bike runs like Kawasaki intended it to.

I gues what I'm saying is, it sounds like you may have a set of carbs that could be in need of some good cleaning. Sorry so long winded.

Hope this helps.
I am not sure any dose of Seafoam would have corrected the crud issue.

WilliamTech

'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-20-2012, 06:22 PM
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"I am not sure any dose of Seafoam would have corrected the crud issue."

I agree, I believe I paid $432 for someone to dump a can of Seafoam in the tank and spray down the outside of the carbs.

I left the bike with the shop for 2 1/2 weeks. They told me it would take 10 business days to get the gaskets and floats. When I picked up the bike, the carbs were dripping carb cleaner. The bike ran a tad better, but still had major issues with cold start, idle and the pseudo POOGS thing.

Sad thing is, a co-worker dropped his Harley off at the same shop for the same carb work a month later, and got ripped off just like I did. Neither one of us knew the other was going to be using the same shop. Sucks.

Sorry to hijack thread, won't happen again.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-20-2012, 09:04 PM
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Clean out the pet cock , remove and clean. Check your vacuum line to the pet cock also, you may have a slight leak.

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