How to track down a short? - Page 2 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 08:08 AM
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 10:31 PM Thread Starter
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Well crap. Not the R/R. Replaced it, but still there's a short. So it's somewhere in the main circuit. Just have to figure out how to track it down. Either that, or disconnect the battery whenever I park it.

Could it be the ignition? Whether the key is in "on", "off", or "park", current is flowing thru the system.

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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 12:25 AM
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So the main fuse or the rr will kill the draw? If that's the case the wiring to the rr may be wrecked if a used rr doesn't resolve the issue.

May be worth putting a mofet or series rr in there. $70 or so for a used Polaris 800 or fz09 rr, Futurama connectors, a battery tender lead with a 30 amp fuse installed and a little bit of crimping and soldering is all it takes
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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-24-2017, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
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New element: if I leave everything else connected, and disconnect any single lead from the stator, the voltage drops to 0.59. Connect it again, and I get 12.32. So since a new R/R didn't fix it, does that mean the short is in the nearly new stator? I did the Tuxedo Mod, so did I possibly screw something up putting that in? Gonna open that tomorrow to see if I can see anything.


'95 Vulcan 750 - Purchased 8/2003 w/ 21,124 miles - passed 50K 9/3/15
* VN900 seat * Daytona handlebar * Converted ACCTs to MCCTs * Relocated R/R * Drilled clutch basket * Coastered * Repainted *

Last edited by DaveT319; 05-25-2017 at 01:34 AM.
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-25-2017, 01:20 PM
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Check the stator for shorting by checking resistance or continuity between the stator leads and a shiny bolt on the engine. If the resistance is anything other than OL or infinite, or you have continuity between the points, you have a short from the stator to the engine.

Last edited by ubertalldude; 05-25-2017 at 01:23 PM. Reason: continuity check also works for this check
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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-25-2017, 01:45 PM
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ok, first off, you have meter on volts and looks like its in series with the positive lead.. That not how to measure volts, thats for measuring current (series connection).

if you trying to measure voltage, you need positive cable connected to battery

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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-25-2017, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michiganteddybear View Post
ok, first off, you have meter on volts and looks like its in series with the positive lead.. That not how to measure volts, thats for measuring current (series connection).

if you trying to measure voltage, you need positive cable connected to battery
No, that's how I'm checking for a short. The key is off, but I'm still getting current coming around to the positive side, which gets completed via the meter. I'm not checking the stator output. Im trying to find why my last battery drained while just sitting there in the bike.

'95 Vulcan 750 - Purchased 8/2003 w/ 21,124 miles - passed 50K 9/3/15
* VN900 seat * Daytona handlebar * Converted ACCTs to MCCTs * Relocated R/R * Drilled clutch basket * Coastered * Repainted *
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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-25-2017, 04:07 PM
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Draw would be measured in amps/milliamps as it would be drawing current. Measuring volts is a bit confusing, try measuring the current draw with the stator connected vs disconnected, that will tell you if you have parasitic drain.

Another thing to do is to test if the stator is shorting out to the engine case like I mentioned earlier. Test for continuity or resistance between a stator wire and the motor.
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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-25-2017, 04:38 PM
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I am going to go out on a limb here, and based on how the meter will function connected like that, on volts setting, that the R/R is shorted/fried, and probably the stator as well.

and before anyone chimes in and says that the pics show the correct way to check for the issue, I will let it be known, I have been doing electrical/electronic repair for in excess of 30 years..

As uber has said, you must have the meter on amps/milliamps to determine if you have a current drain, your connections are correct, just in wrong mode on meter

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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-25-2017, 04:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michiganteddybear View Post
I am going to go out on a limb here, and based on how the meter will function connected like that, on volts setting, that the R/R is shorted/fried, and probably the stator as well.

and before anyone chimes in and says that the pics show the correct way to check for the issue, I will let it be known, I have been doing electrical/electronic repair for in excess of 30 years..

As uber has said, you must have the meter on amps/milliamps to determine if you have a current drain, your connections are correct, just in wrong mode on meter
Not the R/R, bought a new one thinking that was bad, and same results with the new one.

As far as the current draw goes, it shouldn't matter which setting I have, right? If I have what should be an open circuit, but it's actually closed, it will show battery voltage thru that circuit? An open circuit will be 0 volts; a closed circuit will show 12-something.

'95 Vulcan 750 - Purchased 8/2003 w/ 21,124 miles - passed 50K 9/3/15
* VN900 seat * Daytona handlebar * Converted ACCTs to MCCTs * Relocated R/R * Drilled clutch basket * Coastered * Repainted *
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