Charging Problems when Engine is Hot - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-26-2017, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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Charging Problems when Engine is Hot

Last summer I replaced the stator and R/R with a MOSFET type. I also bypassed the junction box and went straight to the battery from the R/R. Each stator lead and the positive wire from the R/R are protected by an inline fuse. I don't remember the brands exactly, but I think the stator is an Electrosport and the R/R is a Shindigen. If it's important, I can look up the details. Since I had so many problems with the charging circuit before, I also added a digital voltage meter to my handlebars, so I can constantly monitor battery voltage.

Here's my new problem. When my engine is cold, I think everything works like it should. I get about 12.6 V at idle, and between 13.9-14.3 V when running around 4000 rpm. My problem is that when the engine gets up to operating temperature, I'm only getting the battery voltage of 12.4 V across the entire RPM range. (On a side note, the temperature gauge usually lands around 80% of the way to red before reaching steady state. Is that normal, or should it be running a little cooler? Perhaps it's running hotter than it should, which could be the root of the problem.)

My theory is that the stator is bad even though it is less than a year old. The first one I received was bad from the factory, so I don't have much confidence in Electrosport stators. Everything is fine at low temp, but maybe after things heat up and expand, there's a short to ground. I think I could get the bike hot and pull each lead and check if there's a short to ground to confirm my suspicion.

Any thoughts? If it is a bad stator, which stator do you recommend? I'd really like one that can last more than 1000 miles. The stator cover mod might be worth doing this time around.

It would be pretty frustrating to rip everything apart again, but at least this time around I'll know what I'm doing. The worst part about the whole process is getting it to not leak oil from somewhere after taking everything apart. I still get a drip here or there. I'm not sure where exactly, but my hunch is that it's coming out of the bevel gear case shaft seal. How hard are those to replace?
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-26-2017, 11:13 AM
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Another thing to consider, where does your voltmeter take the readings from, the headlight bucket accessory leads? or directly from the battery posts?

(but yeah Electrosport stators are notorious around here, unfortunately)

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-26-2017, 12:12 PM
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Check for short to ground after warm up.Do yourself a big favor, do the cover mod and if you haven't checked the dampers you want to.My first stator replacement had a loose wire so I had to pull it 2X I dumped " Blanche " Labor Day . Got home, about 15 miles from where I dumped her. I noticed as soon as I started her she was not charging, stator was cooked. I got one from Troy Gros at Willies Cycle Inc 2669 Old 280 RD Camp Hill AL 36850 He shipped it same day. Good luck keep us posted !

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-26-2017, 12:41 PM
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I also purchased 1/4 inch rubber gasket material if anyone has trouble with a leaking cover , the smallest piece I could buy was 3'x5' sheet so I have plenty for sale! Anyone needs a piece let Me know.

1985 700 Vulcan / Purchased 13,636 miles currently 19,126/Fork Seals & Dust Covers/Ignition Switch/AGM Battery/Hell Fire Windshield/River Roads Saddle Bags/Coil Relay Mod/2Wire Mod/RLU Bypass/Head Light Switch/Voltage monitor Green light/Mosfit R&R/Tuxedo Mod/Stator/Point Gap .020/ Dampers/Rear Signal & Brake Light LED'S/Rebuilt Shutoff Valve/Final Drive Gear Oil/Brake Shoes/Spline & Hub Lube/11 inch Progressive Shocks/De Goated/Engine Guard/Rejetted For K/N Pods/TOC mcct's
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-26-2017, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparkys73150 View Post
Check for short to ground after warm up.Do yourself a big favor, do the cover mod and if you haven't checked the dampers you want to.My first stator replacement had a loose wire so I had to pull it 2X I dumped " Blanche " Labor Day . Got home, about 15 miles from where I dumped her. I noticed as soon as I started her she was not charging, stator was cooked. I got one from Troy Gros at Willies Cycle Inc 2669 Old 280 RD Camp Hill AL 36850 He shipped it same day. Good luck keep us posted !
That's the stator I've been recommending, so I think you're #3 that's tried one. I don't know how some stay in business with the fail rate we see on some other brands. Willie's is also Cycletronics, you can find them both on ebay as well, and one or both have a website.

It's always best to test the stator cold and hot, failing when hot is a common problem.

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-26-2017, 02:59 PM Thread Starter
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Can you clarify the "dampers?" Are they the rubber pieces that are on the bolts that mount the engine to the frame?

Volt meter is connected directly to battery terminals, and I ran the wire under the tank.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-26-2017, 04:50 PM
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Good, direct to battery means you're getting an accurate reading of charge. Sounds like your stator is getting close to or completely failing when hot, no bueno. Maybe a willies cycle will help, wouldn't hurt to check the stator on its own to rule out a failing R/R (not likely unless you bought a Chinese/cheap one)

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-26-2017, 05:08 PM
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also, the dampers we're talking about are small rubber pieces inside the stator case (so , basically, inside the engine) which are prone to fail after so many years and cause excessive vibration and/or damage inside the engine if left unchecked after a while. Next time you take the stator off (if you need to replace it, which it unfortunately sounds like you do) you ought to replace those dampers as well since you only need to undo 2 bolts and purchase a flywheel puller ($10-15) to access them. We can help you out more with them when you get to ordering parts

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-11-2018, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
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Problem Solved

This is an older thread, but I just wanted to post my solution in case someone else has the same problem. Last Fall, after I thought my stator developed a short at high temps, I put the motorcycle away for the winter. I'd deal with that problem in the Spring. A few weeks ago, I tried to get the motorcycle running, and I had all sorts of problems with the battery. It just wouldn't have enough current to start the bike no matter how long I tried to charge it. Bought a new battery, charged it up, and now the bike runs great. I get 14.2 V throughout the rev and temperature range. I think the old battery was sucking up all the current the stator could make, which led to a low voltage on my volt meter. I'm pretty glad I checked out the battery again before tearing into the stator.
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