Battery or RR... - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
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Battery or RR...

update: After my EverStart battery died, I got a Yuasa charged it up last night and put it in the bike today, 12.8v after i charged it. At idle it was at 12.1v(using a hand held volt meter since i dont have one wired into the battery or anything on the bike.)

Kind of hard to hold the volt meter on the battery and rev the bike at the same time so i didn't do that, but i turned the bike off after about a minute and the battery was at 12.6v, rode it home(20 minute ride mostly highway) and checked the battery again soon as i turned the bike off, it was at 12.4-ish. After about an hour it was at 12.5-ish and now almost 8 hours later its sitting at 12.65v, so am i correct in assuming my RR is operating just fine and it was just the ****ty walmart battery that was my issue?

Last edited by Daniel Krueger; 03-26-2017 at 01:37 AM.
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 11:29 PM
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Paragraphs would help making that all easier to read.

You bought the wrong battery? Why?

You should check your charging volts...which you can do if you can get the bike started. If you're not getting 13.5 volts or more it won't matter what battery you have....
Could be the R/R or the stator if you're not getting a sufficient charge with the bike running (@ 3,000 rpms or more)

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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 11:37 PM Thread Starter
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Paragraphs would help making that all easier to read.

You bought the wrong battery? Why?

You should check your charging volts...which you can do if you can get the bike started. If you're not getting 13.5 volts or more it won't matter what battery you have....
Could be the R/R or the stator if you're not getting a sufficient charge with the bike running (@ 3,000 rpms or more)

I bought that battery because at the time its what i could afford and that was the battery it had in it when i bought it so i thought it was the correct one.

After i get the new battery I'm planning on checking the volts, Like I said the bike really hasn't had ANY use since the stator and RR got replaced since the impeller mech seal went very shortly after, and with how my dad explained how the bike was acting when the stator was going out and when it finally did i doubt its that. And im thinking the same with the RR but i've been wrong before. The bike was running fine all day and when i down shifted pulling into the parking lot and the RMP dropped below 3k is when it died, didn't stutter or anything just dead soon as it dropped to around or below 3k.

Cant check the volts till tomorrow when i get the correct battery, worst case till later this week since i took the battery back to walmart and got a refund since i thought it was just a **** battery and found out it wasn't the correct battery to begin with. Also i noticed when taking it back some of the cells were a dark brown and some where white, which is why im leaning more towards the battery got fried cuz it was to small rather than the RR being shot.
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 12:52 PM
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If the battery is good and all that has been replaced it's the ignition switch puck under the key. CLEAN IT. You people do not listen to me. Are you not entertained? DO I NOT ENTERTAIN YOU!

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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
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If the battery is good and all that has been replaced it's the ignition switch puck under the key. CLEAN IT. You people do not listen to me. Are you not entertained? DO I NOT ENTERTAIN YOU!
Puck should be good, replaced it year and a half ago and i also packed it with dielectric grease, but when i manage to get the bike home i'll also check that after i get the battery, which no shop around here has so time to order it online .....

"Yuasa High Performance Maintenance Free Battery - YTX14AHL-BS" is teh battery im planning on getting, thats the correct one right?
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 03:50 PM
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Yes, that's the correct battery.

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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 08:10 PM
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DO I NOT ENTERTAIN YOU!

On occasion. =)
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 01:37 AM Thread Starter
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updated first post...
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel Krueger View Post
update: After my EverStart battery died, I got a Yuasa charged it up last night and put it in the bike today, 12.8v after i charged it. At idle it was at 12.1v(using a hand held volt meter since i dont have one wired into the battery or anything on the bike.)

Kind of hard to hold the volt meter on the battery and rev the bike at the same time so i didn't do that, but i turned the bike off after about a minute and the battery was at 12.6v, rode it home(20 minute ride mostly highway) and checked the battery again soon as i turned the bike off, it was at 12.4-ish. After about an hour it was at 12.5-ish and now almost 8 hours later its sitting at 12.65v, so am i correct in assuming my RR is operating just fine and it was just the ****ty walmart battery that was my issue?
Your charging system isn't working at all. Should see at least 13-13.5v when the bike is idling.

12.4v on the battery is less than a full charge. Your battery actually rebounds after you turn the engine off, so it's draining the battery when running.

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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 11:11 AM Thread Starter
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Your charging system isn't working at all. Should see at least 13-13.5v when the bike is idling.

12.4v on the battery is less than a full charge. Your battery actually rebounds after you turn the engine off, so it's draining the battery when running.
I read that the charging system wont do anything at idle, 12.1v at idle is because the bike is running off the battery and the stator isn't doing anything untill 3k+, and i figured if the charging system wasn't working then the battery would be drained dead in just a few minutes. When the stator went thats what i was told the bike was doing, fully charge the battery and 5-10 mins later its completely dead.

But i know you know what you're talking about so if you say its not working its probably not that stator and RR has like not even 2 months ride time on it... i hope to god its just the RR and not the stator... that was a $700 bill when the stator **** the bed and like i said the one thats in now is brand new..... Time to read up on testing the RR and go from there....
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