Guessing its an electrical issue - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-15-2009, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
 
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Guessing its an electrical issue

My bike will not attempt to start. Its been sitting for about 3 months. I went to start it up today and nothing happens what so ever. Its like the kill switch is off but its not. The battery has plenty of juice and since nothing happens I am guessing that it is electrical, maybe somewhere near the ignition button or maybe the kill switch has gone bad? Any ideas on where to start to track down the problem? Thanks!!
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-16-2009, 02:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cardinal Fang View Post
My bike will not attempt to start. Its been sitting for about 3 months. I went to start it up today and nothing happens what so ever. Its like the kill switch is off but its not. The battery has plenty of juice and since nothing happens I am guessing that it is electrical, maybe somewhere near the ignition button or maybe the kill switch has gone bad? Any ideas on where to start to track down the problem? Thanks!!
Sounds like your Flux Capaciter has crapped out, you can purchace one from the link below. LOL Just kidding, let's start with the basics then move to the hair pulling segment (hair and alcohol required) if needed. O.K. lets start with the basics: but first you must answer some questions and provide a credit statement along with a criminal background, blood and urine samples!! It is merely a formality to make sure you are the actual owner of said motorcycle and that you did not steal it one night while you were jacked up on heroine!LOL

Assuming you are the owner of said motrocycle, Question #1) Do you have an MF AGM battery? if not get one ASAP. #2) Are you getting power to lights, Gauges, Ect.? #3) Is your battery fully charged and showing voltage around12.4-12.7v? #4) Is the bike in neutral when trying to start? If the answer is yes to #2 , #3, and #4) lets proceed to the next step.

Check your fuses behind the left side cover beside the battery, make sure all fuses are good. Remove the right side cover beside the battery so we have access to the starter relay. Check, clean and tighten battery connections, battery to frame ground, battery to solenoid positive lead, solenoid to starter lead, and ground to engine ground lead.

If still no start, remove the 2-wire connector to the starter relay/solenoid (white w/red stripe and black w/yellow stripe) This will bypass the ignition switch, on/off switch and starter button. Use a wire or screwdriver to jump the connection between the two terminals. If still no start or no clicking from the relay, the relay is probably bad. Next, slide back the rubber covers on the leads at the relay/solenoid, turn the key to the on position and use a screwdriver to bridge the connection between the lugs.

If the starter does not crank get a beer and a set of jumper cables. Open the beer and drink, slide back the rubber boot on the starter cable and connect the + cable to the + battery terminal. Touch the other end of the + cable to the lug on the starter. If it turns over your relay is toast, if it does not turn over you starter is probably siezed from sitting. Don't worry no big deal just get back to us and we can go from here.

FLUX CAPACITOR

http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main...products_id=28

MF AGM battery

http://www.batterymart.com/p-Big-Cra...L-Battery.html


85 VN700 "Old Yella"

REBUILT ENGINE
CUSTOM PAINT
VANCE & HINES CRUZERS
EAR SHAVED AND RE-JETTED W/K&N'S
DUNLOP ELITE K591 FRONT & REAR
VOLTMETER
SYNTHETIC BRAKE FLUID
SYNTHETIC OIL & GEAR LUBE
PLEXISTAR 2 WINDSHIELD
SPLINES LUBED
ACCT'S GREASED W/TOC SPRINGS
COASTERD
LEATHER SADDLE BAGS
LEATHER TOOL AND ROLL BAG
PICKUP COILS GAPPED AT .018"
NGK CAP, WIRES, IRIDUMS
BARNETT FRICTION PLATES & SPRINGS
CUSTOM GRIPS, MIRRORS, LEVERS
ORIGINAL STATOR & R/R 14.5v
DEKA MF AGM ETX15L

Best Auto/Moto Insurance | Motorcycle Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

Last edited by lance328; 01-16-2009 at 11:44 PM.
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-16-2009, 07:06 AM
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Hey, Kirk! Welcome back! Sorry it's under less-than-ideal circumstances, but I think lance328 has you on the right trouble-shooting path. If it turns out to be your relay, give a shout. Got a few spares sitting around.

C
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-16-2009, 09:47 AM
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Ok, had to laugh at Lance.

No offense to CF, as he is a proven member here.

But over on the quad forum, it's amazing how many times a first post starts with, "I lost my keys, and need know how to hot wire my quad".

Global warming? So what if my kids never see a polar bear. I never saw a dinosaur and I'm ok.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-19-2009, 09:04 PM Thread Starter
 
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Blood and urine samples have been taken and are on the way to the lab. Thanks for the check list. I am currently going to school and working full time but will try to squeeze some time in this weekend to work on the check list

Thanks for the warm welcome Cindy, things have been busy and I don't get to stop in as much as I would like to. I need to get my bike back up and running, I am going through major withdrawls lol.

BTW, The flux capaciter is on backorder but will have it soon!!!

Last edited by Cardinal Fang; 01-19-2009 at 09:08 PM.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-19-2009, 10:51 PM
 
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do you have a volt meter to check the volts on the batter??? i had a good 12 volts and the battery was shot... it would crank once and then nothing... just figure id say start wth the basics.... makes it easier...
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-20-2009, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
 
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I forgot to put this in my original post. The last month before I had to stop riding, every once in a while when I would hit the ignition switch nothing would happen (like now) and I would turn the key off then back on and it would start like it should. I can't believe I forgot to include this.

I am sure this makes a difference. Anyways my battery is fully charged though i don't have a volt meter to verify it but I charged it lastnight. My lights work (not headlight because I can't get the bike to turn over.) and my gauges work.
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-20-2009, 07:41 PM
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I'd start with cleaning all the contacts in the ignition switch or just replace it. Have you checked to be sure all ground wires are tight?

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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-20-2009, 07:54 PM
 
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like i said... i would get a volt meter cuz like i said my bike had tthe same problem... the lights turnsignals ctc. will work but there isnt enough amps to turn the starter... thats the problem that im having with my car... try to jupm it and get it started that way.. if you can jump it its most likely a bad battery... if it doesnt jump at all then you have a whole other electrical issure on your hands...
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-21-2009, 03:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cardinal Fang View Post
I forgot to put this in my original post. The last month before I had to stop riding, every once in a while when I would hit the ignition switch nothing would happen (like now) and I would turn the key off then back on and it would start like it should. I can't believe I forgot to include this.

I am sure this makes a difference. Anyways my battery is fully charged though i don't have a volt meter to verify it but I charged it lastnight. My lights work (not headlight because I can't get the bike to turn over.) and my gauges work.
That is good to know, I would still go through the check list before replacing the switch.


85 VN700 "Old Yella"

REBUILT ENGINE
CUSTOM PAINT
VANCE & HINES CRUZERS
EAR SHAVED AND RE-JETTED W/K&N'S
DUNLOP ELITE K591 FRONT & REAR
VOLTMETER
SYNTHETIC BRAKE FLUID
SYNTHETIC OIL & GEAR LUBE
PLEXISTAR 2 WINDSHIELD
SPLINES LUBED
ACCT'S GREASED W/TOC SPRINGS
COASTERD
LEATHER SADDLE BAGS
LEATHER TOOL AND ROLL BAG
PICKUP COILS GAPPED AT .018"
NGK CAP, WIRES, IRIDUMS
BARNETT FRICTION PLATES & SPRINGS
CUSTOM GRIPS, MIRRORS, LEVERS
ORIGINAL STATOR & R/R 14.5v
DEKA MF AGM ETX15L

Best Auto/Moto Insurance | Motorcycle Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
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