Carb Sync - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-29-2020, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
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Carb Sync

So I saw the posts where you can build a manometer for $3. I just picked up a GS550 which has an inline 4 carb setup, and I need to sync my VN750 carbs because they are popping on deceleration. What setup would you use to be able to sync various types of carbs (CV versus inline)? I want something that isn't garbage, and is cheap enough that I won't feel dirty by purchasing it. I have never sync'd carbs either, so simple to use would be a plus.

'08 Road King Classic
'86 VN750:
Ear Shave, K&N Filters, Mean Streak Seat, AGM battery, Blue Wire Mod, Pick-up Coil Mod, Timing Advance Mod, NGK Iridium Plugs and Wire, LEDs, Bed Liner Paint Job, Over-sized Tires, New Brakes, New Fork Seals, Progressive Springs, Kick Stand Mod, Highway Pegs, 40/140 No Shims, Vance & Hines Exhaust, New Grips, Extra Wide Emgo Handle Bars
John 8:44, REV 2:9, REV 3:9 - If you were kicked out of 109 bars, would you think the problem was you, or the 109 bars?
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-29-2020, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSattler View Post
So I saw the posts where you can build a manometer for $3. I just picked up a GS550 which has an inline 4 carb setup, and I need to sync my VN750 carbs because they are popping on deceleration. What setup would you use to be able to sync various types of carbs (CV versus inline)? I want something that isn't garbage, and is cheap enough that I won't feel dirty by purchasing it. I have never sync'd carbs either, so simple to use would be a plus.
I just used a $30 gauge tool from amazon

https://www.amazon.com/ALPHA-MOTO-Ca...174710&sr=8-16

Syncing was the same process for the Vulcan and my inline 4 bandit. If you buy the 2 gauge tool instead of the 4 gauge tool it takes a bit longer with 4 cylinders, but essentially you sync a pair of the 4 carbs together and then sync both the pairs to each other. Just make sure you cut the hose and install the valve or the gauge will be impossible to read.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-29-2020, 12:22 PM
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I’m by no means a carb expert, but I just read that these carbs don’t really require synchronization. If the bike is stock then the popping on deceleration is most likely from the reed valves that are part of the emissions system. If that popping bothers you then I’d suggest searching the forum for “marbling or coastering” as this will cut off the ability for fresh air to be sucked into the exhaust and not combust unburnt fuel.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-29-2020, 02:45 PM
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Probably the coast enrichers stuck closed or clogged.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-29-2020, 02:47 PM
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^ What he said. CV carbs adjust by engine vacuum so you donít need to sync them. Just make sure they open at the same time you turn the throttle

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-29-2020, 03:26 PM Thread Starter
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Carb Sync

I’ve done everything that we could do to our VN. I got the coasters with RTV around the coaster and painted. I have 40/140 jets, with v&h exhaust. I just pulled the carbs to reclean them/replace seals. It was definitely backfiring more lately, but I didn't see too much build up. I’ve never adjusted the idle screw on the carb body, but it only adjusts the rear carb. I’ll make sure I clean the coaster enrichers with WD-40 and a microfiber. I soaked the body in vinegar and then sprayed all of the passages inside with carb cleaner and high pressure water.


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'08 Road King Classic
'86 VN750:
Ear Shave, K&N Filters, Mean Streak Seat, AGM battery, Blue Wire Mod, Pick-up Coil Mod, Timing Advance Mod, NGK Iridium Plugs and Wire, LEDs, Bed Liner Paint Job, Over-sized Tires, New Brakes, New Fork Seals, Progressive Springs, Kick Stand Mod, Highway Pegs, 40/140 No Shims, Vance & Hines Exhaust, New Grips, Extra Wide Emgo Handle Bars
John 8:44, REV 2:9, REV 3:9 - If you were kicked out of 109 bars, would you think the problem was you, or the 109 bars?

Last edited by MSattler; 04-29-2020 at 03:42 PM.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-02-2020, 10:33 PM
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I soaked the body in vinegar.
Never use an acid on aluminum!

1989 VN750
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-02-2020, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
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Whelp... too late. It did seem to work well though


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'08 Road King Classic
'86 VN750:
Ear Shave, K&N Filters, Mean Streak Seat, AGM battery, Blue Wire Mod, Pick-up Coil Mod, Timing Advance Mod, NGK Iridium Plugs and Wire, LEDs, Bed Liner Paint Job, Over-sized Tires, New Brakes, New Fork Seals, Progressive Springs, Kick Stand Mod, Highway Pegs, 40/140 No Shims, Vance & Hines Exhaust, New Grips, Extra Wide Emgo Handle Bars
John 8:44, REV 2:9, REV 3:9 - If you were kicked out of 109 bars, would you think the problem was you, or the 109 bars?
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-02-2020, 10:52 PM
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Never use an acid on aluminum!
Really?!!

Quick, alert the industries. New methods must be developed immediately!

But why? I realize certain acids and aluminum will make noxious fumes, even dangerous fumes, but there are ways it is done.

Vinegar is acidic, but lower strength. Been using it a lot in the ultrasonic cleaner.
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__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-02-2020, 11:00 PM
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But why? I realize certain acids and aluminum will make noxious fumes, even dangerous fumes, but there are ways it is done.
It removes the protective natural passive aluminium oxide layer and allows it to corrode until a new layer is formed. If any vinegar is left on the metal it will not form that protective layer.
Same like using chlorine or steel scrubbing pads with stainless steel can damage the passive oxide layer and make it corrode.

That last bit I know because I know a man that tried to clean his DeLorean with a scrubbing pad. Turned into a very expensive and ugly mess to fix.

1989 VN750
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2006 Honda Rebel Diesel
100mpg, low and slow

1982 Mercedes 300D
Modified engine, 4-speed manual
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