Carb Install - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Carbs and Fuel System
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-02-2010, 03:04 PM Thread Starter
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Carb Install

Just finished redoing my carbs, and tonight I plan on installing them. Any advice on the easiest way to get them on? Should I put the rubber tubes on the carbs then wiggle them on the motor or should this be done the other way around? Another thing is how can you tell which is the idle cable and which is the throttle cable? Does it make a difference?

1992 Vulcan 750.
Ear shaved and re-jetted.
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-02-2010, 03:10 PM
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Don't have access to manual here, but one boot goes on the carb and the other goes on the head. They must be clocked a certain way so that the pitch/angle is correct (also in manual).

Use plenty of WD40 to lube up the areas you are trying to mesh togehter, it helps.

One is the open and the other is the close cable. Turn the throttle while watching the cables and you will know which is which.

Jon

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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-02-2010, 03:11 PM
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Do you still have the stock air box/system?

When I did mine recently, I had a hard time getting my gorilla mitts in the tight space with that box in the way. Lance328 has some good tips for getting the box up as much as possible but it's a fight with that box in there. If you pulled the air box and did the ear shave, that opens up the cavity a little better.

I slid mine in from the left side. It takes some finesse getting the carb in place, but truly you'll just have to fiddle with it until it goes in. Then, mounting the carbs on the boots was easy with a little wd40 on the inside of each boot.

It took me about 20 minutes to do this the first time then I had to pull it immediately and I cut the second attempt in half.

Good luck!

NIL ILLEGITIMUS CARBORUNDUM

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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-02-2010, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
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Yea I did the ear shave and air box was removed. Sounds like its going to be an adventure..

1992 Vulcan 750.
Ear shaved and re-jetted.
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-02-2010, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by theone2043 View Post
Yea I did the ear shave and air box was removed. Sounds like its going to be an adventure..
No problem. Keep both boots on the cylinders and make sure the boots are lined up correctly to the cylinder. Install the push and pull throttle cables but do not mount them in their holders until carbs are in. Spray some WD_40 on the boots an pop in the carbs from the right side.


85 VN700 "Old Yella"

REBUILT ENGINE
CUSTOM PAINT
VANCE & HINES CRUZERS
EAR SHAVED AND RE-JETTED W/K&N'S
DUNLOP ELITE K591 FRONT & REAR
VOLTMETER
SYNTHETIC BRAKE FLUID
SYNTHETIC OIL & GEAR LUBE
PLEXISTAR 2 WINDSHIELD
SPLINES LUBED
ACCT'S GREASED W/TOC SPRINGS
COASTERD
LEATHER SADDLE BAGS
LEATHER TOOL AND ROLL BAG
PICKUP COILS GAPPED AT .018"
NGK CAP, WIRES, IRIDUMS
BARNETT FRICTION PLATES & SPRINGS
CUSTOM GRIPS, MIRRORS, LEVERS
ORIGINAL STATOR & R/R 14.5v
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-02-2010, 05:24 PM
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WD is a good idea on the rubber boots and so is a warm room or use a heat lamp on the rubber parts before you try to assemble.

DT

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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-03-2010, 08:04 AM Thread Starter
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Ok well I was able to get the carbs in last night, I am having a major issue with connecting the choke and adjusting the open/close cables. I believe I have them in the respective holders but the pull cable is not pulling the throttle closed. Any insight on what I may be doing wrong.

**It seems that the choke spring and holder are in the wrong place. I will now have to take the carbs off and see if I can swap them. So one issue down just on to the throttle cables. That is whats giving me the most trouble.

1992 Vulcan 750.
Ear shaved and re-jetted.

Last edited by theone2043; 04-03-2010 at 08:22 AM.
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-04-2010, 10:40 AM
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Without the airbox it will be easy. I just removed mine, and put them back WITH the airbox, and it was no fun at all. I had already removed the CA evap system and the air injection system, so those were out of the way. I removed both "ducts" that go between the carbs and airbox first, and put them back last. With lots of WD40, it's not that hard, they are so squishable you can just wad them up to get them into place. You need a Maglite, or some other small but bright flashlight to make sure they are properly seated in the airbox. DO NOT use a screwdriver. I poked a hole in one of the ducts that way once. But you don't have to worry about putting those back on. But you may have to remove and reinstall the carbs again. I removed mine with the throttle cables still attached, and put them back that way. It is virtually impossible to install the throttle cables with the carbs installed. The choke cable is not that difficult.


IMO, this is one of the worst designed setups I've ever seen, even removing/reinstalling the carbs on a Suzuki Intruder 800 is easy by comparison. But with plenty of time and patience, the right "feel", and doing everything in the proper order, it is not as bad as it first looks. I have fairly large hands, but after having been a mechanic all my life, I am good at manipulating parts in tight spaces. If you are "fighting" with it, give it up, go do something else, change your attitude, and come back. They do fit, it's just that everything has to be in exactly the right position, as there is no room left over anywhere. Jerry.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-04-2010, 09:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VN750Rider/Jerry View Post
Without the airbox it will be easy. I just removed mine, and put them back WITH the airbox, and it was no fun at all. I had already removed the CA evap system and the air injection system, so those were out of the way. I removed both "ducts" that go between the carbs and airbox first, and put them back last. With lots of WD40, it's not that hard, they are so squishable you can just wad them up to get them into place. You need a Maglite, or some other small but bright flashlight to make sure they are properly seated in the airbox. DO NOT use a screwdriver. I poked a hole in one of the ducts that way once. But you don't have to worry about putting those back on. But you may have to remove and reinstall the carbs again. I removed mine with the throttle cables still attached, and put them back that way. It is virtually impossible to install the throttle cables with the carbs installed. The choke cable is not that difficult.


IMO, this is one of the worst designed setups I've ever seen, even removing/reinstalling the carbs on a Suzuki Intruder 800 is easy by comparison. But with plenty of time and patience, the right "feel", and doing everything in the proper order, it is not as bad as it first looks. I have fairly large hands, but after having been a mechanic all my life, I am good at manipulating parts in tight spaces. If you are "fighting" with it, give it up, go do something else, change your attitude, and come back. They do fit, it's just that everything has to be in exactly the right position, as there is no room left over anywhere. Jerry.
You will get no arguement here! As many times I have R&I the carbs on these bikes with the surge tank I still dread having to do it. With the surge tank removed I can install in 30-45 seconds with both boots on the heads. With the surge tank it still takes me about 10 minutes.

How is the bike running with the new jets?


85 VN700 "Old Yella"

REBUILT ENGINE
CUSTOM PAINT
VANCE & HINES CRUZERS
EAR SHAVED AND RE-JETTED W/K&N'S
DUNLOP ELITE K591 FRONT & REAR
VOLTMETER
SYNTHETIC BRAKE FLUID
SYNTHETIC OIL & GEAR LUBE
PLEXISTAR 2 WINDSHIELD
SPLINES LUBED
ACCT'S GREASED W/TOC SPRINGS
COASTERD
LEATHER SADDLE BAGS
LEATHER TOOL AND ROLL BAG
PICKUP COILS GAPPED AT .018"
NGK CAP, WIRES, IRIDUMS
BARNETT FRICTION PLATES & SPRINGS
CUSTOM GRIPS, MIRRORS, LEVERS
ORIGINAL STATOR & R/R 14.5v
DEKA MF AGM ETX15L

Best Auto/Moto Insurance | Motorcycle Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-05-2010, 08:53 AM Thread Starter
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I'm still having issue's with the throttle cables, I can't figure out why it doesn't close correctly. And even though I have the choke on correctly that doesn't seem to work correctly either. I think I am going to take it to a near by shop and have them dyno tune it as well as adjust all the cables.

1992 Vulcan 750.
Ear shaved and re-jetted.
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