Fuel Leaking From Carb Boot - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-07-2012, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
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Unhappy Fuel Leaking From Carb Boot

How on earth do I tighten this carb boot. I parked the bike at the end of last year knowing that I had a slight fuel leak somewhere. I took her out of the shed this past weekend and started the process of getting her going for the summer. I dumped the gas (lazy me didn't treat it), seafoamed the carbs, cleaned the clogged petcock, and fired her up for the first time.......I had fuel dripping from a carb boot, the clamp is movable with the push of a finger. I don't have any idea how Im going to get that tight enough without taking the carbs off (never done that). Any ideas on how to get this tight would be greatly appreciated.
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2003 VN750

Deka MF Battery
Cleaned and Rebuilt Carbs Multiple Times
NGK Iridium Plugs
New Plug Wires
New Petcock w/screens
Fuel Tank Rust Removal - The Works Method
ACCT to MCCT Conversion
Brake Fluid Flush - Nice and Firm now


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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-07-2012, 10:51 AM
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You should be able to turn it into a position where you can get a long reach phillips screwdriver on it if not it is installed the wrong way round
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-07-2012, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quicksilver3602 View Post
How on earth do I tighten this carb boot. I parked the bike at the end of last year knowing that I had a slight fuel leak somewhere. I took her out of the shed this past weekend and started the process of getting her going for the summer. I dumped the gas (lazy me didn't treat it), seafoamed the carbs, cleaned the clogged petcock, and fired her up for the first time.......I had fuel dripping from a carb boot, the clamp is movable with the push of a finger. I don't have any idea how Im going to get that tight enough without taking the carbs off (never done that). Any ideas on how to get this tight would be greatly appreciated.
Not trying to be funny but why can't you just tighten it with a screw driver. Looking at your picture just rotate the clamp counterclockwise a little so you can get the phillips head onto the screw. Am I missing something in your post?

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2001 Vulcan 750
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-07-2012, 11:07 AM Thread Starter
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Tried that last JM2001....Its just a really crappy angle for a phillips head screw.

Swagman - cant even see the clamp from the other side. Are you saying maybe if the clamp was placed so the screw was on top of the boot with the screw facing the same way?



2003 VN750

Deka MF Battery
Cleaned and Rebuilt Carbs Multiple Times
NGK Iridium Plugs
New Plug Wires
New Petcock w/screens
Fuel Tank Rust Removal - The Works Method
ACCT to MCCT Conversion
Brake Fluid Flush - Nice and Firm now


The List

Spline Lube
Fork Seals/Dust Caps
New Front Tire
HID Headlight Kit
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-07-2012, 11:25 AM
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I use a 3" stubby screwdriver for tight spaces or use a 1/4 drive rachet with 1/4 inch socket with a phillips head drive bit into the socket.

JM2001

" Loud Pipes Risk Rights "

2001 Vulcan 750
marbled
TOC upgrade on ACCT
Air/fuel mixture set to 2 1/2 out
rectifier relocated
splines lubed
iridiums
decals removed
upgraded mirrors
Pic up coil mod done
degoated
All LED lighting
Upgraded Mosfet rectifier
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-14-2012, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
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Tried that last JM2001....Its just a really crappy angle for a phillips head screw.

Swagman - cant even see the clamp from the other side. Are you saying maybe if the clamp was placed so the screw was on top of the boot with the screw facing the same way?
Just realised that boot stays on the engine when the carbs are removed so you would struggle getting a driver on it, will a ratchet with a knuckle joint and driverbit go in there to get the angle
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-14-2012, 09:25 PM
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Best way to work with boot clamps (and I been messin with this last 2 days after installing new fuel lines) is to do it with the tank OFF. If you have stock air filtration, remove the boots to the carbs. All will be visible and accessible then. Its almost impossible to do it otherwise (not, but extremely difficult)...
Whilst replacing my fuel lines, i also was able to notice that one carb wasnt seated all the way into the cyl boot. The clamp was loose. I jiggled the carb assy around until it seated then tightened the clamp. Taking the tank off made all MUCH easier.



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