Ear Shave Procedure - Enjoy! - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 338 (permalink) Old 05-19-2011, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
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Ear Shave Procedure - Enjoy!

Last weekend it rained in my neck of the woods so I used the time to do the ear shave and document it.

I can't qualify the difference except to say the bike starts easier and runs better. Seems to run with less effort (if that makes any sense). I would make the change again.

I hope you find the instructions useful.

<< EDIT: JANUARY 2016 >>
Sorry guys, but I deleted the google account associated with the blog thus the reason the link no longer works. Below, find the text version of the blog....I can't figure out how to upload the pics without doing them one at a time. The info below is over five years old so pricing and some sites may be obsolete. Procedure remains the same. ENJOY

Phil’s Ear Shave Procedure

Surprises: All 4 carb/cylinder rubber boot clamps were loose.
One surge tank/carb duct was split (see Figure 1)
Carbs are not separate…It is an assembly! (Guess I should have known, but I didn’t)
Not a surprise: Surge tank is difficult to get out.

Parts: (see Figure 2)
1 Mikuni Needle Shims Item# Price: 009-396 $6.95
2 Keihin 99101-393 Main Jet Size: 142 $13.90
2 n424-22 Pilot/Slow Jet sizes: 42 $13.90
Total $34.75
I purchased these from: Buy Keihin Jets @ PJMotorsports .com

2 Emgo Crank Case Filter $14.95 each
I purchased these from: Emgo Crank Case Filter Assembly - 14-20900 - Phat Performance Parts

2 Coasters $31 pair
I purchased these from: www.shermscycleproducts.com

Tools Used: (see Figure 3)
Phillips Screwdriver, Flat head screwdrivers, 10 mm open-end wrench (lock nuts), 7, 10, & 11mm sockets, sawsall (to cut surge tank). Cleaners.

• Took 6 hours….1 hour spent taking carb out (w/surge tank in!!). 1 hour removing surge tank!!
• A second person would have been a big help!!!!
• All terminology taken from the manual.

OK, Let’s get started:
1. Put the bike on the center stand
2. Remove seat (3 10mm bolts in tool box)
3. Close petcock shutoff valve. Disconnect vacuum line and fuel lines from petcock.
4. Disconnect fuel sensor connector
5. Remove gas tank. (3 11mm bolts)
Remove two screws (10 mm) securing air filters (see Figure 4)….remove filters w/oval air duct that attached to surge tank. (you should now be able to see through the surge tank)
6. Loosen carb surge tank duct clamp screws (see Figure 4). Pry surge tank ducts from surge tank and remove ducts.
7. Pry crank case breather (front of front cylinder) hose from front bottom of surge tank. Twist breather hose so end sticks out left side…..more about this in Step 35
8. Pry emissions hose from rear bottom of surge tank
9. Remove emissions hose from reed valves both sides…remove reed valves
10. Remove vacuum line from right side carb.
11. You should now have four hoses (3 large – 1 small) going to the separator…remove the separator and four hoses. (see Figure 5).
12. Install coasters (see Figure 6) ( I used Form-A-Gasket Sealant)
13. Plug the right side carburetor vacuum lead with a vacuum plug. (see Figure 7)
14. Loosen choke cable lock nut….turn adjuster “in” (toward handle grip) all the way
15. Remove choke cable sheath from bracket of front carb (see Figure 8)
16. Disconnect choke cable from linkage on rear carb

• I wanted to do this without removing the surge tank, but I was forced to remove it because I could not get the carb assembly back in with the surge tank in place. That said, you may want to remove the surge tank now to aid in the removal of the carb assembly. Using a saws-all, I chose to make a single cut as shown in Figure 9 Obviously caution needs to be considered to avoid electrical wiring & coolant hoses.
The larger piece simply pulls out from the rear….the smaller piece out the right side of frame.

NOTE:
The front cylinder carb/cylinder rubber boot will REMAIN ATTACHED the cylinder head during removal of carb assembly

• Loosen the carb-side screw ONLY of the front cylinder carb/cylinder rubber boot. This rubber boot will REMAIN on cylinder! (see Figure 10)
• Loosen the cylinder-side screw ONLY of the rear cylinder carb/cylinder rubber boot. This rubber boot will REMAIN on carb!

17. With the surge tank out and the clamps above loosened, you can now remove the carb assembly. BTW: it is a carburetor ASSEMBLY (both carbs are attached to each other and come out together). Use a twisting action to remove the carbs making sure (as noted before) the rubber boot of front cylinder stays on cylinder and rubber boot of rear cylinder stay with carb.
18. Loosen both throttle lock nuts….turn adjuster “in” (toward handle grip) all the way
19. Loosen throttle cable lock nuts on carb brackets and disconnect both from throttle linkage. Note which cable goes to linkage!! (see Figure 11)

You now have the carb assembly free from the bike

20. The Main & Slow jets are under the bottom cover (see Figure 12) The jet needle in under the top cover (see Figure 14)
21. Remove top cover carefully and gently peel diaphragm from cover. Do not pull the diaphragm & vacuum piston from carb. You will see a spring and plastic bracket covering the jet needle. Set them aside and remove jet needle. Install two shims as shown in Figure 15. Reassemble & install top cover!
22. Repeat step 21 on other carb.
23. Remove bottom cover. Remove and replace main jet (see Figure 13). Remove and replace slow jet (see Figure 13). Reinstall bottom cover.
24. Repeat step 23 on other carb.
25. Take time now to seat (screw in) air mixture screws and back out 2 ½ turns. (see Figure 16).
26. Take time to clean carb assembly
27. Take time to clean the area around the cylinder intakes

It’s time to re-install the carb assembly!

