More problems. Awesome! - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Carbs and Fuel System
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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-11-2011, 09:46 PM Thread Starter
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More problems. Awesome!

Ok, this isnt anything new about my bike, really, except that its just getting worse. My carburetors like to load up to the point where the carburetors will leak from every crack and crevice imaginable, and I can usually fix that for a spell buy cleaning out the little bowls on the bottom of the carbs, and cleaning off my plugs....however, this time no matter how much I clean the god damn carbs, and the plugs, the carbs will load up IMMEDIATELY upon starting the bike...Now, I can turn my gas off in mid ride when the bike starts to flood, which will cause it to run half assed for a bit, and then turn it back on when the carbs need gas...but that doesnt make for a very fun ride....especially when I ride every day. Well, I had to do the whole cleaning procedure again last friday, and when I pulled the bowls off they were filled with rust, which was expected, but my plugs looked fine? I checked to make sure that all the plugs were firing, and they were..so..Im kind of confused here....why in the **** is my bike flooding so quickly? Floats? Timing? any ideas? Ive tried banging on the carbs to see if they floats will free themselves up, but Im not even sure thats whats wrong....Im starting to get pretty fed up with this bike, and Im about ready to sell it, or scrap it. One or the other.
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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-11-2011, 10:00 PM
If only it had 6th gear..
 
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Floats. One or both sticking or cracked so they've become sinks. If you can get it to run somewhat by turning the fuel off, the rest of the components in the carbs are trying to work but your floats aren't shutting off the flow when the carbs fill up. Could also be the float valves and seats have crap between them so even if the float linkage is trying to close the valve the crap is keeping it from sealing like a piece of garbage between a sink drain and plug. That is more common than a cracked float with the curent poor excuse for gasoline we're forced to use and pay through the nose for. Don't scrap it because of something like this. Pour some straight seafoam into the fuel lines with the carb drain screws opened until you see the seafoam drip out then close them and fill the lines. Let it sit over night and take a hammer using handle end rap on the sides of each carb a few times, drain the seafoam and fill with fuel and see what happens. 50/50 man, you may have to take them apart but it's worth trying. I had to pull mine and disassemble to fix but others have been successful freeing up a float.

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Last edited by DavesVulster; 12-11-2011 at 10:17 PM.
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post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-11-2011, 10:44 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, man. I realllly dont want to pull that carbs because of how much of a pain in the ass they are. I may try a can of seafoam, because I have had decent results with it once before. Now..Assuming the floats are cracked and taking in fuel, where the hell do I buy a rebuild kit for these things?
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post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-11-2011, 10:58 PM
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You said the bowls were full of rust. I'd start with cleaning the tank cause thats where the rust is coming from. Rust can be getting built up on the needle and seat letting the fuel continuiosly flow to the carbs. There are people here who have delt with the rusty tank issues. Maybe they will chime in with the cleaning trick. I haven't had that problem myself.
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post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-11-2011, 11:06 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, my tank definitely has some rust in it...its been coated, but a lot of good thats done for me...
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post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-11-2011, 11:07 PM
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Try removing the fuel lines at the carbs and spraying carb cleaner into the bowls. Also drain the carbs several times. This will help clean the carb seats. Hope this helps you.

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post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-11-2011, 11:16 PM
If only it had 6th gear..
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ClassicFkinAllen View Post
Yeah, my tank definitely has some rust in it...its been coated, but a lot of good thats done for me...
Yeah man, sometimes the coating can make things worse. Doubt the floats are cracked. Probably the rust like Chuck A. Said. I've seen rebuild kits on ebay,and there's cheapcycleparts.com who has an online manual for these bikes, but you may not need to go that far. Try the cleanout first and update us. Good luck.

Dave

Mods:
Jetted, shaved & coastered
Home made under-tank single filter
Converted ACCT's to manual (thanks wib714)
Dual vac lines on petcock (my cure for ticking)
LED tail/plate lights
Relocated helmet lock to license plate

Added stuff:
Customized hard bags w/ lights
Chrome levers
Hellcat windscreen
LED running lights
Home made 'Vita-Volt' meter
Foot rests on engine guard
Tunes

Hmm....she was on the back when we left.... ??
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post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-11-2011, 11:27 PM Thread Starter
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..uggghh......Ok. I guess Ill pull these things out sometimes between monday and....eventually. I hate it so much, but Ill do it. haha.
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post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-12-2011, 02:26 AM
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Pulling the carbs really gets easier with practice. I've pulled them a whole bunch of times and I can definitely do it a lot faster now than the first couple of times I did it.

I live in a place where there's lots of sand everywhere, so I have carb problems every couple of months or so.
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post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-12-2011, 09:16 AM
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Sounds like another failed tank sealer job. The PO of my bike had it Kreemed "professionally". Another example of a stealership selling a rube what he didn't need! When I got the Kreem out and the rust cleaned up, there were no pin holes. If a tank isn't leaking, there's no reason to seal it!

You are going to have to remove the sealant, and paint stripper works best for this. Remove the cap, gas gauge unit and petcock. Use good quality duct tape to seal the openings in the tank. Get good quality stripper. Add two quarts to the tank, swirl it around to coat the entire surface, and give it plenty of time to work. Reswirl as needed. A long screwdriver will help scrape what you can see off. A mechanic's mirror can help you see inside the tank. Dont get any stripper on the outside of the tank or the paint will be damaged. Once all the sealant is liquified, flush the tank with water, again being careful to keep the contents off the outside of the tank.

With the sealant out of the tank, seal the bottom openings of the tank with tape again. Add a quart of The Works toilet bowl cleaner (about $1.30 at WalMart) to the tank through the cap opening and seal that opening with tape. Swirl it around so it covers the entire surface and let it sit for 5-10 minutes. Repeat three times. Lift the tape and check the inside. If it's not shiney, reseal and continue swirling. If the rust is extremely heavy, you can add a handful of small metal nuts and shake them around. Count the number of nuts and make sure you get them all out when finished. A magnet works well for this. Or you can put the nuts in a nylon bag and retrieve the bag with mechanical fingers or long needle-nosed pliers. The toilet bowl cleaner can be run through a coffee filter and used to clean the toilet (works good!) or flushed. Don't pour it on the ground, it will kill the grass.

Rinse the tank thoroughly to get all the acid and rust out. In my climate, flash rust formed almost immediately. I added some OsPho (phosphoric acid) to the tank and it turned the rust to an inert black material. Dry the tank with a leaf blower, hair dryer, or a vacuum cleaner that can be set to blow into the tank.

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
_____________________________________________
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1989 VN750 acquired December, 2008, 6,711 miles
Currently 23,298 miles

Old Blue
2001 Honda CMX250 Rebel acquired July, 2008

1987 VN750 project bike, acquired August, 2009, 33,000 miles and balancer sticking out of the case, currently awaiting attention and parts
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