Alternatives to carb rebuild? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Carbs and Fuel System
From the gas tank to the carbs
All fuel system discussion

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-27-2006, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
storm16's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Virginia
Posts: 147
iTrader: (0)
 
Alternatives to carb rebuild?

I'm posting this to get a sanity check from you all for my '85 VN700...

I talked to a mechanic yesterday, and described my sypmptoms to him. In a nutshell, when I bought the bike, the tank leaked. It had been ridden a couple of hours in the last several months while they fixed the tank. I completed the fix, and put about 1/2 tank of gas in it. Initially, I was having the problem of it dying when warmed up, which got progressively worse. Now I can start it, but it will not stay running...And when I give it throttle, it dies. I have seen other posts with folks saying when the tank gets down to a certain level, it doesn't run right. I haven't tried filling it up yet.

In any case, the mechanic said that it sounds like the carbs need to be rebuilt. Since the bike is 21 years old and has 21k miles on it, it probably does need to be rebuilt. I told him that I had SeaFoam in the tank, and he stated that from the symptoms, at this point, any chemicals I use would probably not work, and in fact might actually do damage to the carbs. (I am using SeaFoam and had planned on blasting carb cleaner in the ears.) I told him that the bike had sat for the better part of this year. He said that in order for the carbs to get as screwed up as the symptoms indicated would require the bike to have sat for 1-2 years.

What I was wondering is whether this sounds valid. In general, I trust the owners of the shop, but have never met the mechanic...Though I have an implied trust in him through this shop. But all things being equal, I would rather get it running now (I wanna ride!) and have the carbs cleaned later (like over the winter). Is using carb cleaner going to damage anything? I'd do the rebuild now, but it looks like I may be buying a car in the near-to-mid future, my wife's explorer's transmission seems to be dying. So if there is any cheaper route to getting her running in the short-term that won't involve my having to completely replace the carbs later, I would love to hear it.

--Storm16

Storm16
Culpeper, VA
1985 VN700A1 "WindRider"
21,500 miles (9/07)
R/R relocate (9/07)
AGM Battery (10/07)

Last edited by storm16; 07-27-2006 at 04:24 PM.
storm16 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-27-2006, 04:25 PM
Once Banned
 
cegodsey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Bryant, Arkansas
Posts: 2,125
iTrader: (0)
 
Blasting carb cleaner in the ears won't do a lot of good, if you think the ears go directly to the carbs. Instead, they go to an air chamber under the tank, and from there to the carbs. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Sea Foam makes a spray version, by the way. The ingredients to Sea Foam are pale oil, isopropyl alcohol, and naptha. The naptha is primarily for cleaning. It won't hurt your carbs. It's what dry cleaners use on your clothes. I imagine that the dealer doesn't know what Sea Foam is, or is just trying to keep their mechanics employed. Continue to run it through the engine. And you need to fill your tank. When you put the bike away for the winter you are supposed to remove the tank and add some oil to it, then swish the oil around to coat the tank and prevent rusting. Seeing how you are using the tank, you need to keep it full so that it won't continue to rust.

But what you most likely need to do is take the carbs off yourself and clean them. We can guide you through the process, if need be. You can have this done in less than a day, and be out riding that day or the next. 21K miles is not much to warrant a rebuild. But a motorcycle (or any engine) that has been driven little over time will more than likely have crud in the carbs. It's due to breakdown of the gas, and condensation of water.

2000 A16
Drilled baffles
$65 leather saddle bags
Kuryaken grips
relocated R/R
de-badged
25,000+ original owner miles
cegodsey is offline  
post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-27-2006, 05:03 PM
Member
 
TheBoy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Elgin, IL
Posts: 69
iTrader: (0)
 
