Fuel line connection - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Carbs and Fuel System
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-21-2018, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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Fuel line connection

If its not one thing, its another!!! I couldn't get the fuel lines off the petcock this past winter. I was in a hurry, so I just cut them. Figured it would be a little work to replace later, but not a big deal. I was right. This past weekend I got new lines installed rather easily, thanks to a very slender long pair of pliars. Today I was sliding on clamps and realized that the fuel line connection point on the back carb is cracked. Not sure if I cracked it getting the old line off or the new line on. Either way, I have a few questions....

I'm guessing I need to pull the air box to get the carb out so I can replace the damn thing?

It looks like that hose barb is actually part of a larger piece that I would have to buy, rather than just that little piece, right?

New, that larger piece is 215$. So, does anyone have a busted carb they want to part out to me?

Or is there a fix here that doesn't involve taking the carb off and replacing the whole damn thing?

And why is that damn connection made of plastic?!

Drew
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-21-2018, 05:23 PM
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there is a fuel inlet from a harley carb that works great, and I think its brass too.. someone will chime in with all the info I am sure.

I would imagine that at a minimum you need to pull tank off and airbox if you still have it. not sure tho, carbs may need to come out to change the inlets

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-21-2018, 05:59 PM
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Yup, what he said.... Arctic Cat also used that carb.

The carb is a CVK34 (34mm Keihin) and that's a 1/4" fuel inlet.

Best price I see is $5.95 w/free shipping, others are a lot higher.

Here's that one: https://www.getlowered.com/drag-spec...iABEgKArvD_BwE

and the search - https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...fmDC30Q8wIIwwI

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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-21-2018, 06:18 PM
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Quite a few on ebay too..... https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...Desc=0&_sop=15

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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-21-2018, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks! I will take a look at all that when I get to a computer. I'm glad to know that I only need to replace the inlet! Just to clarify, I will need to remove the air box and the carb to get at that inlet? I am guessing the ear removal posts explain how to remove the air box?

Its still more work than I want to do, but at least it's way cheaper than I thought!

Drew
'03 VN750 a little over 4300 miles
Spline lube
F&S Rear blinker relocation
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Mustang seat
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-22-2018, 09:45 AM
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To get the airbox out in one piece, you have to disconnect all the harness plugs under the seat and pull the harness forward out of the frame. Then you can flex and pull the airbox rearward and out above the battery. It just won't go with the wiring harness in place.

Good news is, each harness plug will only fit in one place on it's matching plug or component. Have to be really careful if the plugs are brittle.

You could opt to just remove the carbs, which is a real bear with the airbox in place.

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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-23-2018, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
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Hey Spockster, I read your "One Piece Airbox/Surge Tank Removal-no cutting" post. seems pretty straight forward. I'm not sure what all that stuff is exactly, but I'm pretty good at taking things apart!

Once I get the carbs off, I'm guessing i need to drill out the brass nub that the plastic inlet attaches to? Then the new inlet is just a pressure fit? Do I need to add some permatex or something?

Thanks for all the help!

Drew
'03 VN750 a little over 4300 miles
Spline lube
F&S Rear blinker relocation
F&S Luggage rack
Saddlebags
F&S Extended backrest
Mustang seat
F&S Engine guard
Plexifairing 3 windshield
KM style dash
LED everything + additional brake lights &
LED plate bolts


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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-23-2018, 04:18 PM
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I wouldn't use sealer, it migrates into the carb and makes big trouble later.

The new one is press-fit, and the nub has to come out. Just the right sized bolt might thread in and pull it out, or carefully drill it without cutting the carb body.

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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-23-2018, 04:25 PM
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Learned a trick recently while trying to remove brake bleeder valves that might help here ... stick in a drill bit the same size as the hole, then use vice grips on the outside of the nipple to pull it out. The bit works to keep the nipple from collapsing and breaking off. Possibly safer than trying to drill it out if you can get it to move.
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-23-2018, 05:22 PM
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Yeah... and drilling will likely get chips in th' carburetor.

I recommend using the shank end of the drill bit with Thorn's technique.
When squeezing the flute end, it's easy to break off chips from the drill.
A soft bolt or correct size round stock would work good, too.

Of course with drill bits, one has more varied size selection.

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