Carb won't go back on - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-19-2012, 01:16 AM Thread Starter
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Carb won't go back on

My buddy and I recently took my carb off to clean it. No problems whatsoever until we tried putting it back on. As soon as we get the front tube on (believe they're called manifolds) and we try to put the back one on the front one pop off. Tries reversing the order, so putting the read tube on then front on but still didn't work. As soon as we readjust it to fit the other tube on the other pops out. Is there some kind of trick or does it just take time and playing with the position?
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-19-2012, 01:47 AM
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Originally Posted by numb0617 View Post
My buddy and I recently took my carb off to clean it. No problems whatsoever until we tried putting it back on. As soon as we get the front tube on (believe they're called manifolds) and we try to put the back one on the front one pop off. Tries reversing the order, so putting the read tube on then front on but still didn't work. As soon as we readjust it to fit the other tube on the other pops out. Is there some kind of trick or does it just take time and playing with the position?
I believe the instructions state during disassembly, to leave the left (front carb) boot on the intake manifold....
or do I have that backwards ?

guys....help needed here.
Williamtech

'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-19-2012, 01:51 AM
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There is line up tabs on the boots, plus I think they are marked L&R--

04-3,200 miles bought July 2011 with 928 miles. Loaded with acessories to many to list here, see my albums for more details! I also make a custom tank bib specific for the 750 if anyone is interested, ck my albums for some pics.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-19-2012, 01:54 AM
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Also put the throttle cables on before install and think WT is right that one boot stays on the cylinder---

04-3,200 miles bought July 2011 with 928 miles. Loaded with acessories to many to list here, see my albums for more details! I also make a custom tank bib specific for the 750 if anyone is interested, ck my albums for some pics.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-19-2012, 01:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by romeobravo172 View Post
There is line up tabs on the boots, plus I think they are marked L&R--
Yes, be aware, the boots are labeled with L & R, and there tabs to line up during successful installation.

hope this helps
WilliamTech

'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-19-2012, 12:04 PM
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-19-2012, 12:30 PM
Crap, I WAS in 5th gear.
 
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One tip is to keep the carbs as HIGH as possible, and then push them down into the boots. Carbs go in from the right and it's best to try and follow Clymer's.

My boots have molded dots on the cylinder side, those dots go outboard.

Carb installation is a rite of passage for a VN750 owner-- it is very difficult the first time.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-19-2012, 02:05 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the advice guys. This was my first time posting and you guys answered so quickly. You're awesome. I'll give it a shot tomorrow and let you know how it goes.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-19-2012, 10:42 PM
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From the Ear Shave link below.....

When removing carbs:
The front cylinder carb/cylinder rubber boot will REMAIN ATTACHED to the cylinder head during removal of carb assembly

Loosen the carb-side screw ONLY of the front cylinder carb/cylinder rubber boot. This rubber boot will REMAIN on cylinder! (see Figure 10)
Loosen the cylinder-side screw ONLY of the rear cylinder carb/cylinder rubber boot. This rubber boot will REMAIN on carb!

Carefully re-install carb assembly. I found it easier to get the front cylinder connected first, then connected rearů.double check to ensure boots are properly installed/aligned.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-20-2012, 10:48 PM
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I ended up taking both boots off to take the carb out. And Just left the two boots off until the carb was in about the right position. Worked but was a little tough to get both boots to go on simultaneously. There's practically no room to move the carbs around in though so it's difficult. I'm gonna try leaving the front cylinder boot on the next time, sounds easier.

1990 VN750 Red and Black
Bought on 6/30/2012 w/ 13,230 miles
At ~20,000
To Do List: Paint Front Rim, Acct- mcct mod

Done: Adjusted Float Bowls, R/R Replace and Relocate, Coastered, Ear Shave, Front/Rear Tire Change, Replaced Final Gear Seals, Splines Lubed, Relay Coil Mod, Replaced Fork Seals, Rebuilt Starter
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