Send a message via AIM to TheBoy
cegodsey is right, you rcarbs should not need to be rebuilt. But if you have the time and confidence, do it yourself. Cleaning is not as hard as some people think, just dont use anything sharp! I have an 1986 VN750 and it sat for 3 years, i need a rebuild for my carbs do the samething (Backfire and spudder). But i have seen people take there bike out 1 a month and theres seems to be fine.
TheBoy is offline  
 
post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-28-2006, 06:37 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
storm16's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Virginia
Posts: 147
iTrader: (0)
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cegodsey
Blasting carb cleaner in the ears won't do a lot of good, if you think the ears go directly to the carbs. Instead, they go to an air chamber under the tank, and from there to the carbs. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Sea Foam makes a spray version, by the way. The ingredients to Sea Foam are pale oil, isopropyl alcohol, and naptha. The naptha is primarily for cleaning. It won't hurt your carbs. It's what dry cleaners use on your clothes. I imagine that the dealer doesn't know what Sea Foam is, or is just trying to keep their mechanics employed. Continue to run it through the engine. And you need to fill your tank. When you put the bike away for the winter you are supposed to remove the tank and add some oil to it, then swish the oil around to coat the tank and prevent rusting. Seeing how you are using the tank, you need to keep it full so that it won't continue to rust.

But what you most likely need to do is take the carbs off yourself and clean them. We can guide you through the process, if need be. You can have this done in less than a day, and be out riding that day or the next. 21K miles is not much to warrant a rebuild. But a motorcycle (or any engine) that has been driven little over time will more than likely have crud in the carbs. It's due to breakdown of the gas, and condensation of water.
I'm game for this. In fact, thats originally what I wanted to do. However, while I have done some work on cars, I have never worked on motorcycles, and especially not carbs, so I wanted someone there with a clue. But if its easy enough to be explained, I'll have a go at it. Maybe I will even go ahead and have a buddy bring his digital camera over and take pictures and put together a howto doc like someone did with the drive splines. How does one go about it?

Storm16
Culpeper, VA
1985 VN700A1 "WindRider"
21,500 miles (9/07)
R/R relocate (9/07)
AGM Battery (10/07)
storm16 is offline  
post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-30-2006, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
storm16's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Virginia
Posts: 147
iTrader: (0)
 
I just ordered a Clymer manual for this bike. Does it have specific instructions for carb cleaning?

Storm16
Culpeper, VA
1985 VN700A1 "WindRider"
21,500 miles (9/07)
R/R relocate (9/07)
AGM Battery (10/07)
storm16 is offline  
post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-30-2006, 02:08 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 113
iTrader: (0)
 
Post a picture of bike , I would like to see it. Thanks

--bye , bilyum--
bilyum is offline  
post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-30-2006, 06:06 PM
Once Banned
 
cegodsey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Bryant, Arkansas
Posts: 2,125
iTrader: (0)
 
Hmmm, I don't know. I don't know if my shop manual does. Except for specs, I usually don't look at the manual for carb rebuilds.

2000 A16
Drilled baffles
$65 leather saddle bags
Kuryaken grips
relocated R/R
de-badged
25,000+ original owner miles
cegodsey is offline  
post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-31-2006, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
storm16's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Virginia
Posts: 147
iTrader: (0)
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bilyum
Post a picture of bike , I would like to see it. Thanks
I will, but it looks pretty much identical to yours...

Storm16
Culpeper, VA
1985 VN700A1 "WindRider"
21,500 miles (9/07)
R/R relocate (9/07)
AGM Battery (10/07)
storm16 is offline  
post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-31-2006, 02:16 PM
Members who have donated towards server costs
 
Sky Rider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Corpus Christi, Texas
Posts: 1,647
iTrader: (0)
 
The Clymer's has detailed instructions and pics for tearing down, cleaning and rebuilding the carbs. Removing them is an exercise in patience so be warned that it isn't easy but it is doable.

Jim W
93 VN 750 "Ursula"
Moved R/R 08Sep06
R/R rewire 17Feb07
New R/R, Installed 14Jun08
New Stator installed 10 Jun08
Maintenance Free Battery 12Jan08
21480 Miles
VROC #8542
Sky Rider is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

Once registered, your User Name"cannot be changed". We can make exceptions within 7 days, but after that, it is set in stone.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome