Leaking from petcock after rebuild - Page 5 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #41 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-26-2019, 07:23 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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First pic - Is that a hole in the float?



Second carb in the video - Can see the float valve hanging up, sticking.



Fuel inlets just press in, but will probably break off in the holes when you try to take them out. If they aren't leaking, don't fix them.



If the floats and float valves are ok, then just a good cleaning, inside too. The rubber tips on the float valves need to be intact, and where they seat needs to be clean and smooth.


Do you mean the first carb? Thatís the one that didnít seem to have full range of motion. I will clean it tonight and try to put it together, see if that fixes the flooding on prime issue


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post #42 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-26-2019, 08:16 AM
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Do you mean the first carb? Thatís the one that didnít seem to have full range of motion. I will clean it tonight and try to put it together, see if that fixes the flooding on prime issue


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First pic in post #39. Looks like a hole, but could be dirt on the side of the float. Shake the floats to make sure there's no gas in them.

I said a leak was the only way a float can be defective, that's not true. The tang that pushed the float valve can be broken, etc.

Then it was the second carb in the video that looked sticky.
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post #43 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-26-2019, 09:06 AM Thread Starter
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Oh! I assumed that it was supposed to look like the second carb, able to move freely, while the first carb had resistance and a short distance of travel. Thank you again for your help. I will clean them tonight and put them back together. Hopefully that will fix the issues. Besides the petcock... Not sure what to do there. Still able to suck air through the fuel lines, regardless of the position of the selector, and plugging the opposite hole.
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post #44 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-26-2019, 09:17 AM
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Maybe get another petcock, a used one and put the rebuild kit in it, or the manual TW 200 valve, or a new VN.

Replacement doesn't have to be one with the prime function.

If you get the carbs sorted out, you can at least ride until you deal with the petcock. Leave that vac port capped off.
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post #45 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-26-2019, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
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Okay, I took the floats apart and cleaned them. The front cylinder does not have the same amount of travel as the rear. Is this normal?


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John 8:44
REV 2:9
REV 3:9
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post #46 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-26-2019, 11:23 PM
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Did you find any dirt?

It's expected they would be closer in movement, but I'd put them on and try them. Float level is checked on the bike with gas in them anyway. General rule of thumb for carbs, hold the carb upside down and the top (the usual top) of the float should be level with the carb body where the bowl seals to the body. But these are weird carbs, with float chambers instead of bowls.

Have to be gentle, could possibly change the float level or damage the tip of the float valve.

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__________________________________________________ ____________
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post #47 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 06:12 AM Thread Starter
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Leaking from petcock after rebuild

The rear carb (the one you said was sticking, but had the longer movement) had the needle full of gunk.The two videos are before and after. I saw no dirt though, just a little varnish. The tips on both looked very nice, and sharp. I tried finding a video that showed travel of the floats, but no luck.

I can put it together, and it takes me 3 minutes if that to get the carbs out. I just unscrew the clamp holding the boot to the carb and pop out the carb. I never had to remove the boots from the block, even with the stock air cleaner in. Iím just hesitant to fill it up with gas again, after my last shower.

*edit*
I was watching the videos this morning and I got it. The front cylinder has less travel, but the float valve is closing all of the way. The rear cylinder (with more travel) closes the float valve at roughly the same amount of travel, but allows for more travel of the float. To simplify my question - was this by design? I see no broken or damaged parts, and the float has no resistance when operating. Should I move this question to a new thread since the topic has changed?

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'86 VN750 with the following work done to it, after sitting for 19 years:
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REV 2:9
REV 3:9
www.voat.co

Last edited by MSattler; 06-27-2019 at 08:05 AM.
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post #48 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 10:30 AM
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It looked like the one float may have been flexing a bit when you lifted it against the closed float valve. Since they're both closing about the same time, it should be good.

Not sure if the carbs sit at different angles when mounted or not. Thought maybe this is why there was a difference.

I'd just put them on and see how it runs. That one valve looked real sluggish before you cleaned it.

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__________________________________________________ ____________
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Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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post #49 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-28-2019, 06:14 AM Thread Starter
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Well the petcock is still leaking, but it fires right up now. In the process of putting on the tank, I discovered the yellow and black wire to the fuel sensor was rotted... after it broke off in the harness.


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'86 VN750 with the following work done to it, after sitting for 19 years:
John 8:44
REV 2:9
REV 3:9
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