Shouldn't fuel be coming out of here? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-24-2009, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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Shouldn't fuel be coming out of here?

Hey!

Well, it's my first post, but I've been lurking for a while! Great place!

I picked up my 1990 Vulcan about 3 weeks ago, and it's in great shape! Was 100% stock when I got it, 19k original miles on it, ran very good and was very well maintained and clean.

The bike ran great, except for a hard to start when hot problem, which searching around I found much info on. I put in an AGM battery, and iridium plugs. This immediately solved my issue, and it started each and every time with no effort after this! Ran great! Previous owner just did wires not long before he sold it to me, and he had the carbs cleaned and everything about a year ago. Along with changing out the battery, I tore most of the bike down and checked ALL of the electrical connections, and changed the oil. Everything lookin good!

Well, I've been cruising on this, loving it for like I said, almost a month now. Bikes been running great! Not a problem with it once the battery and plugs were switched out, however now I have my first problem.





Today, I rode up to my girlfriends work, bike ran perfect the entire way up there. Nothing out of the ordinary. Upon pulling into the parking lot, I started to park, and the bike started sputtering and died on me and wouldn't idle. I started it back up, didn't want to idle, died again. Well, I managed to find out that I could get it started and then give it enough gas to keep it idling, and once I got it about 2k rpms it ran perfectly fine as usual. I decided I needed to get it home before I got stranded, so I ran home quickly with it. Along the way, no problems aside from keeping it idling. If I was sitting at a stop light, I would have to hold the gas to keep the revs up, and it would take a little work to get it going in 1st, but then again no problems.


I pulled it into my garage, checked everything. Fuel tank is FULL. Now, mind you I don't have my experience with bikes or carbs, but I do have a lot with car engines and fuel injection. My understanding is that these carbs are gravity fed correct? I noticed the main fuel line coming STRAIGHT down from the petcock had a crack near the top, but it didn't look under the nozzle, so I replaced that line no change. For kicks, I left this main middle fuel line disconnected, and turned the petcock down to ON. No fuel came out?! Shouldn't fuel be coming out of this pretty good? Like I said, the fuel tank is full all the way.

I didn't pull the other 2 lines on the left and right sides of the petcock, because I ran out of time before I had to goto work, but I'm assuming on our bikes gas should freely pour from here when the petcock is turned to the on position. I'm guessing there's a little screen in there as well. A couple days ago I put some SeaFoam in the gas tank, maybe it clogged this screen?




So...Could this be causing my problem? Maybe it's too clogged at idle, but under some throttle the vacuum is enough to suck past this? Or am I wrong in asuming gas should be pouring out of this petcock with no lines attached under ON?

Also, the previous owner told me these bikes have no reserve. Is this true?

Any insight on this problem would be appreciated! I love my baby and I want to get it runnin again ASAP!

Thanks guys!
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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-24-2009, 09:25 PM
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The petcock is vacuum operated, the engine has to be runnung for fuel to flow.

The center line is the vacuum line, the ones left and right are the main lines to each carb.

The vacuum leak may have caused your problem, not enough vacuum at idle to open the petcock diaphram.


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Last edited by lance328; 06-24-2009 at 09:35 PM.
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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-24-2009, 09:32 PM Thread Starter
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Crap.......and I thought I found my problem

I should mention, I adjusted my idle screw as well, and this didn't solve the problem either *tear*
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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-24-2009, 09:39 PM
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Check all four clamps on the carb boots and make sure they are tight.

Try adjusting your idle knob on the left side, set to 1100 rpm when engine is warm.

Make sure your choke is fully closed.


85 VN700 "Old Yella"

REBUILT ENGINE
CUSTOM PAINT
VANCE & HINES CRUZERS
EAR SHAVED AND RE-JETTED W/K&N'S
DUNLOP ELITE K591 FRONT & REAR
VOLTMETER
SYNTHETIC BRAKE FLUID
SYNTHETIC OIL & GEAR LUBE
PLEXISTAR 2 WINDSHIELD
SPLINES LUBED
ACCT'S GREASED W/TOC SPRINGS
COASTERD
LEATHER SADDLE BAGS
LEATHER TOOL AND ROLL BAG
PICKUP COILS GAPPED AT .018"
NGK CAP, WIRES, IRIDUMS
BARNETT FRICTION PLATES & SPRINGS
CUSTOM GRIPS, MIRRORS, LEVERS
ORIGINAL STATOR & R/R 14.5v
DEKA MF AGM ETX15L

Best Auto/Moto Insurance | Motorcycle Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-24-2009, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
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Choke was the first thing I checked, I need to check it more, because when I got it started, it still smelt like it was running very rich for some reason.


