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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-03-2009, 02:10 AM Thread Starter
1992 VN 750
 
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Jet Question

After a week of frustration and coastering and no improvement I decided to remove and clean the carbs. The bike came from Utah so I figured part of the issue might be high altitude jets as well. Well, the carbs are off...not sure about getting them back on at the moment! Holy Cow...the front carb is clean and pristine...the rear carb is varnished and filthy and clearly not clean. The PO paid the dealer to clean these before he sold it to me. I do not think it was done after pulling the carbs.

Anyway, the jets on the rear carb are "132" which I think is a high altitude jet. What should be the proper jet and slow jet size for a regular set up for the front and rear carb? Also, do I have to buy Kawasaki jets or will Harley Davidson jets work? I plan to clean the carbs tonight and pick up the jets tomorrow but I have limited parts availability here in Germany. Since we use CV carbs like some Harleys I was hoping they were compatible. Also, I have read several posts of a hose that goes to the right ear....when I took the carbs off I noticed that the "T" vacuum hoses off the carbs were routed to to a canister on the bottom... but I know that there is definitely no line going to the right ear.

Any advice on the cleaning is also much appreciated. Newbie to the VN 750 but enjoying the tinkering! The weather is perfect here right now and I need to get this baby straight before I put the V and H Cruzers on it! What jet size should I use with those BTW...since the bike is apart, might as well put in the right jets since some say to rejet and some say to not rejet.

1992 VN 750 / 18,100 miles
V and H Cruzers
Earshaved and sheared
110/90 and 170/80 Metzeler 880s
AGM Battery
TPE Stator
Clear Alternatives LED brakelight
Saddleman Explorer Seat
Kurakyn Levers
VN750.com Grill cover
SCP Coasters
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MOSFET R/R
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-03-2009, 02:32 AM
 
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As far as I know, the 132 main jetts are stock jetts. If the bike has been "ear shaved" I belive you need to go to 135 Mains.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-03-2009, 03:00 AM
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sounds like u have a california bike with the canister... i went to see the number off my stock jets but seemed to havemisplaced them i'll double check in the morning... but i believe its a 132 and a 38 jet in each...

I'm guessing the issue your havein is the decel popping thats why the coastering... have u checked for exhast leaks using the bike running and taking a lit ciggerette down the pipes watching the smoke from the cig to see if it gets sucked in anywhere??

when i did the earshave i went to 140 and the only poping i get is when im coasting down hill in gear without throttle... how many turns is your airmix screw set to?



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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-03-2009, 03:43 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the quick replies. I have the idle air mixture screws at 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 currently but will reset them after I clean these carbs. If you look at page 2-10 of the TOC manual it says that "132" is a high altitude jet and that "135" is the standard jet. Since I am putting Cruzers on it as well...do I need to at least have "135" vice "132"? I do not have any idea but surmise that most folks have to have a larger jet with the new exhaust and it appear that my jet is a bit small already (no pun intended) Ha.

So, on the CA model the hose from the "T" does not go to the right ear? I also noticed that the vapor return line to the surge tank is missing as well. SO much fun working on a 20 year old bike with multiple owners! Ya. Also, after looking at the diagrams on page 2-16 of the TOC manual, I see that the PO did not cross the fuel lines as depicted and simply ran them straight to the petcock. That will be easy to fix though. SO many mods...its a wonder it ran at all!

Yes, a CA model! Lucky me! So, remove it all or keep it routed as it is?

1992 VN 750 / 18,100 miles
V and H Cruzers
Earshaved and sheared
110/90 and 170/80 Metzeler 880s
AGM Battery
TPE Stator
Clear Alternatives LED brakelight
Saddleman Explorer Seat
Kurakyn Levers
VN750.com Grill cover
SCP Coasters
Iridium plugs
MOSFET R/R
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-03-2009, 05:48 AM
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that makes sense i was thinking a 138... hmm i'll double check my jets tomorrow and let u know as soon as i find them im sure lance will be chiming in befor i get to them cause he knows the answer... im not so sure about the hardly stealership but im sure we can find u jets... u may be able to turn in your mix screws to get your bike to run on the small jets... until the right size jets get to you there is a service manual on this site that should have better details for ya i wish ya luck and im sure your answers will come shortly... i also know our bikes were designed and run on a lean setting for emisions and i also know the cali model is even worse i recomend plugging the extra line off the fuel tank (by seat ) and removing the cali emisions crap all together ...



