Boots? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Carbs and Fuel System
From the gas tank to the carbs
All fuel system discussion

 3Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-21-2018, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Jim-n-AZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 12
iTrader: (0)
 
Boots?

Found out that my carb boots are leaking. Where can I buy quality carb boots for a 1994 vn750? I saw some on eBay but didn't know about the quality. Thanks.

Jim n AZ
Jim-n-AZ is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-21-2018, 04:57 PM
Members who have donated towards server costs
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: southern, western, middle Tennessee backwoods
Posts: 278
iTrader: (0)
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim-n-AZ View Post
Found out that my carb boots are leaking. Where can I buy quality carb boots for a 1994 vn750? I saw some on eBay but didn't know about the quality. Thanks.

https://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/o.../cylinder-head


HOLDER-CARBURETOR,FR
Item #16065-1122
$30.89
1
$30.89

HOLDER-CARBURETOR,RR
Item #16065-1123
$30.89


**Edit: Someone else might know a cheaper source.
Jim-n-AZ likes this.

"I need yo clothes, yo boots and yo motocycle."- Uncle Bob

Last edited by roadpouring; 07-21-2018 at 06:02 PM.
roadpouring is offline  
post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-24-2018, 08:09 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Jim-n-AZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 12
iTrader: (0)
 
Well it turns out one of the boots was just loose. I tightened it up and now the boots are fine. So I have an oem set of boots on the way that will sit on the shelf. But I still have the original issue.

The motor at times will idle at 3000 or so RPM and at other times won't idle at all. It almost smells like one cylinder is not firing. I've done some reading on the Forum and have tried a couple suggestions.

In searching for vacuum leaks I sprayed some starter fluid on top of the front cylinder (under the tank) and it kills the motor immediately. Did it twice. Is that normal? Don't want to take the tank off if I don't have to.

Jim n AZ

Last edited by Jim-n-AZ; 07-24-2018 at 08:21 PM.
Jim-n-AZ is offline  
 
post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-24-2018, 09:02 PM
Senior Member
 
kryptonianjorel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Washington DC
Posts: 167
iTrader: (0)
 
Removing the tank is about the easiest thing you can do on this bike, so don't let it worry you if you have to do it. Have you cleaned the carbs since buying? I'm no expert, but it could be a stuck float valve? Were you idling normally before this issue, or has it idled this high since purchasing the bike? When I bought mine, it idled really high, but I think the previous owner turned the idle screw way up to keep it from stalling at lights (it needed some work). So perhaps that is due to the idle screw.

I'd clean the carbs and give the bike a test after that. If it solves the dying problem but still idles high, try the idle screw
kryptonianjorel is offline  
post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-24-2018, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Jim-n-AZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 12
iTrader: (0)
 
Pulled the tank and found this line circled in green. I cannot see any place to hook it up. The other end goes to a Tee between the carbs. I did some reading and it sounds like there should be a vacuum line to the right ear, but this is on the left side. The petcock did have 3 lines connected. Also, this is on the area where I would spray starter fluid and the motor would instantly die...
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20180724_193919.jpg
Views:	38
Size:	96.7 KB
ID:	45031  

Jim n AZ
Jim-n-AZ is offline  
post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-24-2018, 11:32 PM
Member
 
Rob112o's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Alameda Ca
Posts: 90
iTrader: (0)
 
That looks like it would have gone on the back of your air filter unit. I guess you have pods on your carb?

2000 VN750
Digital voltmeter
Lubed spline (5k)
New tires (5k)
Pick up coils to .20mm
K&N air&oil filters
Relocate R&R
2 wire mod
Iridium plugs (7.2k)
Change oil and filter (8.6k)
Removal of the CA emissions (7.3k)
Cap Reed valves off the engine (7.3k)
Redesign stock seat (8k)
Change Engine Ice (8k)
Install KLR650 bars (8.3k)
Change final drive oil (8.3k)
Install power source & phone mount (8.5k)
Rob112o is offline  
post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-25-2018, 02:33 AM
Senior Member
 
kryptonianjorel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Washington DC
Posts: 167
iTrader: (0)
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim-n-AZ View Post
Pulled the tank and found this line circled in green. I cannot see any place to hook it up. The other end goes to a Tee between the carbs. I did some reading and it sounds like there should be a vacuum line to the right ear, but this is on the left side. The petcock did have 3 lines connected. Also, this is on the area where I would spray starter fluid and the motor would instantly die...
Is this the crankcase hose?
kryptonianjorel is offline  
post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-25-2018, 08:34 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Jim-n-AZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 12
iTrader: (0)
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob112o View Post
That looks like it would have gone on the back of your air filter unit. I guess you have pods on your carb?
Yes I have the pods (or ears). And yeah, I'm guessing that's where it goes. Everything I read said it should go to the right side air filter, so I was hoping that was my problem... I've sprayed starter fluid everywhere, and after tightening the rear boot, nothing else made a difference. After pulling the tank, I saw that where I was spraying between the front carb and tank that was killing the motor, was probably just a fluid induced short. So I'm back to square one...

Engine fluctuates between idling at high rpms for a few minutes then trying to die unless I open the throttle... It smells and feels like one of the cylinders is cutting in and out.

Not that I'm an emoji guy, but this one expresses my feelings...


Jim n AZ
Jim-n-AZ is offline  
post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-25-2018, 09:53 AM
2014 KLR 650!
 
Goofyfoot2001's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Tega Cay, SC
Posts: 3,359
iTrader: (1)
 
I highly recommend the tw200 petcock mod. Takes another element out of the fuel to combustion equation.

2014 Kawasaki KLR 650
Back to the Kawa World
Goofyfoot2001 is offline  
post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-25-2018, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Jim-n-AZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 12
iTrader: (0)
 
It's getting fuel. When it starts the spuddering and not idling, i smell gas big time, unburnt fuel... If there's nothing I need to check with th tank off, I'll put it back on, start the bike up, wait for the spudder, and pull one plug at a time. All the plug wires are connected...

Jim n AZ
Jim-n-AZ is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

Once registered, your User Name"cannot be changed". We can make exceptions within 7 days, but after that, it is set in stone.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome