CA emissions? all sorts of intake and vacuum questions.. - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-11-2012, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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CA emissions? all sorts of intake and vacuum questions..

I have a 05 750 Vulcan. I have the carbs out and just did the coastering mod.
I plugged off the reed valves and plugged the small vac line to the rear carb.
My bike seems to have the CA emmisions kit on it, canister, seperator and all that.
The question is, how do I bypass all that and keep the intake/vacuum system happy.
When I coastered it should I have plugged off the other ends of the line that go into the valve in front of the battery?
There are 2 line that go into the surge tank(air box) right above the carbs that take up much needed room for taking the carbs on and off.
I would love to lose them and seal off the holes in the air box.
When I am all done I want the gas cap to just plain vent on its own and just have any plumming needed to make the carbs work.(2 gas lines, 1 vac line to petcock from front carb, rear carb vac plugged and 1 vent hose to right ear)
HOW DO I DO THAT??!!
Can I put a short hose on the gas tank vent(bottom of tank left side blue sticker) with a small crankcase type style air fitler, so the tank vent natuarlly filterd air. Then plug off the other vent on gas tank(right side red sticker)
Then can I pull that whole valve in front of the battery out and seal off the holes in the surge tank(air box)
Does the tank need a vacuum to vent and NOT vapor lock(POOGS)?????
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-11-2012, 02:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adam500 View Post
I have a 05 750 Vulcan. I have the carbs out and just did the coastering mod.
I plugged off the reed valves and plugged the small vac line to the rear carb.
My bike seems to have the CA emmisions kit on it, canister, seperator and all that.
The question is, how do I bypass all that and keep the intake/vacuum system happy.
When I coastered it should I have plugged off the other ends of the line that go into the valve in front of the battery?
There are 2 line that go into the surge tank(air box) right above the carbs that take up much needed room for taking the carbs on and off.
I would love to lose them and seal off the holes in the air box.
When I am all done I want the gas cap to just plain vent on its own and just have any plumming needed to make the carbs work.(2 gas lines, 1 vac line to petcock from front carb, rear carb vac plugged and 1 vent hose to right ear)
HOW DO I DO THAT??!!
Can I put a short hose on the gas tank vent(bottom of tank left side blue sticker) with a small crankcase type style air fitler, so the tank vent natuarlly filterd air. Then plug off the other vent on gas tank(right side red sticker)
Then can I pull that whole valve in front of the battery out and seal off the holes in the surge tank(air box)
Does the tank need a vacuum to vent and NOT vapor lock(POOGS)?????
Pull off the canister and pitch it,run your vent lines from the back of the tank towards the bottom of the bike and away from the exhaust and leave them open.Yes you can plug the holes in the surge tank .Your idea for the carb plumbing is right except for the float bowl vent tube, it is in the middle of the carbs it must be stuck in the right ear or air filter housing ,whatever you want o call it and it won't actually hook to anything it just shoves in the back side of the housing to keep it out of the wind,which can cause surging at speed.Cut the end of it at an angle before you shove it in there to keep it from bottoming out .Or you can tuck it up under the gas tank to keep it out of the airflow and zip tie it so it doesn't fall don don't plug any vent lines just he one Vacuum port you mentioned on the carb and it should run fine.Just drop all the vent lines down toward the ground and secure them to the frame in case it spits up on a hot day(unlikely), this includes the one under the tank.I haven't fooled with a CA tank but this should work,if not some one will voice an opinion ,it's up to you to decide if they know what they are talking about.

You never mentioned it but I guess you have already removed the vacuum operated with the hoses that goes to the reed valves.If not pitch it too and all associated hoses.

P.s. I went back and reread your post you already have most of this covered,just tidy things up and get rid of the excess smog junk.And do not put vaccum on the tank vents leave them open to the atmosphere with the hoses I mentioned running out the bottom of the bike.




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Last edited by denny6006; 02-11-2012 at 02:20 PM.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-11-2012, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
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Sweet. thanks for the fast reponse!
I will run 2 new vent lines from the bottom of the gas tank to the rear of the bike, yank out the valve in front of the battery, plug off the 2 holes in the surge tank/airbox and plug the vac line on the rear carb.
This is all I have to do, correct?
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-11-2012, 04:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denny6006 View Post
Your idea for the carb plumbing is right except for the float bowl vent tube, it is in the middle of the carbs it must be stuck in the right ear or air filter housing ,whatever you want o call it and it won't actually hook to anything it just shoves in the back side of the housing to keep it out of the wind,which can cause surging at speed.Cut the end of it at an angle before you shove it in there to keep it from bottoming out .
Here is a picture of the slotted hole in the back of the right "ear" where the carb vent line goes.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/leekayd...7600772238066/

As Denny mentioned, cut the end of the vent hose off at 45* so that the cut portion faces the slot when the hose is slid in. This ensures that the vent will not become blocked off or plugged up.

Gordon

1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

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TOP TEN THINGS A NEW RIDER/OWNER SHOULD DO. Click on link.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-11-2012, 05:15 PM
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x2^,Ol Hoss is pretty good at finding the links,appreciate it Gordon




If you see it on my bike I did it
VROC#30324
92 vn750(sold)
Current ride 05 1500 Classic FI
lovin' the new scoot



Quote:
"When all is said and done,usually more is said than done" UNK
Click on one x and drag to the other to read between them.

Psalm 40:1...
XI waited patiently for the Lord; and he turned unto me, and heard my cry. X
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-12-2012, 12:38 AM
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Had you considered doing an ear shave. With what you have ask about doing. Its only a few parts and maybe a few additional steps. And you'll open up your bikes power curve.

As my vulcan came to me with with everything that u asked about done to it. I'm going to do the ear shave as I put everything back together.

Here's the name of the thread that gives full detail on how to do it
Ear Shave Procedure - Enjoy! VoIP Doc.

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85 VN700
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-12-2012, 08:47 PM
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Heres part of a post I made on another thread. It seems to fit your situation, so I reposted it here. I noticed you already installed "coasters", which is the neatest looking way to go.

I am not a fan of the earshave thing, because there are no filters I'm aware of that work well enough to satisfy me that attach directly to the carbs. The earshave procedure seems to have become somewhat of a fad, and I feel many people may be doing it without realizing the possible consequences. From a mechanical point of view, it would be perfectly acceptable, IF you could get filters that matched the filtering ability of the stock filters. With filters like that, you would not need to rejet. From an aesthetic point of view, IMO, removing the "ears" makes it look like something is missing, but that is a subjective thing. The poor filtering ability of the K&N pod filters is real. More air flow means more dirt flow.



For a CA model I recommend removing the ENTIRE evap system, including the rectangular box and round thing down in front of the rear wheel. I even removed the bracket they attached to. Remove the hose that goes to the airbox, and plug the hole. On the rear of the fuel tank, where there are 2 fittings, take a separate hose and connect it to each one. Route the hoses down underneath the bike somewhere. You can use a zip tie to secure the ends of the hoses under the bike, just don't make it so tight it pinches the hoses.


Whether it is a CA model or not, it will have an air injection system. This system is a real can of worms. Get rid of it. Start by disconnecting the air hoses from the covers on the cylinder heads. There is one on each head. Then either plug the fittings where with rubber caps, or replace the covers altogether with "coasters" These are covers without the hose fittings, and look better, but are more expensive than a couple of rubber caps. Now go back to where the other ends of those hoses connect to a 3 way valve under the seat. You will find another large hose and one small hose on that valve. Remove the large hose from the airbox, and plug the hole. Remove the small hose from the rear carb, and plug the fitting on the carb. What you should have in your hands at this point is a big ugly looking thing that looks something like an octopus. You will have the 3 way valve, with 3 large rubber hoses and one small rubber hose connected to it. Save the rubber hoses, just in case you might need them for something else.


Now for the carb vents. There is a separate vent hose connected to each carb, which connects to a T fitting, turning it into one hose, which plugs into a hole in the right air cleaner housing. Connecting both hoses to the T fitting restricts airflow, and may result in the carbs not being properly vented. Rip the whole system off the carbs and the right air cleaner housing. Get 2 new hoses, connect one to each carb, and run them down below the bike somewhere, just like the 2 hoses from the fuel tank, and leave the ends open.

If it hasn't been done already, remove the caps from the carbs covering the pilot screws, carefully turn each screw in until it seats, then back it out at least 2 1/2 turns.

This is how I have my bike set up, and it runs great. And just to make you feel better, it is no longer EPA compliant, so you win, not the gvt.



Once you get rid of all the garbage, the Vulcan 750 fuel system is really quite simple.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
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