What's wrong w/ my bike? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-25-2009, 04:58 PM Thread Starter
 
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What's wrong w/ my bike?

I'm a Newbie here but, I get the principles and I've just purchased a 1995 Kawasaki Vulcan 750 (A11), having not heard it actually run.
The bike has only #1538 miles on it: that's not a typo. Original title was in my hand before I went to DMV. The original owner was a retired gentleman who never rode it. The second owner (who never transfered the title) was a young gentleman who had possession for a year, but couldn't figure it out and sold it to me.

The extremely low miles are genuine. The bike's in too good a condition for them to not be original.

Here's what I know after a week of ownership...

The tags expired in 2003. The original owner renewed then in 2007, but never installed the tags. It's been sitting in a shed for about 8 years.
The youngun' had the carbs professionally rebuilt last fall (Sept 2008), but the shop put the choke levers together wrong. It was sticky, so I pulled the carbs and fixed that. It's smooth as silk now. (But, leaves me wondering whether they built the innards right.)

I've bench-tested the R/R and the Stator. They spec right as long as the engine's NOT running. (continuity, resistance, etc. I do wonder if the A1,A2,A3 - yellow wires can be mixed up w/o problems?)

Cured one problem via a thread between poggiPJ and Glenn M...
{Search title: Front cylinder will not fire. I'd post the URL, but I'm a newbie and the system won't let me.}
One of my issues was the same: Front cylinder would not burn, despite spark. Solution was the same.... return the front coil red and black wires to their factory location (red = front; black = rear) on the coil.
NOTE: rear cylinder coil appears correct: red = top; green = bottom.
(I am reading the factory manual referred to in that thread.)

I've added new fuel and 1/2 can of Seafoam.
Now I'm firing on both cylinders. And, the choke appears to function exactly right. The bike starts perfect and sounds right (possibly a tapping lifter on the rear cylinder).

With a brand new battery (12.78v), idling nicely at 1000rpm, I'm getting 13.88v of charge.

But, I can't check any higher than that, because...
I cannot touch the throttle or, it dies.
This seems worse as the engine warms up.

What do you think I should look at next?

Last edited by IIonPilgrimg; 02-25-2009 at 05:04 PM.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-25-2009, 05:06 PM
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Make sure that there aren't any air leaks between the carbs and the head. If no leaks, you may have to clean the carbs.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-25-2009, 05:36 PM
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Check the vacuum hoses for leaks while you're at it. Another thought is to check the mixture screws, might not be adjusted right or dirty. Just another random thought.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-25-2009, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
 
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Air leaks, vacuum hoses & mix-screws.
All are good points.
The manual says all the ports on the air-box need to be sealed right-good, too. That seems like a real trick w/ how tight it's all jammed together.

Mix-screws: currently both set at 2 turns out. (They were at 1.5 turns out before I touched them.) I have NOT messed w/ these professionally rebuilt carbs, otherwise - except to fix their choke boo-boo, noted above. I'll see what the book says about static setting. (Oh, I do not have a vacuum guage set, so I can't synchronize them. I may get one though.)

Last edited by IIonPilgrimg; 02-25-2009 at 06:58 PM.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-25-2009, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IIonPilgrimg View Post
Oh, I do not have a vacuum guage set, so I can't synchronize them. I may get one though.
I have and use one of these (http://www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp) and it works great. (thanks for the link Cindy)

Jon

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vn750.com Member # 828

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-25-2009, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IIonPilgrimg View Post
With a brand new battery (12.78v), idling nicely at 1000rpm, I'm getting 13.88v of charge.

But, I can't check any higher than that, because...
I cannot touch the throttle or, it dies.
This seems worse as the engine warms up.

What do you think I should look at next?
Your problem is fuel/air related. My guess would be a vacuum leak as when you open the throttle the mixture instantly goes too lean to keep the bike running.

Look for a vacuum leak between the cylinders and the carbs. Perhaps one of the rubber boots is not on correctly since they were professionally rebuilt. The rubber boots have to be "clocked" correctly in order to form a good seal.

Jon

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vn750.com Member # 828

Rick's Stator and R/R
MF AGM Battery
Coastered
Degoated
Shaved & Jetted
Iridium's
MAC Tapered Staggered Pipes
Battery/Temp/Clock Gauge
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Dunlop D-404's
23,XXX miles and holding pending gasket change (underway!!!)
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-26-2009, 06:37 PM
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I think it's also possible that the seafoam hasn't had enough time to do its trick. You also might want to check for bug/critter nests in your exhaust. Check out your air filter boxes for critters too. If it sat for 8 years, no telling. But since the carbs were pulled, it very well might be a vacuum leak too. (this is more of a "thinking out loud" post) But seafoam might take a few days to get things dissolved.

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Kyle, TX VN750.com member #707 VROC#19556
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Spline Lube Procedure, with photos, R/R Relocation and Coil Mod
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-03-2009, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
 
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I found the problem !

Those professionally rebuilt carburetors???
They were full of crystalline sediments...
Didn't discover that until after I bought a NOS computer (igniter).

