Won't Idle below 2k rpm - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-14-2009, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
 
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Unhappy Won't Idle below 2k rpm

Howdy Folks --

Mr. Spock is acting up again

He runs very rough at idle and dies unless I keep the rpms up around 2k. It helped to adjust/increase the idle so the rpms stay around 2k but sometimes it still dies when I come to a complete stop.

It starts easily and runs strong above 2k rpm. It's got about 1/4 tank of gas with Seafoam in it.

A few weeks ago it had different symptoms: leaking fuel from the exhaust; hard to start; running rough at all rpms. At that time I drained the carbs and some sediment came out. That took care of the problem.

Any ideas what it might be? Does it sound like dirt in the carbs?

Your input is greatly appreciated!
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-14-2009, 09:34 PM
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You need a carb cleaning.

sorry man.

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-14-2009, 10:53 PM
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I second the carb cleaning..... do it yourself or get ready to part with about 5 bills!!

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-15-2009, 11:51 AM
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last time I had someone pull my carbs and clean 'em it only cost around $220. Shop around!
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-15-2009, 12:23 PM
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Sense it sound like youre going to need to pull your carbs, while youre at it might as well do an ear shave. Any further issues, pulling and installing carbs becomes a breeze.

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-15-2009, 04:31 PM
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I know some might say you don't need in-line fuel filters because the screen in the tank will stop contaminants, but if you are getting crud out of the carbs, I'd install some. It's gotta be comin' from somewhere!

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-15-2009, 04:50 PM
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I'd pull the tank and give it a good cleaning. See what comes out. If you see rust coming out then I'd do a rust treatment to it. Drain the carbs, flush them with some fuel/seafoam, let em soak, then put it back together and see what happens. If you pull the carbs and clean them up without first cleaning the tank, you're wasting your time. The crud isn't coming from the carbs, but getting to the carbs from the fuel tank. Even if it ran like crap after cleaning the tank, I would still put half a can of seafoam in the tank full of gas and ride it like you stole it for about 50 miles and see if it clears up. Then, maybe if that didn't cure it, I'd pull the carbs and clean them thoroughly. Just my .02!

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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-15-2009, 09:52 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fergy View Post
I'd pull the tank and give it a good cleaning. See what comes out. If you see rust coming out then I'd do a rust treatment to it. Drain the carbs, flush them with some fuel/seafoam, let em soak, then put it back together and see what happens. If you pull the carbs and clean them up without first cleaning the tank, you're wasting your time. The crud isn't coming from the carbs, but getting to the carbs from the fuel tank. Even if it ran like crap after cleaning the tank, I would still put half a can of seafoam in the tank full of gas and ride it like you stole it for about 50 miles and see if it clears up. Then, maybe if that didn't cure it, I'd pull the carbs and clean them thoroughly. Just my .02!
I had Ma Kawai (Dealership) clean the carbs a few months ago (about 800 miles) but I didn't clean the tank, and there's a good chance that's my problem.

Can someone please briefly lay out the basic steps to clean the tank?
First thing is to remove it, right? What product do I use to clean the tank? Let it soak, etc?

My thanx to Fergy and each of you who responded!
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-16-2009, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
 
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How to Clean Gas Tank?

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Originally Posted by FlaRider View Post
I had Ma Kawai (Dealership) clean the carbs a few months ago (about 800 miles) but I didn't clean the tank, and there's a good chance that's my problem.

Can someone please briefly lay out the basic steps to clean the tank?
First thing is to remove it, right? What product do I use to clean the tank? Let it soak, etc?

My thanx to Fergy and each of you who responded!
Bump--I need tips on cleaning the gas tank and doing a rust treatment!

Thanx in advance
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-16-2009, 12:38 PM
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There are different methods used to clean the rust out of a tank. My favorite is using acid. This makes some folks queasy here, but it does a really good job, is cheap, and pretty quick, compared to other methods.

After removing the tank, you need to flush it thoroughly with your garden hose. Really work hard to get everything you can out with water. You have to remove everything, petcock, fuel level sensor, gas cap etc. and tape up every opening with good quality duct tape. Use a handful, maybe 50 or so, small 1/4" steel nuts and dump them into the tank. Carefully, pour about 12 oz of muriatic acid (they sell it at pool supply stores, or Home Depot) into the tank and tape up the gas cap hole and shake the tank vigorously for about 10 minutes. Keep the garden hose handy and rinse off any leakage immediately. (wear old clothes, rubber boots, rubber gloves and eye protection, maybe a smock if you have one) The acid and nuts will eat the rust off the tank inside. You might have to vent the pressure off the tank by lifting the tape around the gas cap hole every once in a while. You'll know when it bulges the tape. Keep rinsing the outer surface immediately if any acid leaks out around the tape. It will be the color of mustard so it's not going to be hard to see. After 10 minutes or so, remove the tape and let the acid drain from the bottom of the tank, into a plastic bucket full of water that you have added about a cup of baking soda. The baking soda will neutralize the acid. The writeup said to pour the acid on a patch of old concrete that you don't mind staining to neutralize it, but I prefer the baking soda method. Then you can pour the mixture in a gravel or dirt area and it will be fine. This acid will etch the metal and your surface will be clean and rust free. Now rinse the tank very well, flushing it with the hose and shake it to make sure you get all the acid rinsed out. You can use a telescoping magnet pick up tool to get all the nuts out of the tank. (make sure the nuts are steel!) Then tape it back up and pour two small bottles of naval jelley into the tank. You need to do this immediately after you get the acid flushed out, as rust will start to form immediately on the untreated metal. Shake the tank for a minute or two and then let it set for 30 minutes, then shake it again. Do this for 2 hours. Then rinse the naval jelley out by flushing it with the hose. Once clean, dry off the outside and rig a blow drier at the warm, not hot, setting and let it dry the inside of the tank. The phosphoric acid in naval jelley will treat the metal and make it resistant to rust. My tank has been silver inside since I used this to clean it. (I did this on my KZ1000P when I first bought it, and I sold it 1.5 years later and the tank was still nice and silver inside, no sign of rust!)

It's messy to do, but it works very well, and doesn't leave a film inside the tank that you might have problems with later. This method might seem a little radical, and some of you might prefer not to mess with the acid, but it works very well.

Fergy
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2002 VN1500 Classic
Spline Lube Procedure, with photos, R/R Relocation and Coil Mod
Rusty Tank Cleaning!
Electrical Fault Finding Flowchart
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