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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Chandler, Arizona
The duct is replaceable, but costs around $100 if you mean the surge tank. Unless you really want the look, it might be cheaper to just fix it. I've never seen a carb "kit" for the Vulcan 750, you can buy individual parts at places like cheapcycleparts.com. Shouldn't need too many parts. There are a couple of super expensive parts in the Vulcan 750 carbs, the main diaphragms, and the coasting enrichener diaphragms. If those are ok, you should be able to buy all the other rubber and plastic parts for a reasonable price. I rebuilt my carbs once, when I had the engine out to replace the stator. And unfortunately I had to replace the coasting enrichener diaphragms. They were literally melted. I think it was caused by ethanol gas. They were $65 apiece and there are two.
Synchronizing the carbs depends on a whole lot of things. Aside from possible minor differences in the carbs themselves, engine compression and condition of the valves makes a big difference. If the compression is noticeably different in one cylinder than the other, you can help compensate for that by setting the carbs slightly different. I have a Motion Pro Mercury type synchronizer I bought 30 years ago, before they outlawed the sale of anything containing mercury. These are tricky, if you rev the engine too high, it can suck the mercury into the engine. You can also use dial type vacuum gauges. The idea is to get the intake manifold vacuum as close as possible between the two cylinders, at idle, then rev it up SLOWLY and see if it stays put. Sometimes it is impossible to get it perfect on a worn engine, if so you just have to get it as close as you can.
As far as removing the evap system, it's really not that difficult, but it would take several thousand words to try and describe it. My 2002 Vulcan finally had a serious engine failure at 108,000 miles, and I recently wound up buying a 1997 model with 21,000 miles on it. It still has both the air injection system and evap system on it. I can try to take some pictures when I remove it, but I have a cheap camera that doesn't take good closeups. The biggest part of the evap system is mounted onto the front of the swingarm. There is a rectangular cannister and a round vacuum pump. Just pull all the hoses off and yank it all out. Follow the hoses to where they go, remove them, and cap or plug what they attached too. An exception is the hoses on the two nipples at the rear of the gas tank. Just put hoses on both those, and run them down through the frame under the bike. I believe there is a hose that goes to the surge tank as well, but if you are not going to use that, you don't need to worry about it.
I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.
1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike