Different Version of Ear Shave Part 2 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-11-2009, 01:28 AM Thread Starter
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Different Version of Ear Shave Part 2

Well I've got the bike on the road after the ear shave and the rotor rewind. The electrical system is good with the batt gauge and the AGM batt. I have two green lights all the time which puts it at about 13.5 volts.

Now we get to Lance's question about the performance of the bike with this mod.
Quote:
I would like to hear of the improved performance results, fuel mileage and what jets are needed to compliment your shave. I would like to compare to the standard K&N pod filter and re-jet.
Let me say that my comment about it running fine with the factory jets was completely correct for that day. I was not ever able to duplicate it again. I was having trouble with the chokes and suspect that they may have been stuck for that one ride, because I had them operating correctly before the next ride.

Taking it out again it started hard. When it was choked, it seemed like it was starving for fuel. Any roll on the throttle would kill it until it got warmed up. When I was riding, it would start to cut out and have a hard time around 4k, it had zero power in the upper range.

There are lot's of places to get jets on the internet but I ended up going to Tucker Rocky at my local Yamaha shop. I got the standard jet sizes of 40 and 140, let me say that Tucker Rocky is a good place to get jets if you can figure out what you need. The numbers and prices for our carbs are as follows:
Pilot #40 - TR Part # 428177 - 4 jets - $11.00
Main #140 - TR Part # 469719 - 5 jets - $6.05
for needle shims I used #4 washers found at the local hardware store, 5 for .39 cents. Yea, you get extra jets but I couldn't beat those prices for 2 jets and shipping off the internet.

After the rejet, the bike starts and runs great. The rejet made a huge difference in how the bike acts. My fuel mileage has gone down noticeably but it has plenty of power, it idles well and has been very reliable. I'm not sure if I like the trade off in mileage yet.

I have one question for anyone who knows. The bike has plenty of power, I have noticed though that when I'm in the higher gears at around 4000 rpm, cruising seems to be OK as long as there is no wind. However, if I have a headwind or a lot of resistance, I notice a definate surging of the bike, the engine seems to be running steady and the tone doesn't change but the power surges. It's not the wind pushing on the bike. If I roll the throttle slightly, the surging goes away and the engine regains it's power. Is this a matter of shims? My #4 washers may be a little thin and maybe the needles need to come up some more? I put 2 shims under the needle heads so the needles are pulled up like they should be. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Last edited by AceMcgyver; 11-11-2009 at 01:33 AM.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-11-2009, 01:52 AM
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thanks for the update...
you should package the extra jets up and sell them here for others earshaves since this seems to be the normal starting point for this project!



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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-11-2009, 08:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AceMcgyver View Post
I have one question for anyone who knows. The bike has plenty of power, I have noticed though that when I'm in the higher gears at around 4000 rpm, cruising seems to be OK as long as there is no wind. However, if I have a headwind or a lot of resistance, I notice a definate surging of the bike, the engine seems to be running steady and the tone doesn't change but the power surges. It's not the wind pushing on the bike. If I roll the throttle slightly, the surging goes away and the engine regains it's power. Is this a matter of shims? My #4 washers may be a little thin and maybe the needles need to come up some more? I put 2 shims under the needle heads so the needles are pulled up like they should be. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
It could be the vent tube that's supposed to go into the right ear. Try putting it in different positions (ie... pointing forward, backward etc..) then take the bike out and get it up to the 4000rpm range. Do this a few times and see if you can find a sweet spot that makes it run better.


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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-14-2009, 12:55 AM Thread Starter
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Right now the vent tube is plugged into a filter that hangs behind the battery under the seat. It's pretty well shielded from the wind. Is there a better place to put it?
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-14-2009, 01:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AceMcgyver View Post
Well I've got the bike on the road after the ear shave and the rotor rewind. The electrical system is good with the batt gauge and the AGM batt. I have two green lights all the time which puts it at about 13.5 volts.

