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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-31-2012, 11:29 PM Thread Starter
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carb mods

carbs are dirty so i'm sending them in to get "ultra-sonic cleaned" (by a company i found on this site, but i don't remember their name). is there any mods i should get done while they have them? i was thinking about coastering or marbling, which requires bigger jets (?), but haven't fully decided yet. i have aftermarket v&h pipes, but i doubt any other work has been done other than a seat mod that i did myself. i was also thinking about doing an ear shave too. any suggestions before i send it in? i really dont want my bike down any longer than needed, but while its out and at a reputable carb company, might as well do what i can.

note: when the carbs come back from getting cleaned, i'm putting them back on right away, so anything i have them do MUST work on an otherwise stock configuration as well. though, if the mods are cheap or free, i can do the work while the carbs are in the shop.

- 1998 Vulcan 750
- Black with red
- MCCT conversion
- Pick up coil mod
- Stereo with 3.5 inch speakers
- Sylvania ridiculously bright headlight
- Westco maintenance free battery
- Vance & Hines slash cut pipes
- Custom turn signal bracket
- Arrowhead universal turn signals (rear only)
- Kuryakyn longhorn offset highway pegs
- Suzuki Savage 650 rear shocks (2 inches shorter)
- Lowered front 1.5 inches
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-01-2012, 11:55 AM
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If you have the bigger jets installed then you will have to finish the earshave as it won't run right if they are left stock.
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-01-2012, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drfraser View Post
carbs are dirty so i'm sending them in to get "ultra-sonic cleaned" (by a company i found on this site, but i don't remember their name). is there any mods i should get done while they have them? i was thinking about coastering or marbling, which requires bigger jets (?), but haven't fully decided yet. i have aftermarket v&h pipes, but i doubt any other work has been done other than a seat mod that i did myself. i was also thinking about doing an ear shave too. any suggestions before i send it in? i really dont want my bike down any longer than needed, but while its out and at a reputable carb company, might as well do what i can.

note: when the carbs come back from getting cleaned, i'm putting them back on right away, so anything i have them do MUST work on an otherwise stock configuration as well. though, if the mods are cheap or free, i can do the work while the carbs are in the shop.
What you have done would depend on how it was running before it was "dirty." You should just leave it stock, IMO.
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-01-2012, 07:20 PM Thread Starter
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main reason for getting them cleaned is just to get them checked out. the company i found on here will tear them down, clean them, fix anything thats wrong, and set the air/fuel mixture and syncing. bike has 53K miles on it and recently the throttle response has turned to crap. from what i read on here, its probably either a boot or a diaphram. i dont know much about carbs on a car, so i really dont want to tear into it.

just trying to catch all angles before i spend the money

- 1998 Vulcan 750
- Black with red
- MCCT conversion
- Pick up coil mod
- Stereo with 3.5 inch speakers
- Sylvania ridiculously bright headlight
- Westco maintenance free battery
- Vance & Hines slash cut pipes
- Custom turn signal bracket
- Arrowhead universal turn signals (rear only)
- Kuryakyn longhorn offset highway pegs
- Suzuki Savage 650 rear shocks (2 inches shorter)
- Lowered front 1.5 inches
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-01-2012, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drfraser View Post
main reason for getting them cleaned is just to get them checked out. the company i found on here will tear them down, clean them, fix anything thats wrong, and set the air/fuel mixture and syncing. bike has 53K miles on it and recently the throttle response has turned to crap. from what i read on here, its probably either a boot or a diaphram. i dont know much about carbs on a car, so i really dont want to tear into it.

just trying to catch all angles before i spend the money
You can't really sync the carbs without them being on the bike, and the bike running. Same with the idle mixture, that is best done on the specific bike.

I mean, the carbs are harder to get off and on than to service, so I would maybe just look into fixing them yourself.

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-01-2012, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
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so there's not like a billion little screws and springs to loose? i did hear its a real PITA to put them back on, but never hear anything about actually servicing them.

is there an easy way to see if the boots or diaphrams are ruined? i would like to diagnos it before i tear into it so i can get parts ordered if i do it myself

- 1998 Vulcan 750
- Black with red
- MCCT conversion
- Pick up coil mod
- Stereo with 3.5 inch speakers
- Sylvania ridiculously bright headlight
- Westco maintenance free battery
- Vance & Hines slash cut pipes
- Custom turn signal bracket
- Arrowhead universal turn signals (rear only)
- Kuryakyn longhorn offset highway pegs
- Suzuki Savage 650 rear shocks (2 inches shorter)
- Lowered front 1.5 inches
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-01-2012, 09:26 PM
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servicing the carbs is real simple... just take them apart and clean everything inside.... just do one carb at a time so you can use the other as a reference on how to put all the parts back together... but its very very simple... the first time I serviced my carbs it took about 1/2 an hour.. now it takes me about 10 minutes with my eyes closed.
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-01-2012, 09:59 PM
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Generally if there's a problem with the boots, you end up with a vacuum leak and backfiring. If that's not happening, you're probably fine there. If you want to check the diaphragms, you can pull the boot off at the bellmouth and put your hand over the bellmouth - you should get a good vacuum pull against your hand when you try to start the bike.

I'm with slim - the carbs are only hard the first time, and as long as you're careful and take pics as you go, you'll be absolutely fine on the reassembly.

Also, x 2 on this company not being able to sync your carbs off the bike - sync'ing and setting the idle are really specific to the idiosyncrasies of each bike. So even if you send them off for servicing, don't pay for that!

C
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-02-2012, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
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so what part is the "bell mouth"?

if i dont touch the syncing screws, will i still have to get them synced or will it be fine?

i'm not a carb guy, but if its that easy, i think i've decided to not send the carbs in lol. so how spendy are boots and diaphrams? would it be a decent idea to change those out since ill already have the carbs out and apart?

- 1998 Vulcan 750
- Black with red
- MCCT conversion
- Pick up coil mod
- Stereo with 3.5 inch speakers
- Sylvania ridiculously bright headlight
- Westco maintenance free battery
- Vance & Hines slash cut pipes
- Custom turn signal bracket
- Arrowhead universal turn signals (rear only)
- Kuryakyn longhorn offset highway pegs
- Suzuki Savage 650 rear shocks (2 inches shorter)
- Lowered front 1.5 inches
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-02-2012, 03:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drfraser View Post
if i dont touch the syncing screws, will i still have to get them synced or will it be fine?
You will want to sync the carbs any time you remove them from the bike. It's a fairly easy process to do. You can buy a carb sync tool for $50 like I did, or make one for about $10 at the most. Easy to do, and worth it.

1986 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
NGK Iridium Plugs #7803/DPR7EIX-9
Duralast Gold ETX15 AGM Battery
Coastered & Shaved
TOC MCCTs
Metzeler ME880 [110/90-19, 170/80-15]
Balance Dampers Replaced
Tuxedo Mod
Rebuilt Forks w/ Progressive Springs
V&H Cruzers
VN750.com Grill Cover
Meanstreak Seat
Emgo 23-92411 Handlebars
MOSFET FH012AA R/R


1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

1998 Honda VFR800 FI

2014 Honda VFR800F

1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350
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