stator wire - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-04-2017, 03:23 PM Thread Starter
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Question stator wire

well still trying to find out why one of my stator wire's burnt at the R/R plug.I ordered a new R/R and went out to check witch wire had the black on it and sure enough it's the a2 wire.is this what happens when the R/R over heats?

ok when i tested my stator wire's to ground my meter read 0 lol now I feel dumb but is that infinity?

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Last edited by vullcan22; 07-04-2017 at 03:45 PM.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-04-2017, 05:40 PM
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The 3 yellow wires A1-A3 are interchangeable. Wires usually burn at the plugs because of a bad connection. Bad Cxn -> high resistance -> heat. I've even had a loose battery terminal melt the post off a new battery.

Clean all of the terminals to bright metal and apply dielectric/bulb grease.

The reading depends your meter, setting, and range. Generally 0, L, or 0L means it's below the current setting range or zero resistance (shorted). Infinite resistance is "1" on all of my meters.

If you're really getting 0 Ohms resistance, you've got one of 3 coils shorted to ground and so you'll lose most of your 3 phase charging capacity.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-04-2017, 06:16 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hexadecimus View Post
The 3 yellow wires A1-A3 are interchangeable. Wires usually burn at the plugs because of a bad connection. Bad Cxn -> high resistance -> heat. I've even had a loose battery terminal melt the post off a new battery.

Clean all of the terminals to bright metal and apply dielectric/bulb grease.

The reading depends your meter, setting, and range. Generally 0, L, or 0L means it's below the current setting range or zero resistance (shorted). Infinite resistance is "1" on all of my meters.

If you're really getting 0 Ohms resistance, you've got one of 3 coils shorted to ground and so you'll lose most of your 3 phase charging capacity.
so my stator is bad?I haven't tested the ac volts yet waiting for my R/R to come in the mail.I'm freaking out just bought the bike in march with 1,400 mile on it been running strong 2 days be4 my volts dropped on my meter it ran hotter then it had be4 not sure if it had anything to do with this.

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-04-2017, 06:28 PM
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OL means there's no connection. OL = Open Loop, no continuity.

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-04-2017, 08:20 PM
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no, burned connections does NOT mean bad stator. it means a bad connection (#1), or a problem in the regulator that caused excess current draw on that leg (#2).

fix the connection issue, replace regulator if needed due to burned connection or internal failure, and see what it does...

Bad stator is definately more work involved than fixing the other stuff first.

example: my regulator failed 2 yrs before my stator did.. I had all the parts to do the stator at same time as regulator, but I changed regulator, and found out it fixed the issue at that time. My stator did fail eventually, but I got 2 yrs of riding before I needed to change it

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-04-2017, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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oh sweet I'm driving my self crazy!my plan is to get the a2 wire out of the plug and clean it up put it back and try the new R/R should be here be4 saturday.thank you

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-18-2017, 12:44 AM Thread Starter
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well it was the stator and R/R I cut the frame and put slugs in the down tube and the motor guard also bolts them together.the bottom of the frame we did it like the other side like the cradle with the flat ends that bolt together so now I just unbolt and have easy access to stator.first R/R I got was bad or I burnt it out trying it with other stator so I ordered another but just went with the oem gonna relocate it so it stays cool.did the stator and frame mod in 8 hours.I'm a certified welder thats what i do for living so it is stronger then it was befor.kawasaki should of done this in the first place just wanted to let you guys know how it turned out thanks for all the help.

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-18-2017, 10:28 AM
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-18-2017, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vullcan22 View Post
I cut the frame and put slugs in the down tube and the motor guard also bolts them together.the bottom of the frame we did it like the other side like the cradle with the flat ends that bolt together so now I just unbolt and have easy access to stator.
Brave man. Curious to know how this works out for you long term, because most of us were scared away from trying to cut the frame on that side. Ya know -- dire warnings about weakening the frame to the point of the bike being unsafe. As a previous poster asked/begged, pics please :-).
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