Now we get to Lance's question about the performance of the bike with this mod.


Let me say that my comment about it running fine with the factory jets was completely correct for that day. I was not ever able to duplicate it again. I was having trouble with the chokes and suspect that they may have been stuck for that one ride, because I had them operating correctly before the next ride.

Taking it out again it started hard. When it was choked, it seemed like it was starving for fuel. Any roll on the throttle would kill it until it got warmed up. When I was riding, it would start to cut out and have a hard time around 4k, it had zero power in the upper range.

There are lot's of places to get jets on the internet but I ended up going to Tucker Rocky at my local Yamaha shop. I got the standard jet sizes of 40 and 140, let me say that Tucker Rocky is a good place to get jets if you can figure out what you need. The numbers and prices for our carbs are as follows:
Pilot #40 - TR Part # 428177 - 4 jets - $11.00
Main #140 - TR Part # 469719 - 5 jets - $6.05
for needle shims I used #4 washers found at the local hardware store, 5 for .39 cents. Yea, you get extra jets but I couldn't beat those prices for 2 jets and shipping off the internet.

After the rejet, the bike starts and runs great. The rejet made a huge difference in how the bike acts. My fuel mileage has gone down noticeably but it has plenty of power, it idles well and has been very reliable. I'm not sure if I like the trade off in mileage yet.

I have one question for anyone who knows. The bike has plenty of power, I have noticed though that when I'm in the higher gears at around 4000 rpm, cruising seems to be OK as long as there is no wind. However, if I have a headwind or a lot of resistance, I notice a definate surging of the bike, the engine seems to be running steady and the tone doesn't change but the power surges. It's not the wind pushing on the bike. If I roll the throttle slightly, the surging goes away and the engine regains it's power. Is this a matter of shims? My #4 washers may be a little thin and maybe the needles need to come up some more? I put 2 shims under the needle heads so the needles are pulled up like they should be. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
You got a great deal on the jets, the clerk screw up an charged you the individual price for the pack. Keep an eye on the plugs, you may need to go to a larger main. Where are your pilot screws set at?


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REBUILT ENGINE
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-15-2009, 05:15 PM Thread Starter
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Pilot screws are set at about 3 to 3.5 turns out, I've tried different settings on them, doesn't seem to make that much difference after 2.5 turns or so.

I'm not sure the cleark screwed up on the price, I gave him the TR part number and he gave me the price, I'm thinking that is the TR price for the package of jets.

To many others have used these jet sizes with good results, I can't see the engine getting any more air with this setup than with the pod filters. I'm not sure larger jets are the answer. How thick are the shims normally used under the carb needles. There is a possibility the #4 washers I used are thinner resulting in the needle not getting pulled up far enough.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-15-2009, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AceMcgyver View Post
Pilot screws are set at about 3 to 3.5 turns out, I've tried different settings on them, doesn't seem to make that much difference after 2.5 turns or so.

I'm not sure the cleark screwed up on the price, I gave him the TR part number and he gave me the price, I'm thinking that is the TR price for the package of jets.

To many others have used these jet sizes with good results, I can't see the engine getting any more air with this setup than with the pod filters. I'm not sure larger jets are the answer. How thick are the shims normally used under the carb needles. There is a possibility the #4 washers I used are thinner resulting in the needle not getting pulled up far enough.
140 is the starting place .. iv since gone to a 138 and about to goto a 136



Stator #3
MF AGM
DeGoated
Ears Shaved
R/R relocated
Rebuilt



She's worth her weight in GOLD
If u dont have it already Here is the Service Manual
How To Test the Stator
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-22-2010, 10:52 AM
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Did you get this figured out?
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-22-2010, 04:14 PM
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Also curious. I had the same symptoms and it turned out to be the vent hose. If the wind blows across it you get that effect.

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-22-2010, 04:36 PM
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cool, I am thinking about going this rout and just wanted to make sure of jet sizes b4 doing so
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