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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-07-2009, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
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Some choke questions:

Ok, so I got my carb in the mail yesterday and after a good bit of cursing, got the freaking thing in. Actually it was the air box part that was a serious pain in the booty. Anyway, the choke cable was difficult to get on as well and I have a few questions about its operation.

When I'm starting up a cold bike, do I want the choke lever to be closer to me or further away? In other words, the triangle graphic on the side of the choke represents more choke as the lever is away from you and less choke the closer it gets to you right?

It started with the lever in either position, but the less choke position (pulled closer to me), caused the engine to race, it seemed, to about 3 or 4k rpms. Maybe something needs to be adjusted there?

Also, when the choke is all the way let out and the cable is at its longest point, the two plungers on the carb don't go all the way in, is that right? It seemed like the choke lever should be able to operate those plungers through their full range of motion, but instead the only go about half way in. Is that right?

Thanks!
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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-07-2009, 01:55 PM
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I'm not really sure on how much the lever should operate the plungers, but I can say, you pull the lever towards you when starting cold, and push away from you when you're ready to go (push forward to go forward).


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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-07-2009, 01:56 PM
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The choke is on when you pull it towards you and off when away from you. The triangle I suppose is meant to represent an arrowhead: 'this way for more choke'.

When the choke is off, the plungers on the carbs should go all the way in, with some free play before pulling the choke lever starts to pull them out.

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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-07-2009, 02:33 PM
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It will race/run faster with the choke closed, (towards you), that's normal.

Just hang around and push the lever forward a bit at a time, to keep the engine speed down while it's warming up.
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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-07-2009, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pappa View Post
the plungers on the carbs should go all the way in, with some free play
Is the little screw part on the cable at the handle the only way the adjust the choke? Seems like I've got the bugger screwed all the way in and there's not enough slack. Also it's got a fair amount of binding going on in the casing of the cable, would that effect the amount of slack I could get some one of way? If I was goin to lube my cables, what would the best lube be? I've got some spray on lube, would that work or should I use a petroleum lube like sewing machine oil or something else? I don't have one of those cable lubers, how can I make due on a non-existant budget?
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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-07-2009, 07:22 PM
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take the handle bare end lose and make a funnel around the cable housing with tin foil and tape around the small end of your makeshift funnel and point the big end up and secure it to the handlebars out away from the rest of the bike ,because this will leak some in spite of every effort you make to seal it.fill your fancy homemade funnel with penetrating oil of your favorite brand and hope it seeps down the cable hosing around the inner cable. if that doesn't work take the whole cable off and soak it in whatever,I have put them in the bath tub and used hot soapy water and worked the cable back and forth and all kind of gunk will come out of it then hang it up and let it dry real good for a day or two and proceed to lube the cable,before you go to all this trouble just make sure the cable isn't twisted or kinked any where.I know it sounds like it is a lot of work but poor folks have poor ways ,Denny




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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-07-2009, 10:13 PM
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Nobody mentioned it but it seems to me that 3-4K is way too high on the rpms. Full choke on should bring you up to 2,000 rpm. You may have it too tight.

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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-07-2009, 10:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gemguy View Post
Nobody mentioned it but it seems to me that 3-4K is way too high on the rpms. Full choke on should bring you up to 2,000 rpm. You may have it too tight.
Once my bike's warmed up, if I have it on full choke it'll reach 2800-3200 rpms. Before it's warmed I have to let off some choke to keep it at 2000.

Maybe mines a lil' tight too, but it's always been like that and seems to work fine otherwise. Although, as I said, I never really looked at the plungers


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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-07-2009, 11:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denny6006 View Post
take the handle bare end lose and make a funnel around the cable housing with tin foil and tape around the small end of your makeshift funnel and point the big end up and secure it to the handlebars out away from the rest of the bike ,because this will leak some in spite of every effort you make to seal it.fill your fancy homemade funnel with penetrating oil of your favorite brand and hope it seeps down the cable hosing around the inner cable. if that doesn't work take the whole cable off and soak it in whatever,I have put them in the bath tub and used hot soapy water and worked the cable back and forth and all kind of gunk will come out of it then hang it up and let it dry real good for a day or two and proceed to lube the cable,before you go to all this trouble just make sure the cable isn't twisted or kinked any where.I know it sounds like it is a lot of work but poor folks have poor ways ,Denny
I have a gallon of wd-40, is that a penetrating oil? People always tell me that wd-40 isn't a lubricant, though. Should I use an additional lubricant?
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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-10-2009, 03:43 AM
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Since no-one who knows better answered..

I use the same oils as for the engine. Works just fine for me.

For a rusted cable, I have removed the cable from the bike, run penetrating oil through the cable and push/pull the wire rope at the same time to get as much dirt as possible out of the cable. Let dry several days, then lubricate with motor oil. Some say motor oil will collect dirt, but as I said, it works for me. Others might say that if it is rusted get a new one.
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