Stuck float - Page 2 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Carbs and Fuel System
From the gas tank to the carbs
All fuel system discussion

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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-21-2020, 12:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flitecontrol View Post
If the cylinders are filling with gas, that sounds like a leaking petcock in addition to a bad float valve.
That's possible, would be the front cylinder.

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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-21-2020, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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Surprisingly the petcock did not leak when I pulled the tank last time, despite a half full tank. Once I drain it down, I will clean the petcock just to be certain. You're right though, even with a stuck float, the petcock should stop the fuel. I think that is a bad diaphragm

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John 8:44, REV 2:9, REV 3:9 - If you were kicked out of 109 bars, would you think the problem was you, or the 109 bars?
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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-21-2020, 12:10 PM
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If leaking through the diaphragm, fuel will show up in the vacuum line.

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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-22-2020, 08:18 AM Thread Starter
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So I started up the bike, after letting it sit all day at work. It has about 1/4 of a tank, after filling it up 40 miles ago. It started pushing the coolant out of the silver tube on the right, and there was the multicolored oil look floating on the surface of the coolant on the ground. That being said, it could've picked up the gas because it was running down the side of the case. It was coming out pretty well for the first couple of miles. Again, the throttle response seems normal, albeit rich. Once I got home and parked it, no coolant spot, nor when I fired it up to put it in the garage 4 hours later. The final time of starting, it fired right up, no flooded cylinder or anything. The coolant reservoir is still 1/4 full. I will try starting it today, but it would seem that there could be a leak at a certain level? I am scratching my head, as the coolant and the flooded cylinder seem related. I pulled the rear plug (easy one to get to), it was wet and black (new plug), but no condensation.

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John 8:44, REV 2:9, REV 3:9 - If you were kicked out of 109 bars, would you think the problem was you, or the 109 bars?
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-22-2020, 08:23 AM
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Could be that when you start with the cylinder flooded, the gas in the cylinder gets pressurized and pushes into the coolant system, thus causing excess pressure to build up, thus blowing past the coolant pipe o-ring. This situation would appear to be a bad head gasket if my theory is right.

It seems you have a bad fllooding problem, be it from the carb or the petcock vacuum outlet, AND you have a coolant leak at the coolant pipe, and possibly a gasket gone bad allowing liquid systems in the engine mixing where they shouldn't.
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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-22-2020, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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That’s what I am leaning on as well. I am assuming a head gasket is an engine pull? This is the bike I intend on selling, so I don’t want to sink too much money (time I am okay with). After I pull the carbs again to check the float, I will see if the coolant issue continues. It could be a bad o-ring on the chrome tube. Do you have to pull the engine for that? Theoretically, if the coolant system is filling with gas (it appears to be), it should go to the reservoir, and then the ground


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John 8:44, REV 2:9, REV 3:9 - If you were kicked out of 109 bars, would you think the problem was you, or the 109 bars?
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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-22-2020, 08:49 AM
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Did you see liquid come from the tube, or just going by oily sheen you saw?

Just thinking maybe fuel washed it from farther up. ??

I think servicing the requires loosening the cover, but not pulling the engine. Check the manual though..

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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-22-2020, 09:07 AM Thread Starter
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The bright green coolant was leaking from where the chrome goes into the case. I did not see the oil (rainbow) sheen coming from the fluid leaving the chrome hose, only once it hit the ground. In the photo above, you can see it coming from where the tube enters the case.
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Ear Shave, K&N Filters, Mean Streak Seat, AGM battery, Blue Wire Mod, Pick-up Coil Mod, Timing Advance Mod, NGK Iridium Plugs and Wire, LEDs, Bed Liner Paint Job, Over-sized Tires, New Brakes, New Fork Seals, Progressive Springs, Kick Stand Mod, Highway Pegs, 40/140 No Shims, Vance & Hines Exhaust, New Grips, Extra Wide Emgo Handle Bars
John 8:44, REV 2:9, REV 3:9 - If you were kicked out of 109 bars, would you think the problem was you, or the 109 bars?
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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-22-2020, 09:15 AM
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My bad, I think you told me that before and I'm just being daft.

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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-22-2020, 09:23 AM Thread Starter
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No worries! So replace the collars at the hose, and check the fuel level then potentially pull the carbs. What is the head gasket check? I can check the oil in the site glass, to see if it is a milkshake color...

'08 Road King Classic
'86 VN750:
Ear Shave, K&N Filters, Mean Streak Seat, AGM battery, Blue Wire Mod, Pick-up Coil Mod, Timing Advance Mod, NGK Iridium Plugs and Wire, LEDs, Bed Liner Paint Job, Over-sized Tires, New Brakes, New Fork Seals, Progressive Springs, Kick Stand Mod, Highway Pegs, 40/140 No Shims, Vance & Hines Exhaust, New Grips, Extra Wide Emgo Handle Bars
John 8:44, REV 2:9, REV 3:9 - If you were kicked out of 109 bars, would you think the problem was you, or the 109 bars?
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