28. Attach throttle cables to throttle wheel linkage…..don’t tighten yet
29. Carefully re-install carb assembly. I found it easier to get the front cylinder connected first, then connected rear….double check to ensure boots are properly installed/aligned.
30. Tighten boot clamp screws
31. Tighten throttle cables to carb brackets. Adjust throttle cables, test throttle operation and tighten lock nuts.
32. Attach choke cable and ensure cable sheath is in the bracket of front carb
33. Adjust & test choke operation…then tighten lock nut
34. Install K&N air filters (see Figure 7)
35. Use your own discretion for connecting crankcase breather hose and carb vents to Emgo filters. See Figure 17 for how I did it with the crankcase breather hose.
36. Install fuel tank…connect carb fuel & vacuum hoses…connect sensor connector
37. Open petcock.
38. Took a few cranks before she came to life…..but when she did, Sweet!!! 

Left exhaust (rear cylinder) had slight popping on decel. I backed out mixture screw another ¼ turn on right (rear) carb.

Hope this was helpful!!!






Some nice-to-know stuff:..
Carb has:
Main jet….Shown in Figures 2 & 13
Slow/Pilot jet…. Shown in Figures 2 & 13
Needle jet…. Shown in Figure 13 (the main jet is IN the needle jet)
Jet needle…. Shown in Figure 15
Connor Lynden and roadpouring like this.

Last edited by VoIPDoc; 01-18-2016 at 09:32 PM. Reason: OlHoss....Thx for catching my mistake.
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post #2 of 338 (permalink) Old 05-19-2011, 04:20 PM
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well done!
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post #3 of 338 (permalink) Old 05-19-2011, 09:48 PM
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great write up for this mod! thank you for posting this for us newbies who wanting to mod our bikes!
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post #4 of 338 (permalink) Old 05-19-2011, 10:13 PM
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Very well done!

JM2001

" Loud Pipes Risk Rights "

2001 Vulcan 750
marbled
TOC upgrade on ACCT
Air/fuel mixture set to 2 1/2 out
rectifier relocated
splines lubed
iridiums
decals removed
upgraded mirrors
Pic up coil mod done
degoated
All LED lighting
Upgraded Mosfet rectifier
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post #5 of 338 (permalink) Old 05-19-2011, 10:25 PM
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Well done, great pics - thanks!

Wish Sherms would make their coasters about a 3/16"-1/4" wider though to cover the entire valve mounting area. Put my coasters on last night and was a little disappointed with that part.
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post #6 of 338 (permalink) Old 05-19-2011, 11:16 PM
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Awesome, now I feel confident about performing this procedure. Thanks so much!

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post #7 of 338 (permalink) Old 05-20-2011, 12:30 AM
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Do you still have this in .pdf format? I'd like to download it and save for the future.

.
.
.
-Az
http://www.asbrand.com

1989 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

Upgrades so Far:
Coastered
R/R relocated
Analog Voltmeter
PFIII Windshield
RAM GPS Mount w/Garmin GPS
Cigarette Lighter Power Adapter
Saddlemen's Classic Explorer Seat
Pro-Tac Driver's Backrest
LED Tail Light
LED Rear Turn Signals
Luggage Rack
Storage Trunk
Engine Guard w/Highway Pegs
Radiator Grill Cover
Turn Signal Relocation Bracket
Saddlebags
Floorboards
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post #8 of 338 (permalink) Old 05-20-2011, 07:12 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abyssdncr View Post
Wish Sherms would make their coasters about a 3/16"-1/4" wider though to cover the entire valve mounting area. Put my coasters on last night and was a little disappointed with that part.
Agreed. I was disappointed too.....slightly larger would look better.
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post #9 of 338 (permalink) Old 05-20-2011, 06:50 PM
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Perfect!!!! This is exactly what I need.
Thanks so much!

1993 VN750 stock
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post #10 of 338 (permalink) Old 05-21-2011, 03:52 PM
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I agree, well done!

One item Ron suggested to me when I did mine was to get a longer bolt for the rear of the tank and a spacer that is about 1/2" or a little less. It made getting the left K&N filter on easier with less contact with the tank seam. You don't notice the lift at all with the seat on.

I obviously need a little more tweaking as my mileage is rather poor (40 mph or so). Very happy with the mod and the look though.
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