Main 30 amp fuse blows even with ignition off - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-27-2009, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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Unhappy Main 30 amp fuse blows even with ignition off

I love this bike but constant electrical issues plague me, I hope you lot can help me sort them out, it can't just be the British weather.... can it?

Initially, while touring in France the pins on the original regulator rectifier broke, replaced with a pattern one, then the alternator burnt out, replaced this, again with a pattern one. System checked charging only at 13v. Battery kept dying, especially when riding with the lights on. Then the 30amp fuse blew. Replaced this and had no problems for two days then blew again. Replaced it to get home, charged battery, took for test drive, got 12 miles before bike died, but fuse did not blow. Charged battery got 3 more miles, fuse blew. Now, even with ignition off and key out, the fuse blows as soon as you offer it to the junction box... any ideas would be gratefully recieved. As I said, I absolutely love this bike but the unreliability is making it a chore to own. Forever hopeful of finding the source of the problem. thanks, Big General.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-27-2009, 07:03 PM
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im going to go out on a limb here and say you have a grounded electrical connection somewhere.... im not en expert on electrical systems but thats the only thing i can think of that would blow a fuse like that....
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-27-2009, 07:18 PM
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What I would do it start from the positive terminal of the battery and check every connection to make sure there aren't any shorts to ground. The ignition harness is good place to be especially vigilant as is behind the headlight. In order for your fuse to blow even with the ignition off, there has to be a short somewhere. The fuse is doing its job of protecting the rest of the electrical system.

Based on the info you give that the R/R started having problems and then the stator went, I'd have to assume a previous electrical condition especially since you were only getting 13 volts at the battery after a stator replacement. One bad thing about electrical problems is that they don't get any better with time, they only get worse.

Jim W
93 VN 750 "Ursula"
Moved R/R 08Sep06
R/R rewire 17Feb07
New R/R, Installed 14Jun08
New Stator installed 10 Jun08
Maintenance Free Battery 12Jan08
21480 Miles
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-27-2009, 08:31 PM
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check the fan switch,if it looks bad change it
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-27-2009, 09:57 PM
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Check the ignition switch.

Oh yes, welcome to the group.

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-28-2009, 07:36 AM
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One thought to give you encouragement: since the main fuse blows with the ignition off, the short should be easy to find because it's fairly well isolated. All circuits protected by the lesser fuses are AFTER the ignition switch. Remove the side covers and the seat and tank and follow the wiring through the junction panel to the front of the bike where the ignition switch is and down through the starter relay.

'03 Vulcan 750 (90k miles)
-Corbin Seat
-V-Force Windshield
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-Replaced Stator (9,000 and 16,000 mi.)
-Oil-cooled Stator Mod (photos)
-Replaced and Relocated R/R
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-Metzeler ME880 Marathon 170/80-15 (Rear), 110/90-19 (Front)
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-28-2009, 08:25 AM
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Since you are riding in heavy air (fog,mist,rain). It would be a very good idea to clean and if needed tighten every connection. Then fill the female connectors with dielectric grease. This will slow corrosion of the connectors and help prevent water induced short circuits.
I agree it must be a short in the primary feed to the ignition. Look for any worn points on the insulation.

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-28-2009, 08:39 AM
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I had this problem shortly after getting my bike. I think I fixed it when I found the wires going up around the steeling colomn had started rubbing through. If you didn't have your headlight out before, try pulling that and checking all those wires around there.

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-28-2009, 10:01 AM
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Trying to understand a few things about your first post. You said the pins broke off the R/R. How did this happen? Was it in its original location?

You said you replaced it with a "pattern" one. What does this mean?

I'm trying to have you clarify because it seems that you have started having gobs of trouble since the pins broke on your regulator and you replaced it. Whatever caused the pins to break might have done other damage??? Or maybe the regulator you replaced it with is the wrong one??? Can you give more information?

Kyle, TX member #707 VROC#19556
2002 VN1500 Classic
Spline Lube Procedure, with photos, R/R Relocation and Coil Mod
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Electrical Fault Finding Flowchart

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-28-2009, 12:33 PM
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One possibility is the regulator/rectifier. If you disconnect it, does the fuse still blow?
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battery , shorting out , weak charging

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