The Works Toilet Cleaner - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-19-2010, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
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The Works Toilet Cleaner

I have decided to use "The Works" toilet cleaner the clear the rust out of my tank. Here are the basic instructions I got from using Search VN750.com. If anyone has any additional pointers let me know.
1. Drain gas from tank and allow to air dry for 24hrs
2. Use 2 cups of drywall screws and shake around to knock of first layer of rust
3. Remove Petcock and plug hole
4. Pour entire bottle of The Works into tank
5. Swish around periodically and soak for 15min
6. Rinse tanks with half a tank of warm water twice
7. Rinse tank with half a tank of warm water plus baking soda twice
8. Blow out tank with compressed air
9. use 1/2 quart of Acetone (im going to use alcohol) to get rid of excess water
10. Blow out tank with compressed air to get access acetone/alcohol out of tank
11. Pour 1 cup of Marvels Mystery Oil and swish around and let set for 24hrs to preven rust action
12. Rinse access marvels mystery oil with a little bit of fuel and then put tank back together put back on bike and fill it up with gas.




Any additional suggestions will be great! I am gathering the supplies today and I will do this tomorrow afternoon. Thanks everybody!
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-19-2010, 05:42 PM
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use the acetone rather than alcohol... the acetone evaporates faster and is a better solvent than alcohol. As for the screws.. ditch them in favor of some ball bearings or bb's (not sure if bb's would be heavy enough though... maybe substitute bb's for #6 or bigger bird shot).

Final step is add fuel and seafoam.. do not forget the seafoam it helps burn out the rest of the conaminates that might be left in the tank, and helps clean out the rest of the fuel system.
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-19-2010, 05:54 PM
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use a rust converter and alow it to dry then coat with a gas tank inner sealer.http://www.kbs-coatings.com/Tank-Sealers_c_7-1-0.html the results will last you longer this way.

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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-19-2010, 05:58 PM
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by the time you spend all the money on the other stuff you could have bought the 40 dollar cycle kit and do it the right way in my own opinion.

Harley sportster fenders
custom raked front end
custom exhaust
vn800 tank and guages
modified seat and recovered
rear frame chopped
custom wiring harness
airbox removed
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-19-2010, 06:06 PM
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You don't have to let the tank air dry. Rinse it out well with water after removing the gas and get started.

To keep from getting acid in the cap, I removed that too. You want The Works to contact the entire inside of the tank, including the top.

I don't think you need that many drywall screws. A handfull of 1/4" metal nuts worked fine, and I had some pretty heavy rust. Count the number of screws or nuts you use to be sure you get them all out. Tying the nuts in a piece of cloth makes removal easier. The acid in The Works does a very good job on rust just by itself.

You don't have to let it sit for 15 minutes between swishes, but you can.

I used acetone and in the process of getting it out of the tank spilled some on the tank. Poof! No paint. So I do not recommend acetone. If you thoroughly rinse the tank with water, no additional rinsing is needed to remove The Works. I would not use baking soda as the particles are hard to remove completely and could be a problem if they reach the carb. Put the Marvel oil in immediately after rinseing and blowing out with compressed air. Flash rust will start almost immediately, and before you can dry the tank (at least in Louisiana humidity). Does Marvel Mystery Oil displace water? I'm not familiar with it. If it doesn't, use WD-40 instead.

One of the tanks I treated had rust that developed under the "professionally" applied Kreem tank liner. So based on that limited experience, I'm not a fan of tank liners. There really is no need for liners unless there are pin holes in the tank. Keeping the tank full to minimize condensation and using Sea Foam occasionally should greatly reduce the chances of more rust forming.

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
_____________________________________________
"Black Beauty"
1989 VN750 acquired December, 2008, 6,711 miles
Currently 23,298 miles

Old Blue
2001 Honda CMX250 Rebel acquired July, 2008

1987 VN750 project bike, acquired August, 2009, 33,000 miles and balancer sticking out of the case, currently awaiting attention and parts

Last edited by flitecontrol; 09-19-2010 at 06:11 PM.
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-19-2010, 06:14 PM
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this all sounds like a lot of work. i think it would be easier to just buy another tank.
just my opinion.





Jeff Brooks
Owensboro KY
'94 Vulcan 750

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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-19-2010, 06:30 PM
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stay away from the kbs and kreem kits both are junk


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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-19-2010, 07:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vulcanjoe View Post
stay away from the kbs and kreem kits both are junk
I have not used those kits (used other purple stuff in my fathers radiator shop) I just found them in a google search. Why do you say they are junk? what issues have you had with them?

Harley sportster fenders
custom raked front end
custom exhaust
vn800 tank and guages
modified seat and recovered
rear frame chopped
custom wiring harness
airbox removed
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-19-2010, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
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What do I use to seal the holes?...also I removed the fuel level sensor, am I right for doing that? and I bought gumout instead of seafoam...which one is better or are the equally the same? I am pretty sure i have a stuck float so I was going to run the gumout through after I got the tank cleaned out!
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-19-2010, 08:40 PM
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Seal the holes with good quality duct tape. Yes, the fuel level sensor needs to come out too. I made some cover plates for the sensor and petcock holes from an aluminum sign. Used duct tape over them as a gasket and had no leaks at all. But tape alone will probably be sufficient to seal them. Lots of folks have done it that way. Just have a water hose handy to rinse off any spills. It will take a while for The Works to harm the paint, so as long as you get it off fairly soon there shouldn't be any damage.

The acetone ate through the duct tape over the cap hole and that's how I messed up the paint.

Gumout and Sea Foam are entirely different formulations. Sea Foam is slower acting and will not harm plastic or rubber parts in the carb. Gumout spray is probably OK as long as you don't soak the carbs in it. You can fill the carbs with straight Sea Foam and leave it for a month and it won't hurt the carb. Not so with Gumout. Some times, a bit of crud can hang the float up. Tapping on it with a screwdriver handle sometimes frees it up.

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
_____________________________________________
"Black Beauty"
1989 VN750 acquired December, 2008, 6,711 miles
Currently 23,298 miles

Old Blue
2001 Honda CMX250 Rebel acquired July, 2008

1987 VN750 project bike, acquired August, 2009, 33,000 miles and balancer sticking out of the case, currently awaiting attention and parts
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