air/fuel mixture screw and choke linkage - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-29-2012, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
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air/fuel mixture screw and choke linkage

i just pulled the carb off my 03 750 and as far as i can see the air/fuel mixture screw for the left and right carbs are not there. i have the idle adjustment knob. but where the air fuel screws should be there seems to be just a metal cap. also do anyone know how the spring on the choke linkage is supposed to sit? it doesnt even seem to have enough tension
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-30-2012, 12:37 AM
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If you see a cap where the mixture screw is that's because it was never adjusted before. They cap them from the factory, you should be able to pop that out and your screw will be there behind it.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-30-2012, 01:07 AM Thread Starter
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How would i go about getting that cap out? should i use a punch of some sort or is there an easier way of getting it out.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-30-2012, 01:43 AM
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You could carefully drill a hole and use a pin punch to pry it out. I forgot how I did mine.

You have to preload (wind) the spring, from what I remember.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-30-2012, 06:46 PM
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As for removing the caps, many drill them, but it is risky. If the drill goes through and hits the needle, it will damage the needle and possibly even the carb body. I used a drywall screw to remove mine. They are made of hardened metal, and have a very sharp point. And the cap is fairly soft. I put the point of the drywall screw in the middle of the cap, and tapped on it, turned it a bit, and tapped it again. After 3-4 times, I was actually able to screw it into the cap, then used the screw to pull the cap out.


The Vulcan does not actually have a choke in the traditional sense, it has an enrichener circuit, which is more complicated, and works in reverse to a choke. On a choke, pulling the knob closes the choke, so if it is warm enough, you can actually remove the cable and the engine will start and run fine. But on an enrichener circuit, pulling the choke lever back releases pressure on a plunger in the carbs, which opens the circuit, having the same effect as closing a choke. So if you remove the cable, or if it is loose, the "choke" will always be on, and the engine will not run. It's a really dumb and overly complicated design, which does not work any better than a conventional "flat plate" type choke, which makes me tend to believe it is an emissions thing of some kind. And it can and will leave you stranded if it breaks. My dual sport spent 130 miles in the back of a pickup, because the fitting that holds the enrichener cable to the carb broke, meaning the "choke" was stuck on, and I had no way to turn it off.

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2006 Sportster 1200 Low
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2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-12-2012, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
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thanks for the input, i was able to drill out the caps and gain access to the air mixture screw, PO had air box already out of bike when i bought it so im just waiting on my jets to come in today so that i can complete the ear shave that he started and failed to finish. hopefully she will be good to go in a week or so.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-12-2012, 04:18 PM
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To bad about the airbox. At least you know you will have to rejet, but also be aware that the pod type filters will let more dirt through than the stock filters, which will shorten engine life. As long as you know this, best of luck with it.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-13-2012, 01:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mavrickvn750 View Post
How would i go about getting that cap out?

Drill, screw, pull.
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