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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Chandler, Arizona
As for removing the caps, many drill them, but it is risky. If the drill goes through and hits the needle, it will damage the needle and possibly even the carb body. I used a drywall screw to remove mine. They are made of hardened metal, and have a very sharp point. And the cap is fairly soft. I put the point of the drywall screw in the middle of the cap, and tapped on it, turned it a bit, and tapped it again. After 3-4 times, I was actually able to screw it into the cap, then used the screw to pull the cap out.
The Vulcan does not actually have a choke in the traditional sense, it has an enrichener circuit, which is more complicated, and works in reverse to a choke. On a choke, pulling the knob closes the choke, so if it is warm enough, you can actually remove the cable and the engine will start and run fine. But on an enrichener circuit, pulling the choke lever back releases pressure on a plunger in the carbs, which opens the circuit, having the same effect as closing a choke. So if you remove the cable, or if it is loose, the "choke" will always be on, and the engine will not run. It's a really dumb and overly complicated design, which does not work any better than a conventional "flat plate" type choke, which makes me tend to believe it is an emissions thing of some kind. And it can and will leave you stranded if it breaks. My dual sport spent 130 miles in the back of a pickup, because the fitting that holds the enrichener cable to the carb broke, meaning the "choke" was stuck on, and I had no way to turn it off.
I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.
1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike