Question on the floats - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-17-2010, 12:54 AM Thread Starter
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Question on the floats

Evening/morning everyone! I had a quick question on the floats. I am pretty much to the point of assembling the carbs, but I can't find anything on float level. The only thing the manual mentions is a .2 - .4 gap between the pin and side of the float pivot point. Is this good enough and all I have to go is put in the new o-ring and go? Thanks for the help!
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-17-2010, 07:36 AM
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Maybe this will help....
(although, if the level isn't right, ya gotta disassemble them again )



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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-17-2010, 08:20 AM Thread Starter
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I was afraid of that. I was just hoping there was something that could be done before installing them on the bike. Ehhhh.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-17-2010, 11:13 AM
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What hyper is showing is how to test the float level with carbs installed. The float can only be adjusted with carbs removed and disassembled.
The Clymer manual shows you how to adjust the float before you put them on the bike.


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Last edited by lance328; 02-17-2010 at 06:47 PM.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-17-2010, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
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I have the kawi manual, does anyone know of a link to download the Clymer manual. I've been searching, but no success yet.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-17-2010, 08:42 PM
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never been able to find the Clymer on digits (pdf format)... the only one I have found is the Kawa service manual. but others might know where to find it... or better yet, go to autozone and order a Haynes manual.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-17-2010, 09:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marc0011 View Post
I have the kawi manual, does anyone know of a link to download the Clymer manual. I've been searching, but no success yet.
I finally got my new power supply and my computer is up and running. I was now able to scan what you need. Hold the float chamber as shown in the pic, the middle seam on the float should be in the middle of the two tabs on the float chamber.





85 VN700 "Old Yella"

REBUILT ENGINE
CUSTOM PAINT
VANCE & HINES CRUZERS
EAR SHAVED AND RE-JETTED W/K&N'S
DUNLOP ELITE K591 FRONT & REAR
VOLTMETER
SYNTHETIC BRAKE FLUID
SYNTHETIC OIL & GEAR LUBE
PLEXISTAR 2 WINDSHIELD
SPLINES LUBED
ACCT'S GREASED W/TOC SPRINGS
COASTERD
LEATHER SADDLE BAGS
LEATHER TOOL AND ROLL BAG
PICKUP COILS GAPPED AT .018"
NGK CAP, WIRES, IRIDUMS
BARNETT FRICTION PLATES & SPRINGS
CUSTOM GRIPS, MIRRORS, LEVERS
ORIGINAL STATOR & R/R 14.5v
DEKA MF AGM ETX15L

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Last edited by lance328; 02-17-2010 at 09:31 PM.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-27-2011, 01:03 PM
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I know this is an old thread, but because my question is a follow up, thought I'd give it a try. I've checked my bowl levels with carbs on and both were high. (As suspected since bike's running rich.) Took carbs out and all parts look fine. However, following adjustment guidelines as shown above, I need to make an adjustment moving tang out - not in. Seems to me that the adjustment should have been to push the tang closer to the needle, not pull back. Am I missing something here? (I've googled for days trying to find somewhere that says "further out = more fuel in bowl/ closer in = less". I realize this may seem stupid but I don't want to have to pull carbs again and need a second opinion on what appears to me to be obvious. Thanks!

Last edited by amy; 08-27-2011 at 01:11 PM.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-27-2011, 02:02 PM
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I have to agree with you, moving the tang closer to the needle will shut off flow sooner hence lower level. Just as a side thought, might your rich condition be a result of the idle mixture screws or restricted air filter flow? Just more fuel for the pondering fire.....

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-27-2011, 02:58 PM
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The bike was running like a champ from Denver to Kremmling (5000-8000 feet more or less) when suddenly started bogging down, smelling of fuel and getting 20mpg vs 50. I've checked and cleaned everything I can think of (hoses, carbs) with no change. Seems to be ok at idle and low RPMs, then second phase is just wet, upper end is hit or miss on power (mostly miss). I've checked all jets and don't see any issues so thought I'd check the float level (I'd dropped her about a week before and read somewhere you can mess up your floats with a hard fall.) Anyway they showed too high and since I was taking the thing off again anyway to re-examine figured I'd get her into the bowl green zone.

I checked venting and the filters are only a month old. I read something about cutting a vent tube to 45 degrees but don't understand that one...

Thanks for confirming the tang thing. Sometimes you get so flabbergasted you start to doubt your own logic.
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