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Carbs and Fuel System
From the gas tank to the carbs
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-15-2006, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
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Cool I swear I'm done after this!!

I feel like I'm a royal pain in the butt. I've checked out my Clymer manual and might not be looking in the proper places. I'm wondering how to check my float levels. A buddy of mine told me that my bowls are running dry to quickly because of my float levels and that's what is causing some problems at higher RPM's. I was just wondering what I can do....Any advice as always is greatly appreciative.
Thanks again guys,
You guys ROCK!,
Mikey

Last edited by MikeyMike; 06-15-2006 at 05:28 PM.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-15-2006, 08:40 PM
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As far as I know the float level has to be checked with the carb off the bike. With the fuel bowl removed hold it upside down and I believe the float should be level with the bowl mating surface. If I am wrong someone please correct me.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-16-2006, 03:35 AM
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You have to check the fuel level in each carb to determine if the float height is correct. According to the factory manual, there is a special U-shaped tube that connects to the bottom of the carbs & runs up the side of them. There is a graduated scale on the vertical part of the tube so you can read the fuel level. The engine needs to be running or you will get a false reading when you open the drain screw because the vacuum fuel tap will stop more fuel running into the carbs. You then open the drain screw a little on each carb & the fuel will rise up the tube to the same level as what's in the float bowl. I am sure it's possible to make up a similar piece of pipe to do the job. This can be done with the carbs on the bike. You will need to remove the carbs to make any adjustments to the float though.
Incidentally, if you're only having problems at high RPM's, check the fuel tap filter in the tank. If it is blocked then you will get similar problems. It only takes a bad tank of gas to block this filter very quickly, it has happened to me before. Might pay to check this first as it's a lot easier than making adjustments to the carbs. It's highly unlikely that the float levels would go out of adjustment on their own.
Hope this helps, if you need any more information let me know & i'll try to help.

1991 BMW K1100LT

1980 Suzuki GS1000G

Last edited by Ernie; 06-16-2006 at 04:12 AM.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-16-2006, 02:00 PM Thread Starter
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Earnie,
Thanks a lot and to others who have contributed. I took off the tank and checked out the "filter" at the petcock. It doesn't looked clogged but I'm not sure what color the screen is suppose to be. Any additional help would be great. Also, when I drop SeaFoam in it works like a champ. But only runs second place the next day. Still runs though. And well. Any thoughts?
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-16-2006, 02:30 PM
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Hmm...will to have to do some thinking on that one. Seems weird it runs OK with the Seafoam then goes back to it's old tricks the next day.
One thing to check - are the air filters clogged up? Could be worth a look just in case.
Will have a read through the factory manual to see if I can get any more ideas & get back to you.
By the way, seem to remember the petcock filter is white when it's new but it could become stained brown as it gets older. As long as the fine mesh is clear then it's no problem. Blowing it clean with an airline is a good way of cleaning it.
Will get back to you soon.

1991 BMW K1100LT

1980 Suzuki GS1000G
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-16-2006, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
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Hey Ernie, I didn't really have to check the air filters because they are literally days old. So I did anyways. :-D Another thing that I am noticing is the bike after putting on V&H's is SUCKING UP gas. ::sighs:: I don't know Any ideas?

Mike
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-19-2006, 09:59 PM
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With the V&H's, did you have to rejet?
AFAIK, with an ear shave and aftermarked pipes, performance goes up, gas mileage goes down. Just my .02

Jim W
93 VN 750 "Ursula"
Moved R/R 08Sep06
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New Stator installed 10 Jun08
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-19-2006, 10:21 PM
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MikeyMike,

I took a look in my Clymers and found the fuel level procedure on page 267. It too says you need a special tool but after looking at diagram 68, you could make one with a metal straight edge marked in millemeters and some patience. Find some appropriate tubing and lay it out next to the straight edge and mark it off as per the diagram. Then, follow the procedure of ppg 267-8. Just remember that if the readings are out of spec, you will have to remove the carbs. This is a pain in the rear with the engine in the frame but it is doable. Just follow the directions on page 253 and you will be able to do it.

However, if the engine runs fine after initially adding Sea Foam, I would suspect a partially clogged jet or needle valve. The SF is cleaning it initially but not completely. You may want to remove the bowl bottoms and hit the jet with some compressed air. The bottoms are removable without taking the carbs off the bike. They are held by 2 7mm bolts and you will have to use an open end wrench as there is no room for a socket.


Good Luck and hope this helps.

Jim W
93 VN 750 "Ursula"
Moved R/R 08Sep06
R/R rewire 17Feb07
New R/R, Installed 14Jun08
New Stator installed 10 Jun08
Maintenance Free Battery 12Jan08
21480 Miles
VROC #8542
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