Headlight, Tach, And Key issues - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-04-2008, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
ryn
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Headlight, Tach, And Key issues

Okay I have a few small things to finish up before I can ride this thing (and fortunately for me in Florida, Winter shouldn't interfere too much with that)

1. My headlight doesn't turn on. The PO wired a switch to the empty leads in the bucket and it works that way but only brights. I have replaced the bulb, the RLU, and tried moving the blue wire at the junction box. No dice. I have however noticed that occasionally the white gauge light comes on if that means anything. But not all the time. Anyone have any ideas?

2. My tach stopped working after I replaced the stator. My guess is I disconnected a wire somewhere, Where/what should I look for?

3. I've noticed my key has 5 positions it kinda clicks into. 3 of which allow me to remove the key. I'd say it stops at 9 o'clock, 11 o'clock, 1 o'clock is the run postion with all lights on and she will start, 2 o'clock is the brake running light only no starting. and 3 o'clock allows me to remove the key again. What would be normal?

Thanks
-ryan
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-04-2008, 10:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryn View Post
Okay I have a few small things to finish up before I can ride this thing (and fortunately for me in Florida, Winter shouldn't interfere too much with that)

1. My headlight doesn't turn on. The PO wired a switch to the empty leads in the bucket and it works that way but only brights. I have replaced the bulb, the RLU, and tried moving the blue wire at the junction box. No dice. I have however noticed that occasionally the white gauge light comes on if that means anything. But not all the time. Anyone have any ideas?

2. My tach stopped working after I replaced the stator. My guess is I disconnected a wire somewhere, Where/what should I look for?

3. I've noticed my key has 5 positions it kinda clicks into. 3 of which allow me to remove the key. I'd say it stops at 9 o'clock, 11 o'clock, 1 o'clock is the run postion with all lights on and she will start, 2 o'clock is the brake running light only no starting. and 3 o'clock allows me to remove the key again. What would be normal?

Thanks
-ryan
Normal key position is 1 o'clock. Turn wheel all the way to the left and turn key to 9 o'clock remove key, this locks the steering when parked. Don't worry about the rest.

The tach runs off the front coil, make sure all connections are clean and tight. Pay special attention to the motor, chassis, and battery ground. Check all fuses, connections in H/L bucket and behind the neck covers.


Check the contacts inside the H/L switch and all connections. Also check and clean start button contact, the H/L is not supposed to come on until you start engine. Good Luck


85 VN700 "Old Yella"

REBUILT ENGINE
CUSTOM PAINT
VANCE & HINES CRUZERS
EAR SHAVED AND RE-JETTED W/K&N'S
DUNLOP ELITE K591 FRONT & REAR
VOLTMETER
SYNTHETIC BRAKE FLUID
SYNTHETIC OIL & GEAR LUBE
PLEXISTAR 2 WINDSHIELD
SPLINES LUBED
ACCT'S GREASED W/TOC SPRINGS
COASTERD
LEATHER SADDLE BAGS
LEATHER TOOL AND ROLL BAG
PICKUP COILS GAPPED AT .018"
NGK CAP, WIRES, IRIDUMS
BARNETT FRICTION PLATES & SPRINGS
CUSTOM GRIPS, MIRRORS, LEVERS
ORIGINAL STATOR & R/R 14.5v
DEKA MF AGM ETX15L

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Last edited by lance328; 12-04-2008 at 10:19 PM.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-06-2008, 02:30 AM
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For your tac issue, search the forum...I helped another guy with the same problem...come to find out his front coil wasn't firing....had a broken wire off of the pickup coil assembly....start checking there.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-06-2008, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slimvulcanrider View Post
For your tac issue, search the forum...I helped another guy with the same problem...come to find out his front coil wasn't firing....had a broken wire off of the pickup coil assembly....start checking there.
Dumb question: Could this condition affect only the tach and still allow the bike (seems to) to run normally?

86' Vulcan, Stock & Lovin it!
Stator, R/R, splines lubed, ACCT's repl. at 25,200
Just turned 29,000 mi.

95' Vulcan, all stock, 9,700 mi.

