Cracked Gas Tank - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-06-2009, 05:30 PM Thread Starter
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Cracked Gas Tank

Well, it's been a lovely day. I managed to find out why I always smell gas, I realized I have a hairline fracture someplace under the left mounting tab on the gas tank. I guess I tightened it too much.

Upon taking it off, I set it on something that wasn't too sturdy, and it fell over and now the paint is scuffed on the right side of my once-was-mint-condition tank



What's my best route on fixing this hairline crack. I tried to look for it today, I think it's UNDER that mounting tab somewhere. I was going to attempt to solder it, but I don't know if I can get to it. I thought about trying to clean around the ear really well and sealing all around it, or getting something for the inside of the tank to seal it that way. Inside, my tank is SPOTLESS.

Problem there is, it seems the fuel level sender is in the tank too, not sure how to go about getting that out if I were to pour a sealer inside the tank.


The tank is off the bike, cleaned out, and drying now, i'll check it in a couple days to see how fumy it still is.


Sooo, can I salvage my tank?
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-06-2009, 07:35 PM
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Yes you can,salvage your tank.although you are going to have to repaint it any way you go about it ,and do it right.Since it is in a stressed area it needs to be a strong fix not just a band-aid over a hole.
I would start with sanding the area clean and see what I was dealing with.Then you can choose to tig or mig weld or gas weld it with a small brazing tip on a oxy /acetylene torch.Whichever you do be sure to drain and purge the tank with an inert gas such as dry nitrogen before welding and during,filling the tank with water is not acceptable and can concentrate the gas fumes in a confined place
For these reasons you may want to take it to a welding shop and let them handle the repair.Another option may be one of the newer two part epoxies,although I do not know how well they resist gasoline,some one else on here may have used them in the past on a tank,and as for the sealers I do not like them at all some one did the tank on my bike and it is just nasty looking,and I can't help but think it will eventually cause problems.




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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-06-2009, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
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Gotchya, thanks for the info. I might try to find a gas resistant epoxy first, the paint isn't bad at all, I actually took a better look at it today, I think most of it can be touched up well. I'm going to hit a body shop once I fix the leak and see what they say.


I just want to be sure, my tank is shiny and spotless inside, NO rust. I obviously want to keep it this way. I cleaned my entire tank with water today, inside and out, and dried it all completely. But, I don't want it to rust while I'm fixing it. I don't anticipate this taking months to do, but what can I do in the mean time to keep the inside from starting to rust?
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-06-2009, 09:42 PM
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Gotchya, thanks for the info. I might try to find a gas resistant epoxy first, the paint isn't bad at all, I actually took a better look at it today, I think most of it can be touched up well. I'm going to hit a body shop once I fix the leak and see what they say.


I just want to be sure, my tank is shiny and spotless inside, NO rust. I obviously want to keep it this way. I cleaned my entire tank with water today, inside and out, and dried it all completely. But, I don't want it to rust while I'm fixing it. I don't anticipate this taking months to do, but what can I do in the mean time to keep the inside from starting to rust?
you might spray the inside with some petroleum based lube and wash it out after you fix it with a little gasoline ,I imagine it might run a little rich but that would be it is if you didn't get it all out after rinsing.




If you see it on my bike I did it
VROC#30324
92 vn750(sold)
Current ride 05 1500 Classic FI
lovin' the new scoot



Quote:
"When all is said and done,usually more is said than done" UNK
Click on one x and drag to the other to read between them.

Psalm 40:1...
XI waited patiently for the Lord; and he turned unto me, and heard my cry. X
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-06-2009, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Acid7711 View Post
I just want to be sure, my tank is shiny and spotless inside, NO rust. I obviously want to keep it this way. I cleaned my entire tank with water today, inside and out, and dried it all completely. But, I don't want it to rust while I'm fixing it. I don't anticipate this taking months to do, but what can I do in the mean time to keep the inside from starting to rust?
I read that Pouring some Transmission Fluid in the tank and coating the inside will keep the rust away on a stored tank.

JaY



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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-06-2009, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
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Excellent, thanks!
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-07-2009, 12:38 AM
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Sea Foam should also keep the tank from rusting while it's being fixed.

Welcome to the leaking tank club. Mine was on the mount as well. I sealed it with JB Weld, but when I tightened it down, it popped loose and started leaking again, taking a lot of paint off the bottom of the tank. I had it welded. Here are the steps my buddy took when he welded it.

1. Make sure the tank is safe to heat/weld. Se earlier posts.

2. Measure the distance between the two mount tabs so you get them properly situated when you're done.

3. Place wet cloths around the work area, cut two small V notches in the tab, heat it, and bend it out of the way so the tip of the welder can get in there. One of the spot welds used to originally mount the tab to the tank has popped loose and is causing the leak.

4. Weld the crap out of the damaged area. My buddy had to do this twice to plug the leak.

5. Reheat the tab and bend it back to its original position.

6. Fill the notches you cut in step 3 by welding.

7. Paint the damaged area.

Good luck.

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-07-2009, 05:21 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info. That gives me something to go by. I'll hopefully be able to take a peak when I get off of work in a couple hours.
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-07-2009, 09:23 AM
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JB Weld seems to be perfectly happy submerged in gasoline. I know this because my carb bowl was broken. One mounting ear was broken off into the bowl. It's been a year since.


....Just saying. FYI, my tank cracked in the EXACT spot you described. For what ever reason, it quit seeping though.

Call me a cautious, but a guy I know was killed welding on a gas tank. He thought it was empty and clean of all fumes. Be careful.
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-07-2009, 09:52 AM
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My solution to this is to treat it from the inside and the outside. I use the KBS epoxy putty on the outside. I work it deep inside the valleys and fill the flange/joining area of the mounts and work it smooth. With a wet finger you can shape it like Playdoh. I have done this to my rattlecan project tank and I plan to do it to all the ones I rehab premeptively.

I also have the KBS coatings internal system. I haven't tried it yet, but I plan to. The outside putty fixed the leak that I had. But I don't trust it not to come back.

I know most people don't like coatings. The Kreem variation is well loathed. I don't know if KBS is better, or just newer and hasn't had time to get a bad rep, yet. But I figured I'd try it. I have 4 tanks! =)

Bad part w/ the KBS is you really need three days to work on it in a row and I rarely seem to find that these days. But I will.

Just some more options and ideas.


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Past VNs: 92 VN750A, 98 VN1500A

Future VN: 94/97 VN1500A basketcase/bobber

Last edited by krebsne; 08-07-2009 at 09:54 AM. Reason: clarity
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