Melted r/r Connection - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Where does this wire go?
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-24-2008, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
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Unhappy Melted r/r Connection

Anybody have any idea what could cause a r/r connection to get so hot that it melts?



A little history:

I bought the bike almost 2 years ago, it left me stranded a couple of times and I finally traced the problem to the r/r. I replaced and relocated the r/r, replaced the battery with a maintenance free AGM battery.

A couple of weeks ago I noticed it was starting to get a little sluggish when I started it up. I checked the r/r connection and cleaned it. I checked the ground connection from the battery to the frame, and checked the battery terminals. Everything looked good but I was still having issues. I took the battery off and had it load tested....no bueno, so I replaced the battary with another sealed, maintenance free AGM battery. Everything's peachy until one day last week on the way to work I could tell that the charging system wasn't working (the headlight indicator light puts out a little light when everything's working right) so I turned around and jumped in the Cage. While checking everything out this weekend I found the connection for the r/r was toast, literally. It looks like it was just one wire that overheated, and according to some stuff I found on-line it was the ground connection.

Any thoughts? Is my r/r toast again or could this be something else entirely?


My plan is to cut off the connector and just splice the wires directly together, assuming that there's no other issues. Has anybody done this? Are there any potential problems that this could cause?

I smile 'cause I don't know what the h*ll is going on.

Last edited by BigT; 11-24-2008 at 03:02 PM.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-24-2008, 01:33 PM
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Ussually it is a bad connection. When the electrons go from one wire to the other through a bad connection they cause heat. Clean and resolder the connection. Hope this helps you. Sometimes the connector are not tight on each other.

02 honda sabre 1100
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-24-2008, 04:23 PM
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If you do not have one a good thing to have on your bike is a voltage meter. Some of the problems can be caught before thing really get bad. When the R+R is acting up or the charging is wrong it will show on the meter. I had a connector that started to melt also and the wires would get pretty hot. Also the R+R was getting hot also on a good ride, but with meter you can usually see that the R+R would be over charging. Mine at times was going to 15.5 or higher, at one point on one ride it jumped to 16 volts. It was like many say your connection get bad or the R+R startes to go. The volt meter gives you a heads up when things start to go wrong. Give it a try they are quit easy to install and not expensive at all.

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-24-2008, 08:27 PM
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I had the same problem. If the wires are in the stock position they are only an inch from the exhaust manifold. I soldered in some extensions and moved them away from the manifold and haven't had any problems since.

Ron from Jersey
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-01-2008, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
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Melted r/r saga: Chapter 2

Update/Chapter 2

I did some testing on the stator and it seems to be good, or at least putting out some voltage and I can't find a short to ground anywhere. Me being multimeter challenged, the tests that I did on the r/r were inconclusive at best, but I went ahead and spliced the wires directly to the r/r (it's not the stock r/r, it's the elextrex one with ~3" of wires before the male end of the connector) with shrink wrap connectors. I started her up and checked the output at the battery and WOW. I was getting 18.5v @ 2500 rpm. I know that's not right.

Methinks that the r/r is bad, but I thought I'd see what the rest of you think.

I smile 'cause I don't know what the h*ll is going on.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-01-2008, 10:51 AM
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Yeah, that reading is too high; the battery is going to "cook".
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-01-2008, 04:02 PM Thread Starter
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Sound like the r/r? My logic says that too much voltage to the battery should be caused by a r/r not regulating like it's supposed to. Sound about right?

I'm not too worried about the battery just yet. I just bought it and it's got a 1 year warranty. I don't want to do any damage to anything else.....like Mr. Stator.

I smile 'cause I don't know what the h*ll is going on.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-01-2008, 04:53 PM
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Sounds like the rectifier portion works fine while the regulator does not. The only time you should see that high of voltage output is when the battery is at minimal charge. At that point the whole charging system is in overdrive trying to recharge the battery.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-01-2008, 05:09 PM
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My mistake I guess, I always understood you never wanted more than 16 volts, and 16 or more is not good and will fry the battery, and it would run at high 13s or low/mid 14s for a low battery, possibly 15s.

Anyway, moving on, this is from a post in the Verses on how to check the R/R:

Quote:
- How to check out the R/R

If you have the Kawasaki Service Manual, you will find R/R checkout on page 15-18. If you don't I will list what is there for you. Quoted from the manual as much as possible: Regulator/Rectifier Inspection Remove the left side cover. Pull out the connector. Be sure to set the hand tester to the 100 ohm range and zero the meter(Not necessary on a digital meter) Check the resistance between the regulator/rectifier terminals as follows(there is a chart and picture in the manual which I cannot reproduce right now but I will try to put it in words for you)

A1 A2 A3 All Alternator Terminals --- --- --- Connector with pins facing you and notch at bottom --- --- ---

G M B G = Ground M = Monitor B = Battery --|__|-- (Hope that came across right)

Measure B to M - should read infinity

Measure B to G - should read infinity

Measure B to A1, A2, A3 - should read infinity

Measure M to B - should read > 10K ohm Measure

M to G - should read > 10K ohm

Measure M to A1, A2, A3 - should read > 10K ohm

Measure G to B - should read between 0.4 to 2K ohm

Measure G to M - should read between 1 to 5K ohm

Measure G to A1, A2, A3 - should read 0.2 to 0.6K ohm(200 to 600 ohm)

Measure A1, A2, A3 to B - should read 0.2 to 0.6K ohm(200 to 600 ohm)

Measure A1, A2, A3 to M - should read infinity

Measure A1, A2, A3 to G - should read infinity

If there is more resistance than the specified value, the unit has an open lead and must be replaced. Much less than this resistance means the unit is shorted, and must be replaced. Hope this helps someone out there. Dan Morgan
That information above came from a very long thread which can be viewed in whole by Clicking here- Reg/Rec/Stator.

Hope that helps.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-02-2008, 04:00 PM
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T, if you didn't live in such a hot place your bike wouldn't keep melting!!

"Shutting up rarely leads to anything bad"

Joe McAdoo
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-2004 Vulcan 1500 Classic 22000 miles
-1995 VN750 (Back home again!) 25000 miles
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