Black Plastic Carb Inlet Nipple - Page 2 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #11 of 55 (permalink) Old 10-15-2011, 03:27 PM Thread Starter
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Great idea there HOSS, sounds like ya been down that road a few times yourself. I prefer the ice No black flash from that, but, i will surely remb the propane trick to! Could probably just put in a freezer over night to, that works also. Lets see if others chime in with their thoughts also.


Vulcan #1 1993 - 28K
Vulcan #2 1999 - 26k
It All Comes Down To 3 Things:
#1 Fuel
#2 Spark
#3 Mechanical
Any One Fails - Then It Dont Run

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post #12 of 55 (permalink) Old 10-15-2011, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by OldHipWesTex View Post
Great idea there HOSS, sounds like ya been down that road a few times yourself. I prefer the ice No black flash from that, but, i will surely remb the propane trick to! Could probably just put in a freezer over night to, that works also. Lets see if others chime in with their thoughts also.
Yeah, a piece of brass that small would probably shrink to the minimum size with just a few minutes in the freezer.

Gordon

1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

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July 13, 2016, Riding on the DARKSIDE now, Classic Radial 165/80-15


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post #13 of 55 (permalink) Old 10-22-2011, 06:56 PM
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Here are some pictures of the fuel inlets to the carbs that i fixed. It kinda drives ya crazy when you stop your bike and look down and see drip... drip... drip of raw fuel from those black plastic carb fuel line inlets.
The black plastic inlets were cracked on both carbs so i elected to break the inlets off and that then let me have access to the brass factory pressed in fittings.
If your thinking about replacing the inlets then be carefull when taking the brass factory plugs out. I found that by drilling the hole in the brass plug bigger and with a second drill bit even bigger that the plugs will just slide out with a pair of pliers. Caution: when drilling the hole bigger to get the factory plug out, be carefull not to drill to deep or you will push the drill bit out the side of the plate. I measured how deep the factory pressed in plug went then marked how deep to drill with the drill bits. Think about it before drilling to deep.
After the factory pressed plugs were removed i then tapped the holes in the plate to accept a brass fitting, aka from Aceeee Hardware. Hope this helps someone out in the future. Ive received lots of help from the forum here and thought i'd pass on a few pictures of how things were done in hopes it helps someone else in the future.
Good Luck Ridders.
If She Rides Good Then Keep Her - She May Be 27 Years Old But Shes As Wild As An 18 Year Old !
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Curious as to whether you used a sealer of any kind on the threads; I'm about to do the same thing to a set of carbs I've got.

Jim

J.D.
Kerrville, TX
'95 Vulcan 750 "Therapy II",
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post #14 of 55 (permalink) Old 10-22-2011, 11:48 PM Thread Starter
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The only sealer i used was teflon tape in case i want to remove the brass again so it will come out easier. Good luck on the refit!


Vulcan #1 1993 - 28K
Vulcan #2 1999 - 26k
It All Comes Down To 3 Things:
#1 Fuel
#2 Spark
#3 Mechanical
Any One Fails - Then It Dont Run

____________________________________

ANTICIPATED MODS:
Build Fiberglass Fenders F/R
Mold & Cast New Turn Signals Lights
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post #15 of 55 (permalink) Old 10-23-2011, 12:08 AM
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The only sealer i used was teflon tape in case i want to remove the brass again so it will come out easier. Good luck on the refit!
Teflon tape was what I was thinkin', and thanks; could get interestin'...

Jim

J.D.
Kerrville, TX
'95 Vulcan 750 "Therapy II",
aka "Raggedy Ann"
'95 VN750 project
'03 VN800B "The Little Black"
'04 VN800E Drifter project
'93 VN1500A custom project
VROC #16185
GCVROC #33

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post #16 of 55 (permalink) Old 10-23-2011, 10:08 AM
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I think super glue will make a good sealer for this application.

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post #17 of 55 (permalink) Old 10-23-2011, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldHipWesTex View Post
The only sealer i used was teflon tape in case i want to remove the brass again so it will come out easier. Good luck on the refit!
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I think super glue will make a good sealer for this application.
The super glue would act similar to Locktite threadlocker I believe.
I think he used the teflon tape to get a good mechanical seal, without a chemical "glue" that would have to be broken to remove the brass fitting in the future.

Gordon

1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

H-D windshield
Relocated R/R
MF-AGM battery
Fiamm Freeway Blaster horns
F&S luggage rack and engine guard
Kury Offset Hiway pegs
July 13, 2016, Riding on the DARKSIDE now, Classic Radial 165/80-15


TOP TEN THINGS A NEW RIDER/OWNER SHOULD DO. Click on link.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9127
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post #18 of 55 (permalink) Old 10-23-2011, 10:48 AM
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Why would you want to remove the brass fitting in the future?

02 honda sabre 1100
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post #19 of 55 (permalink) Old 10-23-2011, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldHipWesTex View Post
The only sealer i used was teflon tape in case i want to remove the brass again so it will come out easier. Good luck on the refit!
Quote:
Originally Posted by niterider View Post
Why would you want to remove the brass fitting in the future?
Don`t know why, but that is what he said.

Gordon

1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

H-D windshield
Relocated R/R
MF-AGM battery
Fiamm Freeway Blaster horns
F&S luggage rack and engine guard
Kury Offset Hiway pegs
July 13, 2016, Riding on the DARKSIDE now, Classic Radial 165/80-15


TOP TEN THINGS A NEW RIDER/OWNER SHOULD DO. Click on link.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9127
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post #20 of 55 (permalink) Old 10-25-2011, 06:53 PM
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Hey ?

The inlet to the carb, if properly cleaned (not sanded or mechanically bored) should accept the new fitting w/o issues. Its TAPERED. And I like the freezer idea. And actually, hitting the fitting with some starting spray (either) will lower the temp considerably too, for a snug fit. Petcock outlets are tapered as well, and mine was leaking a bit on one side, so I backed it out and put a light coating of JB Weld towards the outboard 1/2. But I also knew exactly which position I wanted it in. Dunno if Id do similar to the carb. My other carb has a threadded brass fitting installed with plumbers tape. Tight and no leakes, but I bet gas eats thru it after awhile. I personally would go with no sealant whatsoever and use the taper as its meant.



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