How the heck do i get the floats out! - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-06-2010, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
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How the heck do i get the floats out!

Okay VN750'ers,

I have pulled the carbs and have ran into a hitch with removing the "U-Pin" that holds the floats in the float bowls.

I have tried throwing the float assembly center bracket dealy whopper into a boiling pot of water to loosen the "U-Pin" and immediately attempting to remove the "U-Pin" with needle nose and locking pliers... with no luck and not for a lack of effort.

Is there some sort of Jedi mind trick I can use to remove these stinkin things?

I cannot see any corrosion on what's visible on the "U-Pin" and aside from a little rust residue the carbs already look relatively clean.

This is the only thing that is preventing me from doing a thorough carb cleaning.

Thank you in advance for the help!

-Clint
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-06-2010, 05:28 PM
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I don't think you need to remove the floats for cleaning but if you do want to remove them take a flat head screw driver and gently pry up on the pin. Hopefully you don't break anything in the process.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-06-2010, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply cdaddy; but I have tried a flat head screwdriver, I have tried taking copper wire and wrapping it around the "U-Pin" and pulling on the wire with vice grips, I have tried using a hammer and nail to get under the "U-Pin", and I have tried the needle nose....

This sucker is proving to be a real bugger.

Is it true I may not need to pull the floats?
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-06-2010, 09:15 PM
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I would take care of the jets and just run some seafoam through it to take care of the rest.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-07-2010, 09:32 AM
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Did you try the upside down test to see if your needle is leaking?

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-07-2010, 12:36 PM
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The problem with not removing the float is the needle. If I go into carbs, I make it a habit to replace the float needles at least the first time. Since they seat into the float valve and shut off the fuel flow, any depression in them will eventually cause them to leak. Floats can be adjusted correctly and a bad needle will still cause you problems like a stuck float will. Just my opinion, but I wouldn't skip this part. I know its frustrating not to be able to remove the pin, but hopefully someone on here will step up with a trick or two to help you out!

One more bit of advice, never clean the float valve with anything that could be abrasive. Use a Q-tip or just spray cleaner into the valve, but never use anything metal to try to scrape inside there. This is something I learned from WiredGeorge the carb guru, just passing it on...

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-07-2010, 02:44 PM
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Cindy! Your expertise is needed here!

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-07-2010, 05:18 PM
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I ain't Cindy but I did run into this once I tapped lightly on both sides of the u shaped piece to get the corrosion broken loose and wedged the pointed end of my voltage tester under the end away from the float and pulled on the other end with needle nose pliers and worked it back and forth like pulling a tooth,If you have a windshield pick (screwdriver handle and looks like a pigstail all curled up on the end and pointed)you can work it under the end away from the float and twist and pry on it .X2 on Fergy's advice on cleaning the seats,I got a set another shop had rebuilt, cough ,cough and one seat had a scratch that looked like a human hair and that side poured gas,I ended up replacing the whole center section,to fix it.




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