splicing in a fused volt meter for actual voltage post ignition switch - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
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splicing in a fused volt meter for actual voltage post ignition switch

I bought this volt meter\usb charger waterproof deal. It has a switch on the back and comes within inline fuse. Cool. it was like $9 shipped months back.

https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Ch...=voltmeter+usb

So...I obviously could connect straight to battery with the on\off switch BUT I am wondering if any of the accessory wiring would give true battery voltage so I could forgo using the switch. I understand connecting to the headlight just gives a lower than true voltage.

There's a bunch of threads of the subject - I just don't understand if any of the wires or relay would have actual voltage or if the difference you just remember is a constant difference or changes based on load, hi-beam etc.,

When it comes to wiring - I'm a little dumb. I think I need a 'connect it the purple' wire type direction.

2002 vn750
AGM battery, Shinko 230 tires oversized front
Ear shaved - k&n pods, drilled clutch basket
MCCT
40/138 jetting

If I can split a case and make it work - you can too!
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017, 09:16 PM
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Good timing on your thread as I also want to know the same basic info for a voltage meter I have still coming (no fuse or switch). Additionally, I will be wiring up an adapter that the GPS will utilize as per the old sticky thread that ASBRAND made a few years back. But I want to do that and the voltage meter at the same time (not same place). I'm not concerned about the adapter part of the project but where to power the voltage meter is a question that I, too, still have after reading the myriad of thread entries saying here or there. A more-electrically minded person, or two, will hopefully answer our mutual question.

TOC MCCTs
Saddlebags, hard mounted
Fork mounted tool bag (now hard mounted)
Relocated rear turn signals
LED turn signals, brake lights and running lights
LED license plate frame
Engine Guard and Highway pegs
National Cycles Low Boy Heavy Duty windshield
Home made lowers (nice)
Custom seat (made by a local guy)
Iridium plugs (DPR7EIX-9)
Shenko 230 Tour Master tires at 11,123 miles
Splines lubed at 11,123 miles
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017, 09:58 PM
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I can't offer a lot on the accessory wire or the headlight bucket wire, I've never tested those. But those wires have to be close to battery voltage or they would be almost useless for anything but a light.

Have mine connected to the battery and I still see fluctuations with turn signals, high/low beam, etc. It's the same in almost any vehicle.

100% accuracy on voltage isn't so important as long as you can see that it's charging. For instance, you wouldn't want to leave home for a 100 mile trip if you see the voltage is lower than when the bike wasn't running. Or, you're riding along and see the voltage has dropped into a discharge reading, then you know it's time to head home instead of doing that extra 50 miles. Either wire (acc. or bucket) should be close enough to monitor the charging, unless we start a stator output contest.

I'd say hook it up where you want to, you can always change it if not happy. I like going to the battery, but if you want it switched by the key, one of the other two are the options you have. That inline fuse makes it nice for a direct battery connection.

One problem with switching through the key, you can't charge a phone or use a device without having the key on. You can probably charge phones for days before the battery would be dead.

Find your favorite hot wire, positive goes there. The ground can go anywhere there is a ground, a bolt almost anywhere will be grounded, unless it's threaded into plastic. Any additional switching, just needs one wire to pass though the switch, and that can be a hot or ground. Mine is switched on the ground side, it just makes one less wire that can get shorted out.
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2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017, 10:42 PM Thread Starter
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thats helpful - thanks!

according to KM in post below, the accessory leads are actually live and not tied to ignition switch which I didn't realize. I assumed accessory leads were like headlight with less load.

https://www.vn750.com/forum/162727-post65.html

2002 vn750
AGM battery, Shinko 230 tires oversized front
Ear shaved - k&n pods, drilled clutch basket
MCCT
40/138 jetting

If I can split a case and make it work - you can too!
Forum pictures:http://s150.photobucket.com/user/Gid...?sort=3&page=1

Last edited by gidaeon; 04-01-2017 at 11:00 PM.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017, 10:53 PM
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by gidaeon View Post
thats helpful - thanks!
You're quite welcome.

If someone could clarify......

Isn't one of the wire locations hot all the time? The headlight bucket or the accessory wire under the right side cover?

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017, 11:01 PM Thread Starter
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apparently both according to post I linked above.

2002 vn750
AGM battery, Shinko 230 tires oversized front
Ear shaved - k&n pods, drilled clutch basket
MCCT
40/138 jetting

If I can split a case and make it work - you can too!
Forum pictures:http://s150.photobucket.com/user/Gid...?sort=3&page=1
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017, 11:49 PM
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Yes, both are hot all the time. I've tested mine recently. I am adding a bunch of LEDs, volt meter and USB port as soon as it gets warm enough for long enough, around here.

If you want it to turn on and off with the ignition then all you need is a SPST relay switch. They are cheap and easy to use.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 12:58 AM
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Perhaps I am missing the point on a simple concept. When you open the physical headlight bucket/housing, (which I haven't done yet to see) there is one set of wiring going to the headlight, (which is being referred to as the headlight bucket) and one other set of wiring referred to as the accessary wires (not talking about any wiring under the right side cover). Is this correct? I can see how the accessary wires can be hot all the time but the headlight too? The headlight is controlled by the ignition switch is it not?

TOC MCCTs
Saddlebags, hard mounted
Fork mounted tool bag (now hard mounted)
Relocated rear turn signals
LED turn signals, brake lights and running lights
LED license plate frame
Engine Guard and Highway pegs
National Cycles Low Boy Heavy Duty windshield
Home made lowers (nice)
Custom seat (made by a local guy)
Iridium plugs (DPR7EIX-9)
Shenko 230 Tour Master tires at 11,123 miles
Splines lubed at 11,123 miles
Luggage rack
Light bar with LED lights
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 01:08 AM
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I think I missed that the discussion above was speaking of both ACCESSORY sets as being live all the time. If that's the case I understand that. The headlight is switched by the ignition key. I was getting confused.
Thorn likes this.

TOC MCCTs
Saddlebags, hard mounted
Fork mounted tool bag (now hard mounted)
Relocated rear turn signals
LED turn signals, brake lights and running lights
LED license plate frame
Engine Guard and Highway pegs
National Cycles Low Boy Heavy Duty windshield
Home made lowers (nice)
Custom seat (made by a local guy)
Iridium plugs (DPR7EIX-9)
Shenko 230 Tour Master tires at 11,123 miles
Splines lubed at 11,123 miles
Luggage rack
Light bar with LED lights
Chris and Shim is offline  
post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 01:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris and Shim View Post
Perhaps I am missing the point on a simple concept. When you open the physical headlight bucket/housing, (which I haven't done yet to see) there is one set of wiring going to the headlight, (which is being referred to as the headlight bucket) and one other set of wiring referred to as the accessary wires (not talking about any wiring under the right side cover). Is this correct? I can see how the accessary wires can be hot all the time but the headlight too? The headlight is controlled by the ignition switch is it not?
If the headlight hasn't had the blue wire mod, it only gets power after the engine starts.

If the blue wire mod is done, the headlight gets power as soon as the key is turned on.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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