When I had it idling in my garage by hand, I put my ear very close to the right side of the carbs and heard nothing out of the ordinary, but on the left side I could hear air being sucked in rythem with the carb, the carb was slightly moving a little. I'm not sure if this sucking sound is normal either. I tried spraying some WD-40 around, but it didn't change much.
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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-24-2009, 09:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Acid7711 View Post
... the previous owner told me these bikes have no reserve. Is this true?
There is a reserve in the tank. Acutally, the RESERVE position on the fuel selector switch (petcock) just allows fuel to flow from the tank via a shorter intake line, meaning that line originates inside the tank from a lower position than the line that's connected to the ON position of the fuel petcock. So when the fuel level falls below the height of the fuel line when the petcock is in the ON position, no fuel will flow to the carbs until you select the RESERVE position. There's not really a reserve section of the tank separate from the main section.

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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-24-2009, 09:53 PM
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have you tried running the bike in the reserve position your petcock may be messing with you.And check the vent hose from your float bowls that goes in the back side of the right air filter it doesn't attach it just fits there to keep it from flopping around and also have you tried running it with the gas cap unlatched so the tank can breath if the cap breather is stopped up?




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Last edited by denny6006; 06-24-2009 at 09:58 PM.
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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-24-2009, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Acid7711 View Post
Choke was the first thing I checked, I need to check it more, because when I got it started, it still smelt like it was running very rich for some reason.


When I had it idling in my garage by hand, I put my ear very close to the right side of the carbs and heard nothing out of the ordinary, but on the left side I could hear air being sucked in rythem with the carb, the carb was slightly moving a little. I'm not sure if this sucking sound is normal either. I tried spraying some WD-40 around, but it didn't change much.
Set your pilot screws at 1.75 turns from closed, they may be turned out too much. That will cause it to run rich at idle and up to 2500 rpm.

Drain your carbs into a clean container and check for sediment. The openings on the pilot jet are very small and can clog easily.


85 VN700 "Old Yella"

REBUILT ENGINE
CUSTOM PAINT
VANCE & HINES CRUZERS
EAR SHAVED AND RE-JETTED W/K&N'S
DUNLOP ELITE K591 FRONT & REAR
VOLTMETER
SYNTHETIC BRAKE FLUID
SYNTHETIC OIL & GEAR LUBE
PLEXISTAR 2 WINDSHIELD
SPLINES LUBED
ACCT'S GREASED W/TOC SPRINGS
COASTERD
LEATHER SADDLE BAGS
LEATHER TOOL AND ROLL BAG
PICKUP COILS GAPPED AT .018"
NGK CAP, WIRES, IRIDUMS
BARNETT FRICTION PLATES & SPRINGS
CUSTOM GRIPS, MIRRORS, LEVERS
ORIGINAL STATOR & R/R 14.5v
DEKA MF AGM ETX15L

Best Auto/Moto Insurance | Motorcycle Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

Last edited by lance328; 06-24-2009 at 10:01 PM.
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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-24-2009, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
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I forgot to mention, that vent hose was flopping around, and I put it back behind the air filter in that little spot that it's supposed to go, didn't seem to help I did notice the end smelt like fuel and was a little wet for some reason!!! That worried me!

I will try the gas tank thing, I never thought of that.


Quote:
Originally Posted by lance328 View Post
Set your pilot screws at 1.75 turns from closed, they may be turned out too much. That will cause it to run rich at idle and up to 2500 rpm.
I'll try this. These are the little brass adjuster screws on each carb right? The flat head ones? I looked for those today, but they looked tight to fit a screw driver in, and I didn't wanna mess with em without being sure what to set them at.


Quote:
Originally Posted by lance328 View Post
Drain your carbs into a clean container and check for sediment. The openings on the pilot jet are very small and can clog easily.
Is this difficult to do? I've never really worked on carbs before, only fuel injection.



On a separate note, I can't thank you guys enough for the help so far! I never expected this much help! You guys are awesome!
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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-24-2009, 10:19 PM
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Stick a small hose on the bottom of the jet cover nipple and open the drain screw.

The pilot screws are beside the vacuum ports. You need a tiny screwdriver.


85 VN700 "Old Yella"

REBUILT ENGINE
CUSTOM PAINT
VANCE & HINES CRUZERS
EAR SHAVED AND RE-JETTED W/K&N'S
DUNLOP ELITE K591 FRONT & REAR
VOLTMETER
SYNTHETIC BRAKE FLUID
SYNTHETIC OIL & GEAR LUBE
PLEXISTAR 2 WINDSHIELD
SPLINES LUBED
ACCT'S GREASED W/TOC SPRINGS
COASTERD
LEATHER SADDLE BAGS
LEATHER TOOL AND ROLL BAG
PICKUP COILS GAPPED AT .018"
NGK CAP, WIRES, IRIDUMS
BARNETT FRICTION PLATES & SPRINGS
CUSTOM GRIPS, MIRRORS, LEVERS
ORIGINAL STATOR & R/R 14.5v
DEKA MF AGM ETX15L

Best Auto/Moto Insurance | Motorcycle Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
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