Carb Cleaning Time - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Carbs and Fuel System
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-23-2011, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
Ndr
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Carb Cleaning Time

So, after a mostly successful road test of the Vulcan, It seems that I need to pull the carbs off for a nice good cleaning.

Bike wants to stall out while idling. Seems to be OK if I hold the throttle open a little bit, doesn't take much. I'm not able to adjust the idle adjustment screw as it is frozen in place and won't move.

SO, the question here is: How the heck to I get the stupid surge tank out without a sawzall. (I'm not completely sure yet that I want to do an ear shave)
Seems to me that I have to be able to lift the surge tank up out of the way to get at the carbs. It certainly doesn't seem possible to get the air inlet tube away from the carbs with the Surge tank attached...

Other Items I also want to check of course make sure that my vent tubes aren't clogged (though I was running a full tank) Also want to make sure the brand new air filters weren't over oiled, and also check the plugs to see what they are looking like after the run.

......I'd rather wake up in the middle of nowhere then in any city on earth.

*2014 VN900 Custom (16,200 miles and counting)
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-24-2011, 01:02 AM
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I'm unclear as to why you'd want to remove the surge tank if you're not going to do an earshave. The carb inlet boots are easier than you think to get out; I've pulled 'em and put 'em back in 3 or 4 times in just a couple hours before, for one reason or another.

Any way you look at it, to pull the surge tank without cutting it, you're gonna have to pull the radiator and drop the engine enuff to either pull the surge tank out the front, or twist and pull on it to get it out the top.

Jim

J.D.
Kerrville, TX
'95 Vulcan 750 "Therapy II",
aka "Raggedy Ann"
'95 VN750 project
'03 VN800B "The Little Black"
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-24-2011, 09:48 AM Thread Starter
Ndr
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Thanks, I'll take another look at the carb inlet boots to see if I can figure it out.

......I'd rather wake up in the middle of nowhere then in any city on earth.

*2014 VN900 Custom (16,200 miles and counting)
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-26-2011, 12:38 AM Thread Starter
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OK
So I've got the carbs off the bike and disassembled, and I've into a possible problem. My front float is half filled with liquid. (I assume gas) However, I cant seem to find any cracks, pinholes, or any other obvious means of a leak for the gas to have gotten in.
putting each float in turn on my scale, the front float with the fluid weighs almost exactly double what the rear one does -8 grams rear, 16 grams front (give or take a couple of grains)
Is this possibly normal (perhaps a method to balance the floats?) or am I looking at ordering a new float?

......I'd rather wake up in the middle of nowhere then in any city on earth.

*2014 VN900 Custom (16,200 miles and counting)
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-26-2011, 01:08 AM
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You're looking at getting another float; there's a hole in that one somewhere.

J.D.
Kerrville, TX
'95 Vulcan 750 "Therapy II",
aka "Raggedy Ann"
'95 VN750 project
'03 VN800B "The Little Black"
'04 VN800E Drifter project
'93 VN1500A custom project
VROC #16185
GCVROC #33

Photo album: http://www.flickr.com/photos/leekayd/sets
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-26-2011, 07:11 AM
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Ndr,

That is not normal. you are looking at needing to get another float for the front. Looks like there are some on Ebay for like 15 bones (would post a link but stupid governemnt computers lock Ebay for some reason... like my productivity at work would go down or something...) .

As a learning process (once new float obtained) you and submerge the damaged one and see where the bubbles come from. Sometimes the holes are not glaring, and being so small can still cause an issue.

Best of luck, let us know how the bike does once you get the carbs cleaned and that float replace.

Kevin
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-26-2011, 08:00 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, that's pretty much what I thought.

......I'd rather wake up in the middle of nowhere then in any city on earth.

*2014 VN900 Custom (16,200 miles and counting)
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-27-2011, 05:09 PM
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Yes, you definitely need a new float. That one has sprung a leak and sunk. I hope you decide not to do the earshave thing, it's a neat idea, and simplifies things considerably, and I like simple. And the Vulcan's intake system is a convoluted nightmare. But I still have to recommend against the earshave if you plan to keep the bike a long time (I have 70,000 miles on mine, and plan to wear it out) because when you do the earshave you have to use air filters that do not filter as well as the stock filters, letting dirt enter the engine, and shortening it's life. I want as many miles as I can get, plus I actually like the ears.

The carbs are not THAT difficult to remove and reinstall, I have done it 3 times total on 2 different Vulcan 750s. Remove everything that can possibly get in the way, and definitely the tank. Remove the 2 rubber ducks, er, ducts, between the surge tank and carbs. If you still have the air injection system installed, now would definitely be a good time to remove that. Removing that does NOT harm the engine. It does require plugging the hole in the surge tank where the hose from the 3 way valve under the seat goes.

Anyway, with the tank out of the way, and the ducts removed, wrap something around the surge tank and the frame backbone tube, and tie it up out of the way, so it won't keep falling down (yes, Kawasaki should have made it removable without pulling the engine, but then there are a LOT of things they should have done differently on this bike that they didn't) Once you have the surge tank tied up out of the way, disconnect everything from the carbs EXCEPT the throttle cables, loosen the manifold clamps, spray lots of WD-40 between the manifolds and carbs, and slowly and carefully work them out the right side. Since you already have them out, you are halfway there. They go back the same way, get everything out of the way, tie up the surge tank, and soak the manifolds and carb outlets in WD. They will slip into place fairly easily. There is almost no maneuvering room, but they will fit. Patience is the key here, as they will fit only one way. The WD makes them slip right into the manifolds when you get them lined up just right. It will be a tight fit, as they will not want to line up with both manifolds at once. Again, there is where the WD-40 comes in real handy.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-27-2011, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Jerry!

to be able to lift the tank up, will I need to pull the coolant/radiator hose out of the way, as well as the wiring harness? Or should I have enough room to wiggle the surge tank up and around those? Granted, I guess I will have to play around with it once I get my new float and everything put back together to see what kind of room I will really have.

......I'd rather wake up in the middle of nowhere then in any city on earth.

*2014 VN900 Custom (16,200 miles and counting)
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