Stator #3
MF AGM
DeGoated
Ears Shaved
R/R relocated
Rebuilt



She's worth her weight in GOLD
If u dont have it already Here is the Service Manual
How To Test the Stator
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-03-2009, 06:17 AM Thread Starter
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OK...I am game for removing all of the Fruit and Nut emission mods. I suppose I will need to remove the battery box to get to some of it but I have most of the bike apart now, so why not make it more interesting to put back together!

Looks like the hose from the right rear of tank comes off, then the "T" fitting hoses off the carbs need to be routed to the right ear, then after that I am not sure other than having to reroute the fuel vent hose from the rear of the tank and keep it from going into the separation chamber. But after almost 20 years I am not sure that much is left stock on this bike anyway. I have some hose rerouting to do anyway, so might as well learn all I can about this bike.

I also read today that a lot of folks have Main jet #132 and Pilot jet #38 as their stock jets. Not sure of the disconnect between the TOC manual and reality, but if #132 will satisfy the fuel need, not much need to change. Looking forward to getting this bike running properly and not spending all freetime wrenching. "Fixing" the Kawasaki guy's "repairs" seems to be the first order of business though. Hopefully better news by the end of this week.

1992 VN 750 / 18,100 miles
V and H Cruzers
Earshaved and sheared
110/90 and 170/80 Metzeler 880s
AGM Battery
TPE Stator
Clear Alternatives LED brakelight
Saddleman Explorer Seat
Kurakyn Levers
VN750.com Grill cover
SCP Coasters
Iridium plugs
MOSFET R/R
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-03-2009, 06:41 AM
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this is mostly the california emisions stuff...

On mine theres 2 fuel lines from petcock to carb one overflow/ vent hose from tank (under seat ) hose runs pretty much strait down
one vac from left carb to petcock

on left carb vac lines run to reed valves diaphram... if coastered the reed valve diaphram and hoses can be removed just plug the vac line from the carb... or cap that port at the carb

also at cheapcycleparts.com it says 132 is stock and anything bigger is for racing...

still cluelesss on what i did with my carb parts...

the 2 carb vents i have running to a breather filter but yours should run to the right ear... i hope this helps



Stator #3
MF AGM
DeGoated
Ears Shaved
R/R relocated
Rebuilt



She's worth her weight in GOLD
If u dont have it already Here is the Service Manual
How To Test the Stator
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-03-2009, 06:43 AM
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Stator #3
MF AGM
DeGoated
Ears Shaved
R/R relocated
Rebuilt



She's worth her weight in GOLD
If u dont have it already Here is the Service Manual
How To Test the Stator
seebeeare is offline  
post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-03-2009, 06:43 AM Thread Starter
1992 VN 750
 
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Gonna jump on the end of this thread with one more question...

The air valve that sits in front of the battery. It was connected to the reed valves and the rear carb and the surge box and then to something on the bottom of the bike.

Do I still need this item after coastering? Can I plug the line from the surge tank and then remove the air vavle switch completely from the bike?

Thanks...

1992 VN 750 / 18,100 miles
V and H Cruzers
Earshaved and sheared
110/90 and 170/80 Metzeler 880s
AGM Battery
TPE Stator
Clear Alternatives LED brakelight
Saddleman Explorer Seat
Kurakyn Levers
VN750.com Grill cover
SCP Coasters
Iridium plugs
MOSFET R/R
bordolover is offline  
post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-03-2009, 06:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bordolover View Post
Gonna jump on the end of this thread with one more question...

The air valve that sits in front of the battery. It was connected to the reed valves and the rear carb and the surge box and then to something on the bottom of the bike.

Do I still need this item after coastering? Can I plug the line from the surge tank and then remove the air vavle switch completely from the bike?

Thanks...
that line that runs from carb to diaphram should be a small hose that is the vac line if coastered that should be capped if its not that could cause a running problem buy allowing to much air into the carbs
all those hoses and related can be removed after coastering just cap the vac line at the carb (if u dont have a rubber cap just cut that hose and stick a bolt in it and zip tie it shut (make sure its sealed after its capped u can run propane over it (be carful to see if its leaking (with bike running ) ) if its leaking the propane will richen up the mixture changing the rpms or making the bike run better



Stator #3
MF AGM
DeGoated
Ears Shaved
R/R relocated
Rebuilt



She's worth her weight in GOLD
If u dont have it already Here is the Service Manual
How To Test the Stator
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