Dead electrical at end of ride - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Electrical
Where does this wire go?
Includes Electrical mods, Lights, Stator,
Rectifier, Diagrams, etc

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  • 1 Post By OleDirtyDoc
  • 3 Post By niterider
  • 1 Post By Goofyfoot2001
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 11:59 PM Thread Starter
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Dead electrical at end of ride

Hi all,

I am a new member here and this is my second post after my intro.

I have had my '02 750 for a couple of weeks now and I have been using it as a commuter. After reading some other posts here, I can't say I am surprised, but I just had my first electrical problem.

All the way home from work, the bike was rough idling at every stop light, and it even died a couple times when I didn't give it throttle. I pulled in the clutch to coast in the driveway, and it completely died. No electrical at all, not even the headlight. I turned the ignition switch a few times, but couldn't get anything.

I went in to have dinner, came back out to check it. Battery was at 12.8v, no blown fuses, R/R didn't even feel warm. I tried turning it on again, and it fired right up!

I am guessing the problem must be a poor connection in the ignition switch. Any thoughts?

I am guessing that the R/R is not a problem because the battery was charged, is that a correct assumption? As a side note, I have been reading about the mosfet upgrade and was wondering if something like this might work: Mosfet Regulator Rectifier For Kawasaki VN 900 Vulcan / Z 750 1000 2003-2017 | eBay

Thanks, in advance, for any advice.

Dave

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 07:25 AM
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sounds like a dirty ignition switch

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 10:57 PM
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Yeah, intermittent power issues with a full charge is probably the switch... I never had that problem with mine, but I only rode it a couple years

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 07:49 PM
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I'm leaning towards a loose battery connection.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niterider View Post
I'm leaning towards a loose battery connection.
You know, that may have actually been it! The negative lead came off really easy. I have a couple of days off now, gonna experiment with riding it around before I go to all the trouble of tearing apart the ignition switch.

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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Well, just to be sure it wasn't an issue, I decided to take apart the ignition switch. The contacts and contact strips didn't look too bad, but I cleaned them with an eraser stick and contact cleaner anyway. I packed the back cover where the wires come in with dielectric grease, so hopefully that will keep it nice and clean for years. The solder joints still looked shiny so I didn't worry about reflowing them. In retrospect, that negative battery cable that wasn't snugged down was probably the real problem. Here is what the contact strip looked like when I got the switch opened.



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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 12:11 PM
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Mine didn't look bad either but cleaned anyway and then stretched the springs ever so slightly and never had the cut off issue again. Course then I bought a sporty and have never had to do anything else since :-) Fast too. Fastest in the world.
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