Two-wire mod report - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-22-2017, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
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Two-wire mod report

Well, at least I didn't violate the first rule of doctorin'/mechanicin': do no harm.

At best, I might have eliminated a slight parasitic loss of some kind in the JB, but it's difficult to tell... Normally, when the weather is as hot as it is right now, seeing a charging voltage in excess of 13.1V on this bike is a rare event. I'm seeing 13.1V at *idle* now (dropping to 12.6V if I turn on the directional signal), and at anything over 1,200 RPM or so, 13.1V is the new minimum: 13.2V being seen often, and occasionally 13.3V. Charging system doesn't seem to be working as hard to stay above 13V, but that's about all the improvement I note presently.

As far as the work itself, I won't rehash most of what's already in several good threads on this mod. If you don't have a copy of the service manual from TOC, get it. Page 15-30 has a diagram of the electric starter circuit that should confirm for you that pins 11 and 13 on the 10-pin connector are the wires of interest. What the diagram *won't* tell you is the physical location of those pins. The pin-numbering scheme for the JB connectors is definitely NOT what I'd call sensible. Page 15-50 of the service manual has a diagram of the JB connectors with the pins numbered. Here's what I mean by "not sensibly numbered":

With the JB in its usual orientation, the outside five pins of the 10-pin connector from bottom to top are 11, 12, 13, 5, and 4. The inside five pins from bottom to top are 15, 9, NC, 14, and 16. You care about finding pins 11 and 13, which are associated with the JB's starter relay identified as component number 27 on the diagram.

The service manual says the wire in pin 11 is black. Mine was black w/red stripe as reported in other two-wire mod threads. The theory is early model year bikes do, in fact, have a black wire in the pin 11 position. The pin 13 wire was yellow w/red stripe in agreement with the diagram.

As I had previously accomplished the blue-wire mod, doing the two-wire mod didn't affect the functionality of the existing headlight circuit.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-22-2017, 10:18 PM
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Voltage readings sound good. How is your voltmeter wired? And what R/R do you have installed right now?

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-23-2017, 12:08 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ubertalldude View Post
Voltage readings sound good. How is your voltmeter wired? And what R/R do you have installed right now?
Voltmeter wired directly across the battery, except for the display background lighting that's wired through the ignition switch so it doesn't come on except when the bike is otherwise "on". R/R is the Shindengen SH775 (series), relocated to the standard location near the left passenger footpeg. Stator is a Tim Parrott with his best grade of high-temp wire.

For what it's worth, the tpe-usa.com website is gone: DNS lookup fails. The last time Tim and I exchanged any stator-related e-mail was earlier this year. At that time, he could be reached at [email protected]

Last edited by hmrct; 07-23-2017 at 12:15 AM. Reason: Tim Parrott contact info
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-23-2017, 12:09 PM
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Thanks for the report. 13.1-13.3v looks like an improvement, but the 12.6v with turn signal on isn't charging at all.

Seems to be more troubles somewhere. What's the battery voltage at rest?

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-24-2017, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Seems to be more troubles somewhere. What's the battery voltage at rest?
Idle, or ignition off? At idle without the turn signals operating, 13.1V unless the idle dips below spec (which happens when the engine is cold -- I adjusted the idle speed with the engine warm). Ignition off reading depends mostly on what the voltage was just before switching off the engine. Generally no higher than 12.4V immediately after shutdown, dropping to 12.1V almost immediately, and then a gradual slide down to a long stable interval at 11.9V beginning about 48 hours after shutdown and extending to a week without being on a battery tender.

The voltmeter on the bike is from one of those cruiser customizing vendors out in California, and includes a clock and dual temperature sensors -- interior and exterior. The former sensor is built into the device head, whereas the exterior sensor is on a wire and can be located anywhere within reach: I've got it attached high along the left fork tube where I can get a meaningful reading of what's coming off the road while riding. The unfortunate part of deciding to go with this unit is the current draw even with the backlight turned off (when the ignition is off): I seem to remember the draw was somewhere around 500 mA without the backlight, and given that you *really* don't want to let this bike sit two weeks between rides without putting it on a tender, I'd say the current draw I remember is about right. With the voltmeter/clock/thermometer disconnected, there's no measurable current draw, so I don't have any electrical problems elsewhere in the system that I can detect.

The AGM battery seems to be a mixed blessing... When I take it out of the bike and put it on a charger, it will take a full charge: the "full charge" indicator lamp comes on after an appropriate amount of time for whatever discharge state the battery was in, just the way it's supposed to as the charger goes into "float" mode. Upon disconnecting the charger and leaving the battery out of the bike, the voltage eventually settles at 12.4V. Obviously it will stay there longer (at least a few days) without the bike's voltmeter attached.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-24-2017, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
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I didn't buy the voltmeter/clock/thermometer from J&P, but here's a link so y'all know what I'm trying to describe:

Show Chrome Accessories Digital 5-Function Volt Meter | ZZ73218 | J&P Cycles
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-24-2017, 04:36 PM
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Have you checked the voltmeter against a multimeter?

With a relatively new AGM the battery should be around 12.5 to 12.8 volts with the motor off. I've had readings as high as 14.9 volts while riding.

This of course is all moot as long as the bike is starting and running without any problems.

Photo of my voltmeter with the bike off after four days sitting:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/knifem...57602277628495

If You Are Not Sure If I Am Joking or Not....I AM !!Photos:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/knifemaker1954/sets/

Last edited by Knifemaker; 07-24-2017 at 04:49 PM.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-24-2017, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
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Voltmeter vs. multimeter: usually in agreement :-).

I like the dashboard mod. Particularly approve of battery-powered or mechanical clock vs. my digital one. Thinking seriously about migrating to a setup something like yours, because I just don't see a standalone voltmeter drawing anywhere near the juice my "swiss army" voltmeter/clock/thermometer does. Just out of curiosity (if the information is handy), what *is* the current draw on your meter?
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-24-2017, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Ignition off reading depends mostly on what the voltage was just before switching off the engine. Generally no higher than 12.4V immediately after shutdown, dropping to 12.1V almost immediately, and then a gradual slide down to a long stable interval at 11.9V beginning about 48 hours after shutdown and extending to a week without being on a battery tender.
That's really on the low side, 11.9-12.1v is certainly discharged.

As KM said, you should see 12.6v or higher. AGMs are better than usual, mine held 13.1v for several months just sitting.

Only time I've seen 15v was with a really loose battery terminal. The meter pegged to the blue 15v light.

Quote:
Fully charged automotive batteries should measure at 12.6 volts or above.
State of Charge Voltage 12V

100% ..12.7
75% ..12.4
50% ..12.2
25% ..12.0
Discharged 11.9
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2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf

Last edited by Spockster; 07-24-2017 at 06:20 PM.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-24-2017, 06:24 PM
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How old is the battery?

It is possible for a weak battery to pull peak charge voltage down. As long as it is starting and running ok, I wouldn't worry too much, but a new battery may show a better charge rate on the bike.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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