John Spangler
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-06-2008, 12:56 PM
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if the tac isn't working then the front cylinder is more than likely not firing...check for spark on the front cylinder...when one cylinder doesn't fire the bike seams to run ok...once the second cylinder fires you will notice a huge power increase. Here is the link to one of the threads.

here is the cunclusion to the problem described in the first link:
Quote:
Originally Posted by PoggiPj View Post
Yep. As soon as the mechanic heard that the PO had hit a deer, and that I changed out the tach, he focused his attention right on the front end. He found that I had pinched the signal wire under the bracket, and there was a splice inside of the tach grounding out. If I understand correctly, the ignitor signals the coil to "break" by grounding the signal, but my signal wire was permanently grounded.

I learned an exensive but valuable lesson in problem determination, and also just because I installed the tach, doesn't mean I didn't introduce a problem.
It can be found HERE

Tachometer Not Registering
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-06-2008, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slimvulcanrider View Post
if the tac isn't working then the front cylinder is more than likely not firing...check for spark on the front cylinder...when one cylinder doesn't fire the bike seams to run ok...once the second cylinder fires you will notice a huge power increase. Here is the link to one of the threads.

here is the cunclusion to the problem described in the first link:


It can be found HERE

Tachometer Not Registering

I had looked over some of those threads before I posted, but I assumed since the bike runs decent both cylinders were firing. But coming to think of it, when it did back fire flames only came out of one side, its not as quick as it once was, and my tank of fuel lasted way less than 100 miles. After the game I'll go out and see if I can't figure out whats wrong. I know the Tach used to work, so maybe its just a wire or something when I had to tilt the motor for the stator.

Thanks for the help. I'll be sure to post my findings
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-21-2008, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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Well the bike was running on the rear cylinder only. After swapping coils, checking for shorts, and tracing everything I could, I found what I assumed was a short from the ignitor to the front coil. I made a jumper wire and still nothing (my multimeter got fried I guess). So this morning I went and pulled the cover to looks at the pickup coils. The bottom one had a wire broken off. I touched the other coils wires one with less pressure than I touch my keyboards keys and that wire broke. I'm surprised the vibration didn't finish that one off. I'm going to try to get the wires back in the coils, but if that doesn't work is it acceptable to splice wires together under the stator cover? Because it looks like the coils are one unit and need the inside cover removed to run the wires thru. And lets just say I don't want to do that again if I don't have to.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-21-2008, 03:03 PM
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when you splice the wires inside the cover...use solder... not crimp connectors...and use a healthy amount of heatshrink... since there is oil inside the stator housing you don't want the oil to travel up the wires and out.....but to answer your question..Yes you can...just take your time
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-14-2009, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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Well I got some pickup coils spliced in, and now I get spark on all 4 plugs. Just couldn't get her running tonight. It might have been the cold (well for you northerners "cool" @ 50) and the dieing battery. I'll charge it tomorrow and try again. But one thing I'm unsure of is which pick coil goes where? Does the pickup coil with the red wire go on top or on bottom? when I removed the old pickups the wires just fell out so I didn't have the chance to notate where they belong. I made a jumper wire to trade places with the Dark Green and Black wires on the coils, assuming that would be the only wire that really matters is the pickups were reversed. I currently have the red wire on the top .
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-17-2009, 04:17 AM
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Did you get it running?


85 VN700 "Old Yella"

REBUILT ENGINE
CUSTOM PAINT
VANCE & HINES CRUZERS
EAR SHAVED AND RE-JETTED W/K&N'S
DUNLOP ELITE K591 FRONT & REAR
VOLTMETER
SYNTHETIC BRAKE FLUID
SYNTHETIC OIL & GEAR LUBE
PLEXISTAR 2 WINDSHIELD
SPLINES LUBED
ACCT'S GREASED W/TOC SPRINGS
COASTERD
LEATHER SADDLE BAGS
LEATHER TOOL AND ROLL BAG
PICKUP COILS GAPPED AT .018"
NGK CAP, WIRES, IRIDUMS
BARNETT FRICTION PLATES & SPRINGS
CUSTOM GRIPS, MIRRORS, LEVERS
ORIGINAL STATOR & R/R 14.5v
DEKA MF AGM ETX15L

Best Auto/Moto Insurance | Motorcycle Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
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