Incidentally, the Kawasaki manual on this bike has an igniter diagnostic chart in chapter #15. I wanted to be sure I didn't blow this new igniter by testing it with my multi-meter, so I asked the 'professional' shop if they had the Kawasaki meter the book recommends. They did not. And it was obvious they didn't want to help me figure this out. But, they did give me the phone number for Kawasaki Customer Service, who assured me my multi-meter would NOT blow out the igniter. While on the phone with them, they volunteered that the 'test' doesn't work as printed in the manual. But, they didn't have a correction to offer.
(Now, I do... see attachment)

So, I'm now in possession of two igniters, both confirmed good and both tested w/ an ohm-meter. I'll post my results, if the system will let me.
This Excel spreadsheet is a pre-installation ohm-test of a 2000 Old Original Stock igniter box that has NEVER been bolted to a bike. Perhaps, it had been plugged in and tested by the factory before shipping. The marks on the pins would so indicate. The original Kawasaki 'parts' box came with the igniter...

If your results are the same as in this attachment, your igniter is likely GOOD, and you should look elsewhere for your problem. There are two problems w/ the 'test' table in the manual...
1) It shows the negative ohm-meter lead at the left and the + lead at the top, for all tests. This is not accurate... For the tests on the 4-pin connector, it's correct. But, for the test on the 6-pin connector, you should reverse them... + on the left, and - on the top.
2) The readings will match the chart for the 4-pin connector, but will NOT match the chart for all of the pins of the 6-pin connector.

grrrr...

Anyway, the front slow-jet was 100% plugged, the rear one was partially plugged. I suspect the 'professional' shop didn't clean out the sediments in the carbs - ie: they didn't actually rebuild them. Also, the Air Cut Valve Diaphragm (SKU: 43028-1053) on the front carb is degraded by cleaning solutions - which means someone 'cleaned' these carbys without disassembling them: fuel never comes near them under normal operation.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf IgniterTest-NewUnit.pdf (10.3 KB, 20 views)
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-04-2009, 12:26 PM
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[QUOTE=IIonPilgrimg;86135]I found the problem !

Those professionally rebuilt carburetors???
They were full of crystalline sediments... :wow
:
Didn't discover that until after I bought a NOS computer (igniter).

Incidentally, the Kawasaki manual on this bike has an igniter diagnostic chart in chapter #15. I wanted to be sure I didn't blow this new igniter by testing it with my multi-meter, so I asked the 'professional' shop if they had the Kawasaki meter the book recommends. They did not. And it was obvious they didn't want to help me figure this out. But, they did give me the phone number for Kawasaki Customer Service, who assured me my multi-meter would NOT blow out the igniter. While on the phone with them, they volunteered that the 'test' doesn't work as printed in the manual. But, they didn't have a correction to offer.
(Now, I do... see attachment
)

So, I'm now in possession of two igniters, both confirmed good and both tested w/ an ohm-meter. I'll post my results, if the system will let me.
This Excel spreadsheet is a pre-installation ohm-test of a 2000 Old Original Stock igniter box that has NEVER been bolted to a bike. Perhaps, it had been plugged in and tested by the factory before shipping. The marks on the pins would so indicate. The original Kawasaki 'parts' box came with the igniter...

If your results are the same as in this attachment, your igniter is likely GOOD, and you should look elsewhere for your problem. There are two problems w/ the 'test' table in the manual...
1) It shows the negative ohm-meter lead at the left and the + lead at the top, for all tests. This is not accurate... For the tests on the 4-pin connector, it's correct. But, for the test on the 6-pin connector, you should reverse them... + on the left, and - on the top.
2) The readings will match the chart for the 4-pin connector, but will NOT match the chart for all of the pins of the 6-pin connector.

grrrr...

Anyway, the front slow-jet was 100% plugged, the rear one was partially plugged. I suspect the 'professional' shop didn't clean out the sediments in the carbs - ie: they didn't actually rebuild them. Also, the Air Cut Valve Diaphragm (SKU: 43028-1053) on the front carb is degraded by cleaning solutions - which means someone 'cleaned' these carbys without disassembling them: fuel never comes near them under normal operation.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the info on the carbs and ignitor tests, IIP. I`m going to print this page and stick it in my Clymers manual, for the day when it will be needed.

As regards your "professionally rebuilt" carbs, that`s arother testimonial to the advisability for us learning to do our own wrenching, as much as possible, as you are doing. Good on ya mate, I hope you are riding soon.

Gordon

1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

H-D windshield
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TOP TEN THINGS A NEW RIDER/OWNER SHOULD DO. Click on link.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/11-vn750-general-discussion/9127-top-ten-items-you-would-suggest-new-owner-do-his-new-ride.html
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-04-2009, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
 
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I am riding, now!
(OK, maybe not while typing this.)
Anywhooo,
It's running exactly as it should. Even ran low on the 1st tank of gas and switched to reserve to get me to the station. 2nd tank in progress. The wrench will be dedicated to removing parts for cleaning and polishing, now.
Yeee, hawwww!!
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