Heres part of a post I made on another thread. It seems to fit your situation, so I reposted it here. I noticed you already installed "coasters", which is the neatest looking way to go.
I am not a fan of the earshave thing, because there are no filters I'm aware of that work well enough to satisfy me that attach directly to the carbs. The earshave procedure seems to have become somewhat of a fad, and I feel many people may be doing it without realizing the possible consequences. From a mechanical point of view, it would be perfectly acceptable, IF you could get filters that matched the filtering ability of the stock filters. With filters like that, you would not need to rejet. From an aesthetic point of view, IMO, removing the "ears" makes it look like something is missing, but that is a subjective thing. The poor filtering ability of the K&N pod filters is real. More air flow means more dirt flow.
For a CA model I recommend removing the ENTIRE evap system, including the rectangular box and round thing down in front of the rear wheel. I even removed the bracket they attached to. Remove the hose that goes to the airbox, and plug the hole. On the rear of the fuel tank, where there are 2 fittings, take a separate hose and connect it to each one. Route the hoses down underneath the bike somewhere. You can use a zip tie to secure the ends of the hoses under the bike, just don't make it so tight it pinches the hoses.
Whether it is a CA model or not, it will have an air injection system. This system is a real can of worms. Get rid of it. Start by disconnecting the air hoses from the covers on the cylinder heads. There is one on each head. Then either plug the fittings where with rubber caps, or replace the covers altogether with "coasters" These are covers without the hose fittings, and look better, but are more expensive than a couple of rubber caps. Now go back to where the other ends of those hoses connect to a 3 way valve under the seat. You will find another large hose and one small hose on that valve. Remove the large hose from the airbox, and plug the hole. Remove the small hose from the rear carb, and plug the fitting on the carb. What you should have in your hands at this point is a big ugly looking thing that looks something like an octopus. You will have the 3 way valve, with 3 large rubber hoses and one small rubber hose connected to it. Save the rubber hoses, just in case you might need them for something else.
Now for the carb vents. There is a separate vent hose connected to each carb, which connects to a T fitting, turning it into one hose, which plugs into a hole in the right air cleaner housing. Connecting both hoses to the T fitting restricts airflow, and may result in the carbs not being properly vented. Rip the whole system off the carbs and the right air cleaner housing. Get 2 new hoses, connect one to each carb, and run them down below the bike somewhere, just like the 2 hoses from the fuel tank, and leave the ends open.
If it hasn't been done already, remove the caps from the carbs covering the pilot screws, carefully turn each screw in until it seats, then back it out at least 2 1/2 turns.
This is how I have my bike set up, and it runs great. And just to make you feel better, it is no longer EPA compliant, so you win, not the gvt.
Once you get rid of all the garbage, the Vulcan 750 fuel system is really quite simple.
